Is my Drag Link/Tie Rod Bent?

1089 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by rsmwrangler, 13 d ago

Keon

Discussion Starter · 15 d ago

My last wheeling trip pushed my JK a bit too far, and I slid off of a rock, and with the wheel turned, slammed my tire into another rock - as a result, my steering wheel is a bit more off-center than it was, and my drag link looks a bit off - although I could be mistaken. Of course, the TCS/ESC light is on too! Before I replace these parts, because my drag link adjustment collar is rusted to the point that it can't be adjusted, I am hoping to get others' opinion on if I bent the steering linkages. Thank you!

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Jester1492

· #2 · 15 d ago

Looks like it to me. Will be interesting to see what others say.

Reactions: 1

Keon

Discussion Starter · #3 · 15 d ago

Jester1492 said:
Looks like it to me. Will be interesting to see what others say.

Thank you for the input! Do you think it's just the drag link, or the tie rod too? The toe angle does not look off to me.

jac04

· #4 · 15 d ago

I agree that the drag link looks bent. It's hard to tell from the pictures if the tie rod is bent.

If the steering wheel is off and the light is on, then one or both of those components are bent.

IMO, replace both the DL and TR.

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Jester1492

· #5 · 15 d ago

Keon said:
Thank you for the input! Do you think it's just the drag link, or the tie rod too? The toe angle does not look off to me.

Maybe, hard to tell. The second picture makes the tie rod look to be bent up a bit and the fourth picture makes it look pushed back a bit. Could just be a matter of perspective. I dont remember for sure but I think the stock tie rod and the drag link are basically (hopefully someone can confirm comment or correct me) so you may be able to tell if you put a straight edge against the tie rod and drag link. Because of the small angles involved, I suspect the only way to really know is to have the alignment checked; although you may be able to get a estimate yourself by doing some measurements.

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Doc222

· #6 · 15 d ago

if you can not adjust the drag link do to rust it needs a new one. To adjust steering wheel angle to center.

Toe is the only thing they can align , i do that with a tap measure. But that is the Tire rod.

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Keon

Discussion Starter · #7 · 15 d ago

Thank you all for the advice! I am about to order a replacement drag link. I found a good deal on a RockJock Currectlync drag link which fits my very tight budget. Reviews seem good, but what do you guys think?
@Pressurized Your input is always super helpful, any advice?

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jeepers29

· #8 · 15 d ago

Synergy has good dl/tr and reasonably priced.

Reactions: 2

Pressurized

· #9 · 15 d ago

Keon said:
Thank you all for the advice! I am about to order a replacement drag link. I found a good deal on a RockJock Currectlync drag link which fits my very tight budget. Reviews seem good, but what do you guys think?
@Pressurized Your input is always super helpful, any advice?

If putting on a steel upgrade, I would choose Yeti or RockJock... So your option is good. I think I'm going to put a Yeti tie rod on mine next month.

Reactions: 1

Keon

Discussion Starter · #10 · 15 d ago

Pressurized said:
If putting on a steel upgrade, I would choose Yeti or RockJock... So your option is good. I think I'm going to put a Yeti tie rod on mine next month.

Thank you. Would you say that the Synergy one is worth the additional cost? Seems that aluminum is out of my budget entirely.

Pressurized

· #11 · 15 d ago

Keon said:
Thank you. Would you say that the Synergy one is worth the additional cost? Seems that aluminum is out of my budget entirely.

The Synergy is nice to adjust... But I like the forged design of the Yeti and RockJock better for a drag link and they aren't hard to adjust. Then I like aluminum for tie rod, but the good 2.5 ton units are big $$ for sure. The aluminum tie rod allows you to hit something without permanently damaging it.

Reactions: 1

rockred

· #12 · 15 d ago

One thing nobody mentioned is the fact that you may have twisted the sector shaft on your steering box when you hit the rock! Twist it two more times and it will break! The PSC steering box has a much stronger sector shaft.

Reactions: 1

Keon

Discussion Starter · #13 · 15 d ago

rockred said:
One thing nobody mentioned is the fact that you may have twisted the sector shaft on your steering box when you hit the rock! Twist it two more times and it will break! The PSC steering box has a much stronger sector shaft.

Reinforcing it is definitely going on my future upgrades list. Unfortunately my budget is a lot tighter than I expected now, so I'm going to stick with the drag link and hit easier trails for now. That trail was significantly harder than I thought, and my rig (my wallet too) simply cannot handle the hits that come from rock crawling in the rain.

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rsmwrangler

· #14 · 15 d ago

I was going to say go full Synergy steering but if you're on a budget you can get an OE DL from Crown for $100 and change, should be ok with your 33's if you're sticking to easy trails

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Crown Automotive Drag Link Assembly Steering , black -52060049K : Automotive

Buy Crown Automotive Drag Link Assembly Steering , black -52060049K: Drag Links - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

2018 JKU Sport S, A5, 4.56's, Eaton rear E-locker, 3" hybrid lift: RK 1.5" coil springs/0.75" spacers, 4.5" BDS Fox 2.0 shocks front / 3" rear, Full Clayton Overland+ Control Arms , Clayton Front TB, Clayton SS relo bracket, Clayton rear TB relo bracket, Synergy 1.5 Chromoly Tierod, Synergy 1.5 Draglink, Synergy TR clamp, Fox 2.0 SS, Superlift Rear TB, Rubicon Sway bar/Evo no limits /MC 12.25" disconnects, Drivelines front 1310 DS, Smittybilt oil/trans skid, Skid Row exhaust loop skid, Rockhard Evap skid, Rockhard rock sliders, Rockhard LCA skids, RE Gas tank skid, Smittybilt MOD front bumper, Smittybilt 9500lbs winch, ORFab rear bumper, Smittybilt HD tire carrier, KBD fenders, BFG KO2 315/70/17 E rated, Rocktrix RT109 17x9 -12 offset wheels, Magnaflow 10416/Dynomax race bullet 24125, Hptuners with my own street tune.
My 18 Sport S build
RSMwrangler Sporticon built - 13 JKU Sport - Sold

Reactions: 1

Victor Ward

· #15 · 14 d ago

Jeep JK Tie Rod - Aluminum Tie Rod Heavy Duty

Affordable aluminum

(link wont work RPM Steering 1 ton Aluminum tie rod)

n3tfury

· #16 · 14 d ago

Victor Ward said:
Jeep JK Tie Rod - Aluminum Tie Rod Heavy Duty

Affordable aluminum

(link wont work RPM Steering 1 ton Aluminum tie rod)

Installing mine next Friday on my next day off.

rsmwrangler

· #17 · 13 d ago (Edited)

Yeah definetely a reminder if you're playing in the rocks is just a matter of time before your OE tierod says goodbye and it normally happens without you even knowing because you won't even feel the tierod hitting. I think for the DL to hit is more difficult given the way the TR is mounted but i guess it's possible per the OP case. My DL has one little scratch compared to my TR.

2023-05-24_10-15-50 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

My TR always hit first sometimes because the vehicle slide off the obstacle or because the person doing the spotting is guiding me the wrong way, i'm not into the "send it" camp so i'm not looking to hit the TR on purpose but it hits rocks a lot, still i like to think i go easy on my stuff and I have yet to bother with my TR in 2 years. Synergy in my steering gives a lot of peice of mind.
This is my Jeep this past weekend, ended up hitting my TR again and again. I blame my spotter this time

Here is how i scratched the DL, lol. None of the OE weak steering parts would have survived a single hit. My synergy steering just laugh at this stuff and it's been laughing for 2 years. Again i have yet to bother with my steering since install, it's been set it and forget it ready to hit trails and hit whatever you put in their front. lol

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2018 JKU Sport S, A5, 4.56's, Eaton rear E-locker, 3" hybrid lift: RK 1.5" coil springs/0.75" spacers, 4.5" BDS Fox 2.0 shocks front / 3" rear, Full Clayton Overland+ Control Arms , Clayton Front TB, Clayton SS relo bracket, Clayton rear TB relo bracket, Synergy 1.5 Chromoly Tierod, Synergy 1.5 Draglink, Synergy TR clamp, Fox 2.0 SS, Superlift Rear TB, Rubicon Sway bar/Evo no limits /MC 12.25" disconnects, Drivelines front 1310 DS, Smittybilt oil/trans skid, Skid Row exhaust loop skid, Rockhard Evap skid, Rockhard rock sliders, Rockhard LCA skids, RE Gas tank skid, Smittybilt MOD front bumper, Smittybilt 9500lbs winch, ORFab rear bumper, Smittybilt HD tire carrier, KBD fenders, BFG KO2 315/70/17 E rated, Rocktrix RT109 17x9 -12 offset wheels, Magnaflow 10416/Dynomax race bullet 24125, Hptuners with my own street tune.
My 18 Sport S build
RSMwrangler Sporticon built - 13 JKU Sport - Sold

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