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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2 weeks ago I drove through a water crossing and there was a drop off in the water that I did not know of. Water came up to the hood and my engine shut off. I was towed out in about 5-10 minutes but the engine was hydro locked and wouldn't turn over so the guys that towed me out told me to pull the spark plugs and turn it over to shoot the water out. I did this on all the cylinder except for the first one I coulndt get the a/c compressor off. We managed to get the engine started but had to keep giving it gas for a while to stop it from shutting off and eventually it would idle but rough. I ended up driving it back home around 100 miles because I didn't have a choice on the way back it was a little tougher to shift, but was driving. Eventually it would start bucking a little randomly and my mpg's were terrible and I had a check engine light come on.

After getting back i got the left over water out of the first cylinder. I drained all the fluids, let it sit to dry some of the water out and put new oil in. Engine, tranny, transfer, diffs. Replaced the oil and air filter, plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor, and pvc filter. I started it up and got it tosrun but the idle was high and rough and still had a code for a tps. I replaced it and the idle went down but it still had rough idle and my check engine went out. I drove the jeep down the road and back about 15 minutes and it drives fine but still idles rough, the mpg was still terrible, and when you rev it puffs of black smoke come out the tailpipe. The jeep also smells bad. I'm thinking it's running rich. What do you think the problem/problems could be?

97 TJ, 4.0, 5 speed
 

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check for moisture under the distributor cap. often times it wouldn't even run if it was wet. but bad or weak spark could explain the rough idle and rich fuel not being burned thoroughly. unless you did take the time to seal it, the oem distributor cap is not waterproof.
 

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Although the IAC is sealed from moisture entering from the outside of the throttle body. it is not sealed from moisture entering from inside the throttle body.. Use compressed air to blow the moisture out of the IAC after you remove it from the throttle body.
 

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Do a compression test b-4 you spend any more money, you my have done more damage than you think. Hydro locking a cylinder can bend connecting rods or valve train components, can't compress a liquid. Been there done that! Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did the compression test today and i was only getting 60 psi in the first cylinder, and around 90 in the rest of them. My spark plugs are also covered in black soot. I also pulled a code PO171 after i put a new tps and cleaning the throttle body.
 

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Most likely you have a bent rod but also you could have a stuck injector that washed the cyl causing low comp and black plug.
 
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