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Discussion Starter #1
In no way, shape, or form am I bashing on anyone's products, just need a cheap backup for when I grenade my driveshaft again! I did this last wknd, an limped it back under power from the front end. I'm just looking for solutions to carry as a backup to to get me along till the "good one" gets repaired an sent back, an also to carry on the trail to have so the day doesn't get ruined again. I've read of people using a stock front DS an having it cut down, an even thought about using implement, like a driveline for a brushhog, just to get me out of the trails. Any thoughts or ideas?
 

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go to the junkyard and buy a U-joint front driveshaft off an XJ, TJ or ZJ. Have a driveshaft shop cut it down to fit your TJ's rear. It may need the u-joints replaced, splines tightened, rebalanced, etc. It'll run around $300 for a full rebuild. or you could just buy a new shaft for a little more.
 

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UnlimitedLJ04 said:
go to the junkyard and buy a U-joint front driveshaft off an XJ, TJ or ZJ. Have a driveshaft shop cut it down to fit your TJ's rear. It may need the u-joints replaced, splines tightened, rebalanced, etc. It'll run around $300 for a full rebuild. or you could just buy a new shaft for a little more.
X2

doclouie said:
I want to know what you did to grenade your drive shaft like that.
X2

Lol :)
 

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find a local drive line shop or two and get prices from them, i have a guy near me i go to who built me a brand new CV DS for $250 out the door had my old one repaired for around $100. you could always look online at like tattons or something like that but i would try local first
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replys. I'll check with my local driveshaft guy. The one i grenaded is on its way back to the place I got it, its only about 2 moths old, so it should be under their 180 day warranty, an the gold seal u joints are supposed to be unbreakable, with a lifetime warranty, which I broke 2 an bent the third.
I was out with some good friends, had the whole family in my rig, wife an kids, so I wasn't beating on it hard, just headed up a level 3-4 hill, just about to crest the hard part an heard a loud "pop". Didn't bounce it, drop the clutch, just an easy crawl up in 4lo. The Jeep is stock, just 4" lift an 33's. I was pretty sure the pop was going to be one of the stock axels, I figured the D35 would give it up before the high-end, highly recommended driveshaft would. I was really surprised to look under my Jeep an see parts an pieces of my new DS scattered everywhere.
 

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BTW... do you keep blowing out the H-Yoke like that in the same spot? What operating angles is your shaft at (t-case output to pinion )
 

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TnDz TJ said:
BTW... do you keep blowing out the H-Yoke like that in the same spot? What operating angles is your shaft at (t-case output to pinion )
Yep what is your pinion angle compared to the driveshaft??? The driveshaft should be the same or 4 degrees max angle over the pinion angle... Anymore or less than that and you will be toasting ujoints and driveshafts left and right....

And who makes the driveshaft you toasted???
 

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Here is a good read on shafts....

Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

This intrigues me a lot since normal to max operating angles of double cardans can vary from shaft to shaft in relation to length. It is important to know what the specs are on your shaft so you can figure out if you are in normal operating ranges in your rig.


When you get down to reading this article... you may want to pause, soak it in and re-read again. I have referenced this article from time to time to grasp situations I was a little clouded on. I still reference it just to see if I missed anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
TnDz, thanks for the link, I'll bookmark it an refer back. I don't remember exactly right offhand what the angle is exactly, but I do have adjustable upper an lower rear control arms, an did point the pinion directly at the transfer case output, I used the trackbar relocation bracket so it wouldn't be into the gas tank. I do have a UCF tt, with the lopro trans mount, an brown dog mml. I did the research an thought I had all my ducks in a row as far as not half ass throwing a lift together in the hopes of not over stressing parts. I put the sye, I believe it's a mega short HD, an woods DS at the same time as the TT was done. This is the first time I have broke it, so as far as breaking it at the same spot, I'm unsure.
I did all the work myself, with the help from this forum for information. This is the first experience with building up a Jeep, I gave up my high 8 second drag car for something more family oriented. Wasn't much fun for the wife an kids to watch me make a few passes in the drag car, while sitting in the sun all day. I know how important driveline geometry was in the race car, as far as preloading the suspension to help create traction, so I know it has to be very important when the stresses of off-road are factored in.
I am in the process of building an 8.8 for the rear, an will index the housing back to ease the stress of having the control arms rotate the stock housing, an I put a lift on a buddy's Jeep last week (stock jk Rubicon unlimited ) an plan on trying those springs in my Jeep with the hopes of lowering it back down at least an inch an a half, which will also help with the angles of everything. I figured with the TT, an flat fenders front an back I have plenty of clearance, I can drop the lift some to ease some of the straion the driveline.
Sorry for the long post, but I figured all was pertinent info to determine what was actually going on with my Jeep. Thanks again for all the info!
 

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no problem... just remember, the operating angle of the CV is just as important as the setup ( orientation in regard to pinion angle) If your double cardan is run over the max operating angle on the street, when you hit the trails your angles only get worse at times as you flex and droop and unload the axles on steep grades.
 
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