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1995 YJ 4.0
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30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I've just been out and changed my injectors. Did everything right, or so I thought, but it looks like the injectors aren't seated correctly and I can hear hissing. Engine is rocking like its not firing on all cylinders all well. Cleaned out all of the gunk before fitting them, no o-rings unaccounted for and I cant push them in any further. Going to have to strip it all back down tomorrow in the light and need to check for torn o-rings as per another tip I found but in the meantime...

Can someone please confirm for me that the new ones I've bought should fit into the fuel rail/engine ok? They're a different body shape but also the nozzle is less tapered so don't know if that has any effect?

Appreciate any help - just got a few things sorted and now shes going to be off the road again :(

Cheers
 

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They looked identical, yours might not be providing the right amount of fuel






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1995 YJ 4.0
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thats true. Even when i get the sucking air issue resolved I might still run into problems. Was meant to be an upgrade for the parts I already had fitted!
 

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did you oil the orings?
 

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1995 YJ 4.0
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi, yeah - well I greased them with vaseline. Been out again now its a new day and the fuel huffing headache has gone. I don't think they're seated right. Will try and refit, taking the usual precautions, and see if I can get them in further. I guess I don't know for sure that the different style body/nozzle/o ring will definitely fit but they were sold as an interchangeable part and upgrade so I'll give it the benefit of the doubt.
 

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Bet you bought them on eBay and they are supposed to be 4 hole injectors... I'd take the stock injectors you took out and have them rebuilt.
 

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Hi, yeah - well I greased them with vaseline. Been out again now its a new day and the fuel huffing headache has gone. I don't think they're seated right. Will try and refit, taking the usual precautions, and see if I can get them in further. I guess I don't know for sure that the different style body/nozzle/o ring will definitely fit but they were sold as an interchangeable part and upgrade so I'll give it the benefit of the doubt.



Vaseline will deteriorate rubber you should use silicone based lubricant on o-rings if you dont want them to fall apart on you. I use silicone plumbers grease you can get it at any home improvement store in the plumbing section it's not that expensive https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-0-5-oz-Silicone-Faucet-Grease-88693/203193536
 

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How long does it take for vaseline to eat the o-ring? 5 years ago I used vaseline on the injectors of my TJ and they're just fine. Wouldn't silicone-based greases play havoc with oxygen sensors?
 

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1995 YJ 4.0
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30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I can't comment on the Vaseline thing. That's what the 'trusted' youtube tutorial guys say to use. As it happens, I then used oil as per previous advice and they slide in much better so I'll be using that method over grease.

Anyways, put the old injectors back in and now it runs on all cylinders with no vibrations, albeit very rich. White smoke and smell of fuel. Something to look at next.

What can I say about the new injectors I bought? Waste of money for me. Was advertised as a straight upgrade for the OEM part. O rings weren't as well made that's for sure. These new ones seem to be much flimsier and loose. The old chunky beefy rubber ones do a much better job. Overall, they might work better for others so no hard feelings about them.

Petrol fuel injector refurbishments are few and far between in UK. The best you can get is a mail order service. Diesel injector guys are everywhere but they're ONLY diesel fuel system. Seems to be because they can be torn down and remanufactured. Petrol ones don't have serviceable parts? Apart from the o rings. However, they can be cleaned and tested and that would at least tell me whether one is stuck open etc.

Cheers
 

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Have you tried a can or two of fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank? I don't put a lot of faith in many additives, but I think fuel injector cleaner may be a worthwhile exception.

Another suggestion is Seafoam. The can says it can be used in the gas tank at the rate of 1 oz. per gallon. It isn't expensive and I don't believe it can hurt.
I used it in my crankcase as per instructions and it cured a lifter clack after two applications. I now use it in my crankcase every second oil change.

I'd use one or the other. I wouldn't use them together. I don't have any reason to not use fuel injector cleaner in conjunction with Seafoam other than extreme caution.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, small update and some further questions for the forum. And I do appreciate all the suggestions and guidance so far!

Old injectors are back in and the white smoke has mostly cleared after a few days of running. Got new old stock injectors that Im going to have a play with cos I'm still convinced theyre leaking.

But...couple of times the cars not started then does and launches into a 3k idle. Rest of the time it starts and runs fine.

Been understanding the relevance of the vacuum in older engines and this would sort of tie in with some of the issues I've been having.

Problem is, my vac lines are slightly different to the standard and looks to have been a bit of a bodge job.

I've rectified the air filter to valve cover hose (that was previously just hanging loose) but I need to work out why the intake manifold was being fed directly into there. Would this serve a purpose or have any negative impact?

Currently I have airbox into intake and now I have a loose hose tee'd off the intake needs to go back to canister? I think. Or could I just block this one off at the intake and be done? Do I need to block the evap canister up too?

Few pics of my setup, notice the now loose and taped up end (to fit the valve cover elbow!) and the one at that back of the cover that has the same black tape 'gasket'.

Cheers
 

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I suggest that you follow the stock diagram. You should be able to buy lengths of vacuum hose in whatever size you need. You may have to buy some universal connectors, but they should be readily available too. Most auto parts stores carry vacuum hoses. If they don't have vacuum hose, any usable size of available rubber tubing should work.

I assume the top pic is stock and the bottom pic is what you have. If so, you're close to where you want to be. A PO probably had some hoses disconnected and didn't go to the trouble to access the schematic as you did.

Keep us posted on how it goes.

Good luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just going to wrap this one up, HATE unresolved threads as they're useless to people years down the line who have same issues. Injectors and vac hoses definitely resolved many running issues.

Something I think is worth highlighting to others...and it may be really obvious...

The little elbow on the FPR looked in ok condition, hard line fitted it nice and snug, no obvious damage or brittleness etc.

When it was pushed onto the fpr valve, the whole underside of the elbow, where it has a seam (?) had split, leaving the whole elbow open to atmosphere. This was invisible from above so I thought it was doing its job.

The lesson I'm taking away is that even though a rubber hose or elbow can appear fine, probably worth twisting and flexing it around (within reason) to see if it opens any holes as they close back up when its in the normal position.

Thanks for all the people who dipped in with suggestions along the way.

On to the next job...
 

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Glad to hear you figured it out.
 
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