[eldomi809]

So ive been looking around for maybe 3 straight days now but have yet to find a clear answer (or maybe im not looking hard enough)... I want to add a sub and amp to my 08 jkur which has the infinity sound system. I was able to find a wiring diagram for the factory amp...but i want to get the signal before the factory amp in hope of it being cleaner to then have it processed by my aftermarket amp.
I will be keeping all the factory components including sub intact and working. Could some of you fellow jeepers chime in on this

This is the diagram i found but its for wiring leaving to the speakers from factory amp....right?

 

[milani]

Yes, that is from the amp to the speakers. I am not sure about the 08, but in the newer models, you lose head unit functionality if you bypass the amplifier.

 

[NFRs2000NYC]

Are you going to use a LOC? If so, you want to tap into the wiring AFTER the amp, not before.

 

[eldomi809]

Yea ill be using a loc to go to rca into the aftermarket amp... My main concern is that the frequency the current infinity amp sends out to factory sub will be just as shitty and then re-amplified to the extra sub

 

[Mike-]

I believe the loc bring everything back to preamp line levels and a flat frequency cuvée. That's why they also make locs with frequency generators.

 

[eldomi809]

So would it be easier (convenient because i would have to run less wires) to just tap into the wires right before the get into the factory sub.. Or should i do it right after they leave the amp?

 

[milani]

I did mine right after they leave the amp because I tucked the LOC away under the dash and installed my amp under the passenger seat

 

[herminshs]

Use the LOC

 

[NFRs2000NYC]

So would it be easier (convenient because i would have to run less wires) to just tap into the wires right before the get into the factory sub.. Or should i do it right after they leave the amp?

Doesn't matter, whatever is easier for you. For me, it was easier to tap into the wires at the sub because I can just plug in directly into the OEM wires (Using mopar speaker harnesses) and not have to vampire tap or cut any factory wiring.

 

[eldomi809]

Thanks for the details... I think it would probably be easier to do it by the factory sub as my amp ia mounted on the back of my sub's box.. That way i can avoid running wires from the front to the back (other than power from the battery) ...

Which brings me to another question.. Best place to put the remote wire so my after market amp doesnt kill my battery??

 

[NFRs2000NYC]

Thanks for the details... I think it would probably be easier to do it by the factory sub as my amp ia mounted on the back of my sub's box.. That way i can avoid running wires from the front to the back (other than power from the battery) ...

Which brings me to another question.. Best place to put the remote wire so my after market amp doesnt kill my battery??

If you use a quality LOC (like an audiocontrol unit) it will have a remote wire signal built in. If not, most people tap into the cig lighter on the dash.

 

[eldomi809]

Thanks .. Now i have to do some homework on how to get the wire through the firewall to the battery and to the cig lighter

 

[milani]

There is a spot on the passenger side if you take off the access panel on the dash that you can access the battery. There is a foam spot that you can push a hanger through. I had to make the hole a little bigger to get 8 gauge wire through it.

 

[NFRs2000NYC]

There is a spot on the passenger side if you take off the access panel on the dash that you can access the battery. There is a foam spot that you can push a hanger through. I had to make the hole a little bigger to get 8 gauge wire through it.

Say what? I got my 4 gauge through there without issue.

 

[eldomi809]

Access panel on pass side? Remove the glove box and its behind that??

 

[milani]

The panel on the side of the dash. Up towards the top of the dash you will see a round hole filled with foam.

 

[NFRs2000NYC]

Access panel on pass side? Remove the glove box and its behind that??

No, the panel literally on the side of the dash. Open the passenger front door, and you will see the side of the dashboard. The panel piece looks like a moon crest sort of....pop that panel out and look towards the firewall...you will see a 1" or so diameter hole filled with foam. Take a long screwdriver, and poke a hole in the foam, and then wallow it out. Take a wire hanger, open it up into a long snake....shove it through the hole, leaving about 10" inside the cabin and the rest through...be careful with the hanger coming out under the hood, guide it so that it doesn't scratch your fender. Take your wiring, and overlay it by about 5" over the hanger inside the cab, and use electrical tape to secure the two together...go over about 3" on both sides so that you have a good hold...lube up the electrical tape with a little bit of dish soap to make it slide easier and pull through.

Keep in mind, the far side of that hole is NOT round...it is in the shape of a teardrop. If you feel a binding when pulling, pull towards the side (outside of the hole, towards the tire on the drivers side, and I believe the passenger tire on the passenger side) and wiggle it through. I fit my 4 gauge power wire on the passenger side, the SPOD harness on the driver's side + cb wiring, so it WILL fit.

 

[Happy515Camper]

When all the wiring is set in place the foam can be replaced. I used expanding foam from home depot.

 

[NFRs2000NYC]

When all the wiring is set in place the foam can be replaced. I used expanding foam from home depot.

Just make sure you use the soft foam not the hard one.

 

[eldomi809]

Looking to do it this weekend (outside at about 30-35 degrees ) thanks again for the info.