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Discussion Starter #1
We always wondered why the car moves from side to size, just pushing the jeep with minimal force sways the jeep pretty hard

Video:
https://imgur.com/a/rUudhDp


What should I torque the sway bar to? Should I get new hardware?



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We always wondered why the car moves from side to size, just pushing the jeep with minimal force sways the jeep pretty hard

Video:
https://imgur.com/a/rUudhDp


What should I torque the sway bar to? Should I get new hardware?



Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

https://www.spohn.net/shop/Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Unlimited-4-Door/Suspension-Lift-Kits/Track-Bars-Track-Bar-Brackets/Rear-Track-Bars-Rear-Track-Bar-Brackets/Rear-Upper-Track-Bar-Mount-Brace.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiK68xNvd5gIVg5-zCh1soQELEAQYCCABEgK_yfD_BwE


You might need something like this above now. I think the bolt hole is elongated. You need to take the bolt out and check, a competent welder could fix it also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crap, it's welded to the frame. You think a welder can fill the hole and drill a new one in?

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Looks like the end of the track bar bolt took a beating on your bump stop.
 

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Crap, it's welded to the frame. You think a welder can fill the hole and drill a new one in?

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Definitely, or weld a washer on either side to true up the hole, but if you read the description of the part I noted it sounds like the perfect solution, that you can do yourself and it seems like it will be stronger. Welding isn't inexpensive unless you do it yourself or know someone.
 

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ditch that bumpstop. that is a bad design.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The bolt and bolt pattern appears to be different than the other side of the track bar where it meets on the axle. Should both bolts be identical? It doesnt even have a washer like the other side that appears to be more OEM



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Discussion Starter #11
Realized even the oem size is wrong. The nut and washer is not oem. Fricken 4WP

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Discussion Starter #13
Is this too much play for the stock oem bolt? (Went to dealership to get proper bolt and nut)

I got a welder lined up to come out and weld a grade H washer, pending the internets response :)



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Is this too much play for the stock oem bolt? (Went to dealership to get proper bolt and nut)

I got a welder lined up to come out and weld a grade H washer, pending the internets response :)



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that should be fine but you need to torq it to 125 ft/lbs.
 

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It appears that the bump stop has taken a hell of a beating. Looks bent and dented if I am looking at the right part?????
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It appears that the bump stop has taken a hell of a beating. Looks bent and dented if I am looking at the right part?????
Yep, I removed it so it'sits no longer there. It did take a beat down.

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Discussion Starter #17
that should be fine but you need to torq it to 125 ft/lbs.
Done deal. Feels so much better, this entire time I thought it was just part of the ride from a lift but now it feels sturdy and doesnt make any more noises. Incredible what a loose bolt can do.

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Done deal. Feels so much better, this entire time I thought it was just part of the ride from a lift but now it feels sturdy and doesnt make any more noises. Incredible what a loose bolt can do.

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Well of course it does. It’s kind of an important part.
 

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Done deal. Feels so much better, this entire time I thought it was just part of the ride from a lift but now it feels sturdy and doesnt make any more noises. Incredible what a loose bolt can do.

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now go over every other bolt and nut with the torq wrench. I have often found poeple have loose front track bar bolts and control arm bolts. They loosen up over time.
 
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