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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I stated in my first post, my daughter bought a '13 JK 2 door and I'm trying to sort out steering issues. The Jeep came equipped with a Rock Jock 4" lift (CE-9808JCE). This kit came with adjustable control arms, adjustable track bars, track bar relocation mounts, Anti-Rock sway bars and a drop pitman arm. It also has a Rock Crawler tie rod (if the sticker on it is to be believed). I'm not sure but I have to think that the drag link is a Rock Crawler product also. The rear Anti-Rock sway bar is in place but disconnected. There is a stock sway bar in place. For some reason, the front Anti-Rock sway bar has been replaced with a Rubicon sway bar and JKS Quick Disconnect links (I just replaced the bushings in those).

After doing some research on this forum and others, I have discovered that the drag link should be as close to horizontal as possible and the track bar should be parallel to the drag link. That is not what I found to be the case. The drop pitman arm is installed and the drag link is flipped. The track bar relocation mount is also installed but it appears that the upper track bar mount is factory. Currently, the upper track bar mounts at least 1", maybe 2", above the drag link in the pitman arm. On the other end, the track bar mount is lower than the drag link at the steering knuckle by at least an inch. In other words, instead of being parallel, the track bar actually crosses the drag link. From what I've read, this can cause significant bump steer.

My question, I guess, is what you would suggest at this point. The drop pitman arm and flipped drag link brings the drag link very close to horizontal. The track bar relocation mount already raises the track bar at the lower end. The only thing I can see doing is lowering, somehow, the upper mounting point of the trackbar.

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I would find a stock pitman arm.
 

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Ok, missed this from our other discussion.... You cannot run a drop Pitman with a drag link flip. Horizontal isn't that important, but parallel is. You need to put back on a stock Pitman arm and then lengthen your front lower control arms around 1/2". My geo brackets are not needed with your adjustable control arms. Whoever set the control arms missed the boat on lengths. And sadly, 4WP did too... That will get you headed in the right direction.

On another note, if you aren't going to run that front Antirock, I'm interested in it. :)
 

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Remove the dropped pitman arm and your green line of the drag link will go up on the drivers side and your drag link and tie rod will be parallel, don't need to be horizontal
 
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