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Discussion Starter #1
Well, that is to say, an Amazon seller. GPS & Radar Shop, according to Amazon.com.
It shipped in a plain brown cardboard box with a barcode indicating the product name and the word "New".
Upon opening the box, there is a harness that is intact and new looking. But the lockpick device is shipped in a plain manila envelope with instructions printed on plain white paper. On further inspection, the lockpick device has signs of prior installation. There are scratches that seem to have been attempted to be buffed out. (1st pic-top left dull area)There are scratches on the curved portion of the case that are easily visible.(2nd pic) There is also a sticker on the case that says, PASS OK 2015.
To top it off, a "Thank You" bag of Jelly Belly candies was included in the box.
Should I be alarmed?
1. It seems kind of a hokey packaging to begin with.
2. It strikes me odd that "NEW" would need to be specified on the box. Makes more sense to me to identify a reconditioned unit, not a new one. It's almost like someone tried too hard to be convincing.
I know I can send it back for a replacement, but what a PITA.
Am I being paranoid, here? My wife says I shouldn't take the chance of installing it...just in case it fries something.
Has anyone else, who ordered through Amazon, received a unit in this condition or in similar packaging? Or for that matter, directly from coastalEtech?
Thanks for any feedback!
 

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thats how i got mine direct from coastal electronics, packaged the same way. however my unit was new. i would return it to amazon and buy direct if you want to stay with the lockpick device. warranty is handled by the first retailer. so if you buy direct, you get "better" customer service (and it isn't all that good)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thats how i got mine direct from coastal electronics, packaged the same way. however my unit was new. i would return it to amazon and buy direct if you want to stay with the lockpick device. warranty is handled by the first retailer. so if you buy direct, you get "better" customer service (and it isn't all that good)
Thanks for the response. This is very helpful. Perhaps the unit was subjected to rough handling and is indeed new and suffered cosmetic blemishes only? Anyhow, I'll await any other responses.
Thanks again...
 

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btw, the instructions on the dip switches are misleading and confusing. do not follow the arrows for UP or ON/OFF. use the picture they have printed in the instructions as to which way is up. i can upload a photo of how the dip switches need to be for the jeep if you need.

when it's wrong, the jeep does weird things: wipers, dash lights, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
btw, the instructions on the dip switches are misleading and confusing. do not follow the arrows for UP or ON/OFF. use the picture they have printed in the instructions as to which way is up. i can upload a photo of how the dip switches need to be for the jeep if you need.

when it's wrong, the jeep does weird things: wipers, dash lights, etc...
Wow. That's great info. Thanks!
 

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As long as they have been around, the Lockpick packaging and assembly has the genuine "fly-by-night garage operation" feel but it works. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
can upload a photo of how the dip switches need to be for the jeep if you need.
Thanks,
Actually the printed info has clear photos included. I went to install the unit and although the lockpick functions appear in the menu options, the stupid camera doesn't seem to be working. The screen goes black after the "Check all surroundings" message and there is no image.
As far as I understand, the camera (Gino bullet type) is powered by the video input jack on the Lockpick. There is no need to provide any other power wire? The instructions allude to this...
The camera came in the black box that other Jeepers have had issues with.
It's already in my returns queue.
 

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Thanks,
Actually the printed info has clear photos included. I went to install the unit and although the lockpick functions appear in the menu options, the stupid camera doesn't seem to be working. The screen goes black after the "Check all surroundings" message and there is no image.
As far as I understand, the camera (Gino bullet type) is powered by the video input jack on the Lockpick. There is no need to provide any other power wire? The instructions allude to this...
The camera came in the black box that other Jeepers have had issues with.
It's already in my returns queue.
not necessarily. did you hook up the power leads to the camera? if so, then yes. if you did not hook up the power leads and only the yellow video cable, then the camera is not powered on.

i ran my cameras to switched ignition power so they are always on when the jeep is on. that way i can switch to any camera view mode without having to put it into reverse...
 

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Thanks,
Actually the printed info has clear photos included. I went to install the unit and although the lockpick functions appear in the menu options, the stupid camera doesn't seem to be working. The screen goes black after the "Check all surroundings" message and there is no image.
As far as I understand, the camera (Gino bullet type) is powered by the video input jack on the Lockpick. There is no need to provide any other power wire? The instructions allude to this...
The camera came in the black box that other Jeepers have had issues with.
It's already in my returns queue.
"Check All Surroundings" means it thinks you have side cameras. You just need to disable that option.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks everyone for the insightful replies. I indeed failed to use a secondary 2 wire (hot/ground) to power the cam from rear to head unit. I guess I assumed that the included wiring was sufficient.


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Thanks everyone for the insightful replies. I indeed failed to use a secondary 2 wire (hot/ground) to power the cam from rear to head unit. I guess I assumed that the included wiring was sufficient.


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Which brings me more or less full circle. Got the camera to 'work' both with the "reverse camera 12v out" and "switched ignition 12v out".
The image bounces constantly. I haven't run the wires permanently yet. This is all testing with the head unit hanging out.

I don't think it's a grounding issue since I can crimp in a nice solid connection and it's making good contact. I experimented to see what a faulty ground image would look like by loosening and fiddling with the ground wire, and the result is different.
I'm fairly certain the camera is bad.
What do all you gurus think?



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Which brings me more or less full circle. Got the camera to 'work' both with the "reverse camera 12v out" and "switched ignition 12v out".
The image bounces constantly. I haven't run the wires permanently yet. This is all testing with the head unit hanging out.

I don't think it's a grounding issue since I can crimp in a nice solid connection and it's making good contact. I experimented to see what a faulty ground image would look like by loosening and fiddling with the ground wire, and the result is different.
I'm fairly certain the camera is bad.
What do all you gurus think?



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is your camera NTSC or PAL? I bought a camera off amazon that was shipped from china and it was PAL. video bounced like crazy too. in the USA, all our video signals are NTSC. europe and the rest of the world like PAL.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
is your camera NTSC or PAL? I bought a camera off amazon that was shipped from china and it was PAL. video bounced like crazy too. in the USA, all our video signals are NTSC. europe and the rest of the world like PAL.
The Amazon description says this:
Product Name : Car Rear View Camera;Image sensor : 1/4" OV136 CCD Chip;Signal System : NTSC/PAL;Effective Pixel : NTSC: 728 x 582,PAL: 728 x 512;Minimum Illumination : 0.5 Lux


The product manual has a nomenclature guide, but there are no serial numbers to match to, on the cam or the box. ImageUploadedByAG Free1431623963.376195.jpg


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The Amazon description says this:
Product Name : Car Rear View Camera;Image sensor : 1/4" OV136 CCD Chip;Signal System : NTSC/PAL;Effective Pixel : NTSC: 728 x 582,PAL: 728 x 512;Minimum Illumination : 0.5 Lux


The product manual has a nomenclature guide, but there are no serial numbers to match to, on the cam or the box. View attachment 2182609


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my guess is that you have a PAL camera. i get that exact bouncing picture from my PAL camera from amazon too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
my guess is that you have a PAL camera. i get that exact bouncing picture from my PAL camera from amazon too.
I do believe you are correct. I just ordered a camera on eBay that says NTSC only. What I've found in my hours of searching is that all the flush mount minibullet cameras look identical. At least the example photos all look identical. I'm hoping the search is over...
 

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The Gino camera is terrible. It is hit or miss if you'll get one that works. Many, myself included, have not been able to use it with much success.
I think the big thread about the backup camera needs an edit to suggest a better camera.
 

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The Gino camera is terrible. It is hit or miss if you'll get one that works. Many, myself included, have not been able to use it with much success.
I think the big thread about the backup camera needs an edit to suggest a better camera.
look for camera's with the highest TV Lines (TVL). 380 tvl or less is useless. super grainy and overall horrible. 420 tvl is useable but still very grainy. 480 tvl is the minimum i would recommend. i have the pyle camera for my 2nd backup cam as the extreme close up on the spare tire and rear bumper angle. i'm using a BOYO 375HD license plate camera with 520 tvl as my main rear backup camera and it's very clear. picture is exceptional. huge difference between the 480 tvl and the 520 tvl.

i went through about 20 different cameras off amazon as they were easy to return. i tested them on my tv in the house and in the wrangler before i settled on which one i wanted to keep.
 
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