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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If all I want is a 2"--2.5" lift for 33" tires... is a spacer lift bad?

Is it stupid to get a spacer lift? Does it retain factory warranty better than a full replacement suspension lift?

Daily driver so mainly a cosmetic reason than off-roading...
 

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It can be easier to switch back if there happened to be a warranty issue... a spacer kit obviously isn't as functional as longer springs... you will gain ride height but nothing else... which in your case might be just fine.

For the work though, it isn't much harder to do a 'real' lift.
 

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Is it stupid to get a spacer lift? Does it retain factory warranty better than a full replacement suspension lift?

Daily driver so mainly a cosmetic reason than off-roading...
Body lift? ... well I suppose so, but keep in mind if you use a body lift and you took it in for a leak they could blame your spacers. There's no easy answer and absolutely no way to predict what a dealer may say..

I personally favor a suspension lift over a body lift... but you know, YOLO.

.
 

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I had a 2 1/2 Teraflex spacer lift WITH shock extensions on my '12 JKUR and ran for a week in Moab last year. Couldn't believe how well it did!
 

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One question that you should consider when deciding on if you need a spacer or coil lift for 33s is if you are going to add any significant weight to the jeep like bumpers, winch, rails, skids, etc. I think you may be less likely to have a good spacer lift experience if you intend on adding lots of weight.
 

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Is it stupid to get a spacer lift? Does it retain factory warranty better than a full replacement suspension lift?

Daily driver so mainly a cosmetic reason than off-roading...
Your warranty question was answered in detail here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/installing-a-2-5-lift-voids-warranty-199089.html

If you're not considering a winch and steel armor/bumpers, and so long as you don't intend to do that much offroading, then no, a spacer lift isn't a bad idea.

It looks just as good as a coil lift, even if it doesn't perform the same way offroad or respond the same way to added weight.

In other words, if you're just looking for the jeep to look cool as a result of a lift and you don't want to add a bunch of heavy accessories, then a spacer lift is a fine idea.
 

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I just took 2.5" spacers on mine. I am running 33s, but I have added bumpers and the springs looked like they were starting to give. It rode fine before the bumper and winch, did a handful of mud runs, but no climbing. I'm looking to sell the spacers, PM me if your interested.
 

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If you are going to go to the time and trouble, I would go with the coil lift. Don't know why you would want the spacer lift. Just my thoughts.
 

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I'm going to go with a 2.5" spacer lift here soon, I don't plan on adding bumpers or armor anytime soon though. My plans for now is to remove the stock plastic bumper, mount my winch to the stock metal bumper, do the 2.5" lift and some rock sliders.
 

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I used a RC 2.5" spacer lift for my 35s because it was the least expensive way to do so. I am not planning on adding a heavy bumper/winch combo or any heavy armor. I am a big fan of lightweight options.

ExpeditionOne makes a super lightweight bumper that actually looks good. That and a synthetic line winch and I should be fine with just spacers. If not, I can always upgrade the suspension and sell the spacer lift.

As for armor, I will wait for Savvy to release some aluminum goodies.
 

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I just installed a Teraflex Leveling Kit to my daily driver. Rides and drives great. Before and after pictures in my Garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So no lift needed for DuraTrac's on 32" but lift would be needed for the 33" due to spacing it requires on rims?
 

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So no lift needed for DuraTrac's on 32" but lift would be needed for the 33" due to spacing it requires on rims?
The thing to note is that there can be TWO types of "rubbing" issues.

The first is height. A tire can be too tall. For that, you need a lift or flat flares. Problem solved.

The second is width. A tire can be too wide. For that, you need a wheel with less "backspacing"--i.e., the wheel can't be as deep. A deep wheel will pull the tires under the fender flares, which is the case with the stock wheels. That's fine . . . if your tires are only 10" wide like the stock ones.

But most aftermarket tires folks want (like my 33x12.5R15 DuraTracs) are both taller and WIDER than the stock tires. If you put 12.5" wide tires on your stock wheels, the tires will rub on internal components in your wheel wells when you make turns and the like.

So you need either spacers (which push your current wheels further outward) or wheels with less backspacing (which pushes the tires further outward). That's why the tires on jeeps you see with "big tires" all sit partially outside BEYOND the fender flares. They have aftermarket wheels (or are using spacers) to get those fatter tires to sit further out, so they don't rub inside the wheel well.

On a stock jeep, you can squeeze 33" tires under your flares. But if those tires are wider than about 11", then they're going to rub.

Check this thread for more detail: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f27/largest-tire-on-stock-jk-heres-your-answer-142837.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The thing to note is that there can be TWO types of "rubbing" issues.

The first is height. A tire can be too tall. For that, you need a lift or flat flares. Problem solved.

The second is width. A tire can be too wide. For that, you need a wheel with less "backspacing"--i.e., the wheel can't be as deep. A deep wheel will pull the tires under the fender flares, which is the case with the stock wheels. That's fine . . . if your tires are only 10" wide like the stock ones.

But most aftermarket tires folks want (like my 33x12.5R15 DuraTracs) are both taller and WIDER than the stock tires. If you put 12.5" wide tires on your stock wheels, the tires will rub on internal components in your wheel wells when you make turns and the like.

So you need either spacers (which push your current wheels further outward) or wheels with less backspacing (which pushes the tires further outward). That's why the tires on jeeps you see with "big tires" all sit partially outside BEYOND the fender flares. They have aftermarket wheels (or are using spacers) to get those fatter tires to sit further out, so they don't rub inside the wheel well.

On a stock jeep, you can squeeze 33" tires under your flares. But if those tires are wider than about 11", then they're going to rub.

Check this thread for more detail: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f27/largest-tire-on-stock-jk-heres-your-answer-142837.html
Thanks that helps. I really know nothing about tires and wheel sizes. I'm learning a lot these past couple weeks on Jeeps and various parts.

All I know for wheels/tires is that I want black wheels and DuraTrac tires at 32 or 33". Unless I'm mistaken that DuraTrac's aren't the best for all-season (good on light snow).
 

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You need to do more research on tire apparently. Duratracs are one of if not the best all season tires. Especially in snow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well my research showed DuraTracs being the best I was just verifying. In terms of how wheels and tires are fitted, yeah, I don't understand that much. I'm starting to though.
 

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I'm running 2.5 RC coil spring lift and then was introduced to the world of offroading :D IF you plan on wheeling you will/should be adding body armor, lots of it. After adding bumpers, winches, skids, etc I threw on a .75 Daystar budget boost (spacers) to make up for the added weight. I personally think spacers would be fine if you're not adding all the extras, post pics when done!
 

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I run Duratracs on a severe-duty police vehicle, year round. Drawbacks... they are soft and wear fast on the twisty mountain roads when they are bare. Pluses - they stick like glue while they last... surprising traction on ice and snow for a non-ice specific tire. I run them year round. At $400 a pop for 35" on my Jeep though, an investment in safety...
 
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