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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just got my kc lights and my husband is going to do the wireing, im not at home with the jeep now to look at it to decide were we are going to install the switch, so can some one please tell me the best place to run the wire through the fire wall , also does the end piece come off the dash so we can drill hole and install the switch? thank you for any imfo
 

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Yes the end piece comes off . There is a whole there with that expanable foam just use a coat hanger poke through tape wire on ( its a little tight) then just fill in hole with silicone or insulation
 

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The Bad Guy
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The side panel pops right off. Here's a picture with it off and where the wires go through the foam filled hole.



Here's a picture of the installed switch.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Perfect thank you guys. I'll get to work on it now.
 

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The Bad Guy
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Daggo....not a wirenut on a jeep install:bottom:
Here's what happened. I couldn't get the wire with the connector to stay on the effing coat hanger. I tried every way you could imagine, but kept pulling through an emty cost hanger. So I ended up cutting the connector off, pulling the wire through, and splicing them back together.
 

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The Bad Guy
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Hehehe, I can mail you a butt connector :)
As cleanly as possible in this forum, please explain what a "butt" connector is. My son is an electrician so wire nuts are practically everywhere.
 

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The Bad Guy
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23,234 Posts
Its a wiring connector that is open on both ends and gauge specific. Basically it joins the wire back together and the connector gets crimped on both sides to hold the wire in place.
Hmmm, I think I have some of those. Thanks.
 

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Solder and heat shrink are really the way to go..........;)
 

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Just a kid at heart...
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I agree too a certain extent, but here in the professional relm butt connectors are just fine if the correct tool is used to crimp um. I've been using them for over 30 years with no issues.

I use them, too. Depending on location, i use the plain ones, or the silicone filled ones for damp locations. But, solder and heatshrink is the best way to go, just not always practical.
 

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Commercial MemberX
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Actually the best way to go is don't have a broken connection :) The problem I see alot with soldering connections like that is most people don't know how to solder correctly and either use the wrong solder or create a bad solder joint. Also, if the shrink is not thick enough it could allow a frayed wire to poke through and short to ground.
 

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Just a kid at heart...
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14,315 Posts
Actually the best way to go is don't have a broken connection :) The problem I see alot with soldering connections like that is most people don't know how to solder correctly and either use the wrong solder or create a bad solder joint. Also, if the shrink is not thick enough it could allow a frayed wire to poke through and short to ground.
I use a spiral wrap and at least 2Xcut heat shrink. Again, it depends where it is going. I also tin and flux the connections.

I'm also using a PACE soldering station, so I know what my specs are. If I have to use a quick splice to get something going, I use it. Then go back and fix it later for a permanent fix.
 
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