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Discussion Starter #1
Finally decided to go with the 35" Duratrac's (vs 33"). Some people have advised the differences are slight in GPM, and I like the slight increase in tire size w my 2.5" lift.

Have all things ready and checked... Wheels with a 4.75" backspace, pinch seems/rock rails trimmed, Procal, and possible Teraflex rotor upgrade.

I also figure for $40 why not add the inner C-Gussets as I heard mixed reviews about bends/etc. Small price to pay for added strength.

But why only is the Front inner C's a concern? Why aren't people advising of something similar for the rears?
 

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Because the rear axle is built stronger than the front. It doesn't have flimsy steering components since it's not a steering axle. Oh, and it has bigger, thicker axle tubes that can carry a lot more weight without bending.

You can reinforce the rear axle with a weld on truss but it's not really necessary for a rear Dana 44 with 35's.

For full protection with my 35" tires, I went with this full kit: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

It gives you the inner C brace that you're getting, a full truss to keep the thin axle tubes from bending, and lower control arm skids which help prevent you from bending the flimsy factory sheet metal lower control arm mounts. And since everything outside of the differential housing is the same between the standard Dana 30 and the Rubicon Dana 44, it's a good upgrade for either axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Because the rear axle is built stronger than the front. It doesn't have flimsy steering components since it's not a steering axle. Oh, and it has bigger, thicker axle tubes that can carry a lot more weight without bending. You can reinforce the rear axle with a weld on truss but it's not really necessary for a rear Dana 44 with 35's. For full protection with my 35" tires, I went with this full kit: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT It gives you the inner C brace that you're getting, a full truss to keep the thin axle tubes from bending, and lower control arm skids which help prevent you from bending the flimsy factory sheet metal lower control arm mounts. And since everything outside of the differential housing is the same between the standard Dana 30 and the Rubicon Dana 44, it's a good upgrade for either axle.
Great 411. Does this also stay true for the front axle being a Rubi? Would this full Artec front be overkill just for 35's? (Assuming the great majority of the time will be on pavement).
 

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When I upgraded to 35's I added Synergy gussets, upgraded my ball joints, installed G2 front axle shafts and also sleeved the front end. I do moderate off-roading so for me that strengthened the front end sufficiently based on my needs.

I probably didn't need the sleeves but I had them installed for a reasonably price so I went for it.
 

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Great 411. Does this also stay true for the front axle being a Rubi? Would this full Artec front be overkill just for 35's? (Assuming the great majority of the time will be on pavement).
It does apply to the front Rubicon 44. Everything from the axle tubes out is the same between the D30 and Rubicon 44. The only thing the Rubicon 44 gives you is a stronger center section with a stronger gear set, a locker, and 30 spline inner shafts (the D30 gives you 27 spline inner shafts). It has the smaller, thin wall axle tubes, small inner C's, flimsy sheet metal brackets, mediocre ball joints, etc. It bends just like the D30 and needs to be reinforced. In fact, Artec makes its kit for both axles. Those kits share many pieces between them.
 

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You might want to check into upgrading your ball joints too. The stock joints aren't all that great and with 35's you might chew them up in 15-20k miles. You don't have to pull the knuckle and ball joints to weld in the gussets but it's easier and then you might as well replace the ball joints while you've got the junk stock ones out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You might want to check into upgrading your ball joints too. The stock joints aren't all that great and with 35's you might chew them up in 15-20k miles. You don't have to pull the knuckle and ball joints to weld in the gussets but it's easier and then you might as well replace the ball joints while you've got the junk stock ones out.
Ball joints also? Geez... Making me rethink 33's.

Ok... Gussets, Trimmed Pinch, ProCal, 4.75" backspacing (on a 2.5" BB), and ball joints.

Would I be missing anything else?
 

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Ball joints also? Geez... Making me rethink 33's.

Ok... Gussets, Trimmed Pinch, ProCal, 4.75" backspacing (on a 2.5" BB), and ball joints.

Would I be missing anything else?
Time will tell..Muahhahahaha!
 

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IMO you'll be fine with that. Ball joints aren't that bad to install if you have a good kit. I rented mine from Advance and knocked them out easily. Duratracs are a light 35 too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
IMO you'll be fine with that. Ball joints aren't that bad to install if you have a good kit. I rented mine from Advance and knocked them out easily. Duratracs are a light 35 too.
Right? But knowing my luck... I won't be one of those Jeeper's that has run 35d with no prep work and be completely fine.

Taking all (needed?) precautions whilst keeping a budget (which for some reason tends to increase everytime I log onto WranglerForum).
 

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FWIW I've run 35s and wheeled moderately for about 20k now on stock BJs, gussets, etc without issue. They'll get shot before too long but still going strong for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update guys!

I got a deal so I got Synergy ball joints, front and rear Atrec Trüss, Front Sleeves, C-Gussets, lower control arm skids, and a welded track-bar bracket... So i assume i should be good for 35"s.

BUT let's say after 40K miles and my 35's wear... Will this set-up be good for 37's? (Just curious).

*Also will my sleeves interfere with axle shafts if I ever decide to upgrade? Or am i misunderstanding something about the function of sleeves?
 

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So you got the Artec truss AND sleeves? The function of sleeves is to compensate for the relatively thin walls/weakness of the housing tubes.....which the Artec truss does a good job of correcting. I doesn't hurt to have both...I guess. Sleeves should not interfere with better axles shafts. Anyway, running 37s? Yes, that's all fine, but there is more to running 37s (if you actually plan to wheel with them and use them to their potential) than stronger axles. It's a good start though. Just keep spending $$, you'll get there. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Haha! I did get both (Evo Off-Road told me it was overkill, however another shop told me they do two different functions). Regardless, i opted for both as it was a package steal (and a good one none the less).

Now hopefully i could save enough money to have the most capable rig that any mall has ever scene.

So you got the Artec truss AND sleeves? The function of sleeves is to compensate for the relatively thin walls/weakness of the housing tubes.....which the Artec truss does a good job of correcting. I doesn't hurt to have both...I guess. Sleeves should not interfere with better axles shafts. Anyway, running 37s? Yes, that's all fine, but there is more to running 37s (if you actually plan to wheel with them and use them to their potential) than stronger axles. It's a good start though. Just keep spending $$, you'll get there. :)
 

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Jeez, I'm still running stock BJ's, no C gussets, actually nothing done to my stock front axle. Have wheeled the hell out of it with 35" MTR's and everything is still in spec. Maybe I got a mid-week axle. lol
 

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It's my understandng that a rear dana 44 axle housing and a front dana 30 axle housing are the same diameter and thickness. Might have been some incorrect info givin earlier.
 
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