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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as most know the factory Alpine audio system sounds "okay" but suffers really bad with bass "roll-off" - which is what occurs when you turn up the volume and the system adjusts the amount of bass the sub puts out to protect itself, I want to change that by installing a small amp and replace the sub in the factory enclosure.

I'm actually pretty satisfied with the Mid and Highs that the system puts out it just the lack of Bass.

Here are my plans but I need to hear from those who replaced the Factory 8" sub.

First I would like to know the approximate air space of the factory sub enclosure so I can match it to the requirements of the new sub, I also need to now if its decently sealed or not... lastly as far as the factory sub enclosure goes do I need a shallow mount sub or will a regular sub fit depth wise?

I will disconnect the factory wiring inside the box and wire in new speaker wire from a standalone mono amp.

I will use the audiocontrol AC2i which will allow me to keep the factory head unit and the rest of the audio system (speaker, and factory amp) but using that gives me a premium line converter to then have RCA connections to the amp and also standalone gain and bass adjustment. This unit is really a pretty unique interface for allowing me to do what I want.

The reason of this thread is to figure out from those who have changed out the factory sub some of the details of their install. I will use a small mono amp to give me quality power for the sub and install in in the rear storage cubby but when this install is all said and done there will be no visible parts mainly because if I have the top off/down I dont want someone to help their self to a sub box and amp just sitting in the back.

Please post up what you have done and hopefully I can get this underway soon.
 

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My suggestion is don't mess with the factory enclosure. I just did a full overhaul of my sound system including putting a new RF 8' sub in the enclosure. It was impossible for the bass to keep up with everything else..when the volume went up, everything started to rattle. Luckily, my installer had a ported Hertz 10" sub and enclosure and we plugged it in....night and day difference. Now I have the fullness in sound I was hoping for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can you give me some details of your install? Did you use an amp for just the sub and what did you use for signal interface?

My install will be pretty straight forward as far as the amp and sub but having the audiocontrol AC2i is the key component as it allows me to pull a signal from any amplified speaker up to 400 watts which is perfect for a factory amplified system and that then converts it to an RCA preout that I then connect to the amp. The unique thing about that interface is also that I can infinitely adjust the bass threshold so that the imaging and timing is perfect and it will solve the "roll-off" I mentioned earlier and I'm thinking that might be what you had since you said the sub couldn't keep up.

The sub I'm looking at is the shallow mount MB Quart and that sub requires a minimum of .25 cu ft and a maximum of .50 cu ft for ideal enclosure volume, and I found that our factory enclosure is .35 cu ft so the sub is just about perfect for the given enclosure.

The amp I'm using is the new Rockford 500.1D which I will most likely have the gain somewhere around half way since it will produce approx 500 watts continuous at 2 ohms and it should run pretty efficient.
 

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If I remember correctly, it is about 0.3 cubic feet....so it is a pretty small space.

There is a JL Audio sub that is supposed to work pretty well.

My plan is simple as well. Use an amp that has speaker level inputs and simply place this new amp between the factory amp and the (new) sub. This will allow me to adjust the gain on the sub as well.
 

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I'm using the stock head unit going to a audison bit ten processor going to a Rockford Fosgate T600-4 with two of the channels going to Focal KRX2 front components and the second two channels bridged and going to the Hertz 10" sub. I also have two Hertz coaxial speakers in the sound bar that are powered by the head unit.

I need to do a write up on the system so others can benefit....it's amazing how much tuning needed to happen with the bit ten to create the signature needed to compensate for the acoustics of the JKU. I can't recommend enough having someone who knows there stuff do the install and tune. My JKU sounds unbelievable now....better than any car I've been in. But the biggest reason for the sound is the 6 hours of tuning done by an expert....and the Focals don't hurt either...:cool:

Can you give me some details of your install? Did you use an amp for just the sub and what did you use for signal interface?

My install will be pretty straight forward as far as the amp and sub but having the audiocontrol AC2i is the key component as it allows me to pull a signal from any amplified speaker up to 400 watts which is perfect for a factory amplified system and that then converts it to an RCA preout that I then connect to the amp. The unique thing about that interface is also that I can infinitely adjust the bass threshold so that the imaging and timing is perfect and it will solve the "roll-off" I mentioned earlier and I'm thinking that might be what you had since you said the sub couldn't keep up.

The sub I'm looking at is the shallow mount MB Quart and that sub requires a minimum of .25 cu ft and a maximum of .50 cu ft for ideal enclosure volume, and I found that our factory enclosure is .35 cu ft so the sub is just about perfect for the given enclosure.

The amp I'm using is the new Rockford 500.1D which I will most likely have the gain somewhere around half way since it will produce approx 500 watts continuous at 2 ohms and it should run pretty efficient.
 

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JL Audio

I think the guys and gals at JL audio are jeep owners. They always make speakers to fit Wranglers. Most of their speakers can be used in the factory mounts, and they are some of the best speakers on the market. That being said they are a little pricey. I have used them in all three of my Wranglers, and never had a problem. They are the best for plug and play. Add a JL amp and you have a jeep that will sound better than you could ever imagine. They also make a stealth box for almost all Wranglers. I am pleased with their products so far. I promise they are not paying me for this post.
Also you need to replace your factory head unit. The factory head unit just can not handle most upgraded speakers. I used a Kenwood DNX6190 in my 2011 Wrangler Unlimited. I couldn't ask for a better sound.
 

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I'm using the stock head unit going to a audison bit ten processor going to a Rockford Fosgate T600-4 with two of the channels going to Focal KRX2 front components and the second two channels bridged and going to the Hertz 10" sub. I also have two Hertz coaxial speakers in the sound bar that are powered by the head unit.

I need to do a write up on the system so others can benefit....it's amazing how much tuning needed to happen with the bit ten to create the signature needed to compensate for the acoustics of the JKU. I can't recommend enough having someone who knows there stuff do the install and tune. My JKU sounds unbelievable now....better than any car I've been in. But the biggest reason for the sound is the 6 hours of tuning done by an expert....and the Focals don't hurt either...:cool:
I'm totally interested in knowing more about your set up! I am struggling with my sound because every vehicle I've ever owned had an aftermarket stereo in it complete with Amp and Sub(s). I'm not impressed with the Alpine sound... and would love to see a write up so I can get this done to mine!! :thumb:
 
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