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I have a question about installing the leveling kit. It sounds easy, but I have seen it done 2 different ways. Is it better to do one spring at a time and only taking off the sway bar link, shocks and brake line bracket for one wheel, tighten it all up and then go to the next? Or take off both sets and lower the whole axle and do both springs at the same time?
 

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most will say to do both at the same time. I did one side at a time and it worked well for me.
 

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Yea, you have to do both at the same time to get the axle dropped down far enough. You may be able to keep one tire on though to provide a pivot point. The rears are a cake walk and will fall right out.
-disco shocks
-disco sway links
-sep brake lines from frame
-sep parking brake lines from tub clip
-disco breather hose
The front is a little harder with the bumpstops especially the passenger side. A large crow bar helps working the coil in/out.
Same procedure. Except there's no parking brake cables,

Good luck :)
 

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Yea, you have to do both at the same time to get the axle dropped down far enough. You may be able to keep one tire on though to provide a pivot point. The rears are a cake walk and will fall right out.
-disco shocks
-disco sway links
-sep brake lines from frame
-sep parking brake lines from tub clip
-disco breather hose
The front is a little harder with the bumpstops especially the passenger side. A large crow bar helps working the coil in/out.
Same procedure. Except there's no parking brake cables,

Good luck :)
I did not have any problem dropping just one side at a time on the front. I used a spring compressor set on the springs when the weight of the jeep was on the springs and then when I dropped one side the spring was not able to rebound and it made it simple.
 

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Remember even with a leveling kit I suggest loosening arm and track bar bolts and re torquing so nothing is preloaded as this will effect your ride.
 

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I did not have any problem dropping just one side at a time on the front. I used a spring compressor set on the springs when the weight of the jeep was on the springs and then when I dropped one side the spring was not able to rebound and it made it simple.
+1

Cheap spring compressor finger tight with the suspension loaded one side of the time on the front, being a '13 I was a little paranoid about going too far with the driveshaft.

The rear was way easier but I still used the compressor, all I removed was the brake lines and wheel sensor wire. Biggest pain was snapping the spacer in the body.
 

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Probably a dumb question, but is this job remotely possible without a couple of axle jacks and lifting the Jeep 4 feet?

Say just two floor jacks? With 2 of these, I don't know how to manage the lowering and raising of the axle, though.
 

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Probably a dumb question, but is this job remotely possible without a couple of axle jacks and lifting the Jeep 4 feet?

Say just two floor jacks? With 2 of these, I don't know how to manage the lowering and raising of the axle, though.
Hold it up by the frame with 6-ton jack stands. Use your floor jack to raise/lower the axle.
 

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Sorry to hijack, but TeraFlex - you mentioned that you'd recommend loosening and re-tightening the control arm and track bar bolts to reduce the possibility of pre-load impacting ride quality... What if you never loosened them at all? I did a lift install and didn't touch the control arms. Is this something you recommend that I do? Does it really make a difference?
 

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Sorry to hijack, but TeraFlex - you mentioned that you'd recommend loosening and re-tightening the control arm and track bar bolts to reduce the possibility of pre-load impacting ride quality... What if you never loosened them at all? I did a lift install and didn't touch the control arms. Is this something you recommend that I do? Does it really make a difference?
You can still do this. Simply loosen the CA and track bar bolts while on the ground. Do not remove them. Shake the jeep, jump up and down on the front and rear bumpers then tighten and torque to spec. No jacks or lifting to accomplish this.
 

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You can still do this. Simply loosen the CA and track bar bolts while on the ground. Do not remove them. Shake the jeep, jump up and down on the front and rear bumpers then tighten and torque to spec. No jacks or lifting to accomplish this.
Yeah, I understood what they were talking about. I'm just being lazy. I had access to a mechanic's bay when I installed the lift so I had his lift and tools. I don't at home so either I go buy a torque wrench and do it myself, or see if i can get an auto shop to do it really quick with their air tools. I just hate the thought of paying someone to do that after I did the entire install myself and not being able to ensure that they torqued everything to spec as requested.
 

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I really do recommend doing it. With the 1.5" kit it wont make a huge difference in the rear but it can in the front since you are actually going up 2 inches. If you like the way it rides now you may not need to worry about it. But we get a lot of calls about a stiffer ride after these kits are installed and almost always this is the cause. Same thing with a severely shifted axle after putting this kit on.
 

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I really do recommend doing it. With the 1.5" kit it wont make a huge difference in the rear but it can in the front since you are actually going up 2 inches. If you like the way it rides now you may not need to worry about it. But we get a lot of calls about a stiffer ride after these kits are installed and almost always this is the cause. Same thing with a severely shifted axle after putting this kit on.
Teraflex...is the leveling kit 2 one inch pucks for each side on front? Could just one be used, making it a 1" lift all around? Don't mean to hijack.
 

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I really do recommend doing it. With the 1.5" kit it wont make a huge difference in the rear but it can in the front since you are actually going up 2 inches. If you like the way it rides now you may not need to worry about it. But we get a lot of calls about a stiffer ride after these kits are installed and almost always this is the cause. Same thing with a severely shifted axle after putting this kit on.
Thanks, I actually put on a Zone Offroad 3". I've been really happy with it, but this adjustment may help immensely.
 

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You can still do this. Simply loosen the CA and track bar bolts while on the ground. Do not remove them. Shake the jeep, jump up and down on the front and rear bumpers then tighten and torque to spec. No jacks or lifting to accomplish this.
I wondered if this would work...I did not loosen the CA bolts on mine when I lifted it and I've been slightly concerned about the bushings binding.

Okay, I'm done with the hijack!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You are correct and yes you can.

Is it both upper and lower control arms? The instructions for the leveling kit looks pretty easy but doesn't reference any of this, but the 2.5 inch lift instructions do. Also, someone recommended removing the skid plate to keep the front drive shaft from hitting it when you lower the axle. It doesn't look like it would hit.

I also found a video where someone just removed one tire at a time and installed it that way. It looked like it used the other tire as a pivot point and just lowered the axle with the jack. It took less than 3 minutes per spring once the bolts to the sway bar link, shocks and brake line bracket was loosened. Would you recommend doing it this way or just taking the whole front end appart at the same time? I will be working with jack stands and a floor jack.

Does anyone have a list of torque specs?


Thanks for all the help everyone.
 

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I suggest doing it to all arms. I used to own my own shop and this is one of the reasons I know to do this. As I mentioned it's not putting them in a huge bind at this low of lift but I figure if you can do something to relieve the stress and it's easy you might as well. As far as the method it's up to you. Even when I do them at home on jack stands I always do a whole axle at a time, but it's just personal preference. There is a saying in the automotive field. Ask 4 mechanics how to do something and you'll get 10 answers.
 

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