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Premium Member
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I've been working on getting everything I need done for prime wheeling sessions this summer. One of my tasks I had to get done was getting a CB in my rig.

While choosing what I wanted. I decided I wanted something fairly small, but something that still works well. Thats when I found the Cobra 75WXST. It's small and compact, and easy to remove it from the vehicle so you don't have to look at it, or don't have to worry about it being stolen while you have the top off, or doors off.

What was all needed to install?

-Screw Driver
-Pliers
-Random sockets.
-Patience..

Equipment:
-Cobra 75WXST (Cobra CB Radio 75 WX ST All in handset - 75WXST)
-VersaMount (VersaMount - CoolTechLLC)
-Firestick 4Ft'er 900w (Firestik FireFly Tunable Tip Fiberglass CB Antenna)
-Antenna Spring (Firestik SS-3M 3-Inch Medium Duty Stainless Steel Antenna Spring (SS3M))
-Firestik Coax Cable (Firestik 18 foot Fire-Flex coax cable with Fire-Ring - K48R18)

The Install
-----------------------
Now I have the MetalCloak Tire Carrier rear bumper, which sites VERY closely to the rear tail gate. So I had a huge problem using the original EVO mount that I had purchased. So I ended up needing to custom fab, a little L bracket for the swing out tire carrier.


Please do not pay attention to how this is hooked up... I opened things up, and tossed out instructions, and had to learn from trial and error. But from the pics you can see the L bracket that was used.

Once the bracket was done, It was time to start getting things ran. I started with mounting the receiver unit to the void below the glove box.


You remove the glove box, no tools are needed here, you just open your glove box, and push the sides in, and then pull it out. Quick and easy! I used zip ties initially, but will more than likely drill some holes, and mount it appropriately.

Now here is the tricky part, with only 18 feet of line, your sort of limited on how you run things. I originally saw someone run things into a rubber grommet, and through the door, and then through the trim. If you mount this thing on a swing out tail gate like I did, you will have to find another path.. 18 feet doesn't go to far, and wont get to your glove box, even on a JKR.


I started doing it that way...

After finding the failure of my ways. I decided to take a different approach.. My license plate light runs below, and then up to the passenger side tail light. I'm running the MetalCloak EXO Skin, and LED lights. So I removed the tail light, and then push my coax up through a hole that my license plate light is using.



Little bit of a better picture.


Now I can go straight up through the tail light void, to a rubber grommet already in place.





That is that... Running the cable from here was pretty easy, I just had to move some of the carpet out of the way, no tools were needed to do this at all.



Here is where things got a little interesting.. As I was trying to remove trim, It found it pretty hard to do without the FSM, and knowing how to remove the panels. So I opted to go up the piller, and follow the roll cage to the front of the vehicle. This still gave me enough line to reach the radio, and then some. So I unziped, and routed the coax through the roll cage pretty easily. Didn't snap pictures of it. Sorry! Leading my line to the top passenger piller.


As you can see from the pictures. I've got about a foot left, after I run it down to the glove box.

The P-59 barrel screws onto the Coax.. Make sure you pull the grounding down over the black part of the cable. Cable should be grounded to the outside of the barrel. Oh yes, also do not forget to put the screw thingy on there ... Sorry, cannot think of its name, but it is pictured here.



Next we are onto soldering the signal wire for the COAX.

Do not heat it up too much, or you will ruin your barrel, and need to get a new one, which was pretty hard to find. I ended up having to go with a PL-259 barrel from Radioshack.


This is about what it will look like when your done.


Hooked up to the unit.

Now off to run power. Now, I've seen weird grounding issues, and noise when you ground directly to the chassis, so in this case I am running both the positive, and ground to the battery itself. I ran this over the speaker, and then through a hole in the cabin that runs out, and to the battery area.



 

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Premium Member
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I took a screw driver, and poked a hole, and then threaded my wires through. but with the side on, you do not even notice it is there!



You can see from this picture, why I like this unit so much.. It just makes for a very clean setup, if you ever want to detach.





Over all a very clean setup!

Now for the secret sauce. As mentioned above, I did not wire things up correctly on the back.. So the Firering was not working like it should have. This picture displays the proper way to hook this up.



After this you just need to run your whip with a meter and you should be good. I was pretty good before hand, but was able to bring the SWR reading down quite a bit.. I started at 2.3, and am far below 1 now. Remember anything below 1 is good. I was also able to get it where the front of my Rig has the highest signal, which is a good thing.

Any questions please let me know!

Enjoy!
 

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118 Posts
So I've been working on getting everything I need done for prime wheeling sessions this summer. One of my tasks I had to get done was getting a CB in my rig.

While choosing what I wanted. I decided I wanted something fairly small, but something that still works well. Thats when I found the Cobra 75WXST. It's small and compact, and easy to remove it from the vehicle so you don't have to look at it, or don't have to worry about it being stolen while you have the top off, or doors off.

What was all needed to install?

-Screw Driver
-Pliers
-Random sockets.
-Patience..

Equipment:
-Cobra 75WXST (Cobra CB Radio 75 WX ST All in handset - 75WXST)
-VersaMount (VersaMount - CoolTechLLC)
-Firestick 4Ft'er 900w (Firestik FireFly Tunable Tip Fiberglass CB Antenna)
-Antenna Spring (Firestik SS-3M 3-Inch Medium Duty Stainless Steel Antenna Spring (SS3M))
-Firestik Coax Cable (Firestik 18 foot Fire-Flex coax cable with Fire-Ring - K48R18)

The Install
-----------------------
Now I have the MetalCloak Tire Carrier rear bumper, which sites VERY closely to the rear tail gate. So I had a huge problem using the original EVO mount that I had purchased. So I ended up needing to custom fab, a little L bracket for the swing out tire carrier.


Please do not pay attention to how this is hooked up... I opened things up, and tossed out instructions, and had to learn from trial and error. But from the pics you can see the L bracket that was used.

Once the bracket was done, It was time to start getting things ran. I started with mounting the receiver unit to the void below the glove box.


You remove the glove box, no tools are needed here, you just open your glove box, and push the sides in, and then pull it out. Quick and easy! I used zip ties initially, but will more than likely drill some holes, and mount it appropriately.

Now here is the tricky part, with only 18 feet of line, your sort of limited on how you run things. I originally saw someone run things into a rubber grommet, and through the door, and then through the trim. If you mount this thing on a swing out tail gate like I did, you will have to find another path.. 18 feet doesn't go to far, and wont get to your glove box, even on a JKR.


I started doing it that way...

After finding the failure of my ways. I decided to take a different approach.. My license plate light runs below, and then up to the passenger side tail light. I'm running the MetalCloak EXO Skin, and LED lights. So I removed the tail light, and then push my coax up through a hole that my license plate light is using.



Little bit of a better picture.


Now I can go straight up through the tail light void, to a rubber grommet already in place.





That is that... Running the cable from here was pretty easy, I just had to move some of the carpet out of the way, no tools were needed to do this at all.



Here is where things got a little interesting.. As I was trying to remove trim, It found it pretty hard to do without the FSM, and knowing how to remove the panels. So I opted to go up the piller, and follow the roll cage to the front of the vehicle. This still gave me enough line to reach the radio, and then some. So I unziped, and routed the coax through the roll cage pretty easily. Didn't snap pictures of it. Sorry! Leading my line to the top passenger piller.


As you can see from the pictures. I've got about a foot left, after I run it down to the glove box.

The P-59 barrel screws onto the Coax.. Make sure you pull the grounding down over the black part of the cable. Cable should be grounded to the outside of the barrel. Oh yes, also do not forget to put the screw thingy on there ... Sorry, cannot think of its name, but it is pictured here.



Next we are onto soldering the signal wire for the COAX.

Do not heat it up too much, or you will ruin your barrel, and need to get a new one, which was pretty hard to find. I ended up having to go with a PL-259 barrel from Radioshack.


This is about what it will look like when your done.


Hooked up to the unit.

Now off to run power. Now, I've seen weird grounding issues, and noise when you ground directly to the chassis, so in this case I am running both the positive, and ground to the battery itself. I ran this over the speaker, and then through a hole in the cabin that runs out, and to the battery area.



I saw where went through the front but what does it look like coming from the engine side.
 

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Now off to run power. Now, I've seen weird grounding issues, and noise when you ground directly to the chassis, so in this case I am running both the positive, and ground to the battery itself. I ran this over the speaker, and then through a hole in the cabin that runs out, and to the battery area.

I poked a screwdriver through the filler you show in the last picture but I felt something solid. Where does this come out in the engine bay near the battery? Was there a grommet on the other side? Could you show us a picture?
 

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I poked a screwdriver through the filler you show in the last picture but I felt something solid. Where does this come out in the engine bay near the battery? Was there a grommet on the other side? Could you show us a picture?
There's a little metal plate that blocks about half of the hole on the top end. My best advice would be to take one of those long-arm grabber tools and pull pieces of the foam out until you can see all the way through - then it'll be easier.
 
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