Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
376 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently installed the Rancho 5000 shocks all around and decided I should probably change out the stabilizer as well so working on that. I removed the old one and after compressing it noticed oil leaking out all over the ground.

While I had it off I attached a flexible shaft to my drill and put a small wire wheel on the end. I proceeded to remove all of the rust scale that I could reach on the axle, the stabilizer bracket and most of the other bars and metal that I could reach. I followed this up with a spray of rust covering spray paint in flat black.

Now the question: in opening the package from Rancho, they have included a new tapered stud and some nuts to replace the one that is already there. Is it necessary to replace this bolt/stud with the new one or can I merely attach the stabilizer to the original bolt/stud? I already cleaned off the rust with the wire wheel and gave it a shot of paint. It appears to be in good shape so just wondering.

I also read on here that if one decides to remove this tapered stud that whacking it on the threaded end with a 2 lb sledge takes forever. If I read the posts correctly, it was recommended to whack the bar next to the stud and the force would loosen it???

Interested in hearing your thoughts.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,585 Posts
Did you get the version that is the "High Clearance" SS? Or is it the normal version? The High Clearance version comes with a bracket kit that moves the SS up a little to make it less prone to damage. While you likely could use that version without the bracket I would think if you have the bracket you would use the bracket.

High Clearance Installation Instructions
https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/165659.pdf
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
376 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I got the one without as I don't do any mud slinging or rock climbing so no need to move it up top. I decided to go ahead and use the existing stud as it was easier and I wanted to get the Jeep off of the jack stands and back on the road. I figured that I can always get back under and swap it out in the future if that is what is recommended.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
743 Posts
When I swapped a Rancho 5000 on my 16 JKU I did not use that extra long tapered bolt.I'm pretty sure I just installed it right where it came from, probably with the old bolt.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
376 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ya that is what I did however since I still have DW I will need to move on to the other root causes. I would love to be able to drive on the highway at 60 mph+ but the DW will not allow that.

I see many $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ going bye bye in my future. :puke:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
743 Posts
Ya that is what I did however since I still have DW I will need to move on to the other root causes. I would love to be able to drive on the highway at 60 mph+ but the DW will not allow that.

I see many $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ going bye bye in my future. :puke:
Can't find any play in tie rod/drag link? Track Bar? Bolts torqued? Don't mess with DW, its dangerous and will take out good components with it if you ignore it.

Did you squeeze all tie rod ends and drag link ends with large channel locks to verify no up/down movement?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
376 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Can't find any play in tie rod/drag link? Track Bar? Bolts torqued? Don't mess with DW, its dangerous and will take out good components with it if you ignore it.

Did you squeeze all tie rod ends and drag link ends with large channel locks to verify no up/down movement?
Haven't started that quest yet. Got sidetracked with the antenna shrink wrap process and installing my new 52" light bar. Decided to order the lower windshield brackets for my Sherpa Roof rack as the passenger side is starting to rot out like the rears had. Replaced those last year and decided to hold off on the fronts as only one looked bad and it helped lower the cost by doing it in two phases. Don't want to run the wires inside the old parts only to have to replace them when the new ones arrive. Hopefully will have them by the weekend and can finish the light bar install.
 

Attachments

1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top