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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed the moroso oil catch can on my 2016 JKHR . the can and bracket is very nice quality,

I did decide to upgrade the fittings and hose to a higher quality.

everything was purchased at SUMMIT RACING. below are all the part numbers.

MOR-85518 - moroso catch can kit
RUS-632173 - 10an proclassic hose 10FT.
RUS-610043 - full flow black hose end - need 2 pcs
FRA-482211-BL - 90 degree fitting black - need 2pcs
 

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It's important to make sure the spigot (for draining) is not facing
inward (toward the engine). I adjusted mine so that it angles in
the direction of the driver's side headlight. This allows for me to
use an open area directly below the drain plug for placement of a
small receptacle (bottle) when draining the can. The can can be
adjusted upward or downward by simply loosening one screw holding
it in place but if you set it too high, you may have the top of the can
hitting the roof of the inner hood. Make sure you have proper clearance
before you re-tighten the screw holding the can. Also, don't forget to
reset the ground wire that is shown in a photo on the 17 page install
sheet from Moroso.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's important to make sure the spigot (for draining) is not facing
inward (toward the engine). I adjusted mine so that it angles in
the direction of the driver's side headlight. This allows for me to
use an open area directly below the drain plug for placement of a
small receptacle (bottle) when draining the can. The can can be
adjusted upward or downward by simply loosening one screw holding
it in place but if you set it too high, you may have the top of the can
hitting the roof of the inner hood. Make sure you have proper clearance
before you re-tighten the screw holding the can. Also, don't forget to
reset the ground wire that is shown in a photo on the 17 page install
sheet from Moroso.
thanks for the info,,,, did do everything you mentioned !
 

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Just installed the moroso oil catch can on my 2016 JKHR . the can and bracket is very nice quality,

I did decide to upgrade the fittings and hose to a higher quality.

everything was purchased at SUMMIT RACING. below are all the part numbers.

MOR-85518 - moroso catch can kit
RUS-632173 - 10an proclassic hose 10FT.
RUS-610043 - full flow black hose end - need 2 pcs
FRA-482211-BL - 90 degree fitting black - need 2pcs
Very cool, man! Engine bay looks awesome...
 

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what did you paint the engine cover with? looks great.
 

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If you have a SPOD this will not work. I am in the process of trying to find a solution.
 

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Just curious, what is the purpose of this (honest question).
 

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Okay, thanks for the explanation. Second question. Why should I care if some oil is being burned up in the engine? Jeep does not "use" any oil between 4500 mile oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, thanks for the explanation. Second question. Why should I care if some oil is being burned up in the engine? Jeep does not "use" any oil between 4500 mile oil changes.
Vehicles from the factory vent these excess crankcase vapors, residual oil mist and moisture right back into the intake manifold which could cause detonation, oil deposits to form in the intake tract including the valves themselves.
 

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huh, never heard of that being a problem with these engines. Fully well aware that engines recirculate crankcase vapors into the intake (i.e. the good old PCV system) (graduated college with automotive mechanics degree and worked as full time mechanic for 3 years and part time for 26 years so have some basic understanding of how engines work). Just never seen it to be a problem enough to require this and was curious if there was something problematic that was specific to these engines that I was not aware of.
 

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Damn you, I like that engine cover. Nicely done. I understand the desire for a catch can on charge cooled forced induction vehicles, not so much on "naturally aspirated"


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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My interest is peaked in how many people have posted on this catch can w less than 100 posts. Coincidence? idk
 

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huh, never heard of that being a problem with these engines. Fully well aware that engines recirculate crankcase vapors into the intake (i.e. the good old PCV system) (graduated college with automotive mechanics degree and worked as full time mechanic for 3 years and part time for 26 years so have some basic understanding of how engines work). Just never seen it to be a problem enough to require this and was curious if there was something problematic that was specific to these engines that I was not aware of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
so say you get 15mpg. that is 289 gallons or 36992 ounces of fuel used in 4335 miles, so I wonder what diluting 36992 ounces of fuel with 2.56 ounces of blow by is going to reduce octane by over all? Any chemical/petro engineers want to clue us in?

---------------------------
2.56/289=.0089 ounces of oil per gallon.

1 ml = .0338ounces

.0338/4=.0084

So we're talking about a quarter of a ml of oil per gallon, if my math is right, Whoa!

1/4ml to every 3785.4118ml

3785.4118-.25=3785.1618

3785.1618/3785.4118=0.999933957

Since oil is a zero on octane

.999933957×85=84.9943863439

So we've effectively reduced 85 octane by .006 making it the 84.9943863439?

Regardless of that last equation being the proper route to reduced octane. We are talking a 1/4 of a ml to a gallon of fuel.
 

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My interest is peaked in how many people have posted on this catch can w less than 100 posts. Coincidence? idk
My curiosity is picked relative to your implication that a person's post count on this particular forum is directly related to his or her basic knowledge of how a modern motor... Regardless of make... works.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
so say you get 15mpg. that is 289 gallons or 36992 ounces of fuel used in 4335 miles, so I wonder what diluting 36992 ounces of fuel with 2.56 ounces of blow by is going to reduce octane by over all? Any chemical/petro engineers want to clue us in?

---------------------------
2.56/289=.0089 ounces of oil per gallon.

1 ml = .0338ounces

.0338/4=.0084

So we're talking about a quarter of a ml of oil per gallon, if my math is right, Whoa!

1/4ml to every 3785.4118ml

3785.4118-.25=3785.1618

3785.1618/3785.4118=0.999933957

Since oil is a zero on octane

.999933957×85=84.9943863439

So we've effectively reduced 85 octane by .006 making it the 84.9943863439?

Regardless of that last equation being the proper route to reduced octane. We are talking a 1/4 of a ml to a gallon of fuel.
a blast from the past :)
 
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