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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the 2016 JKU 75th edition and looking to finally begin some real changes, starting with a lift kit. I'm not going too high as I need to accommodate a typical 6'-8" garage all the time. So 2.5 seems like the right size and 33/34 inch tires on the 17th rims later.

As for geo correction kits vs more expensive solutions, I'm not stuck on either really. I don't plan to go mudding and rock crawling will not be happening either. But I do like quality in things I try to do.
 

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If you search the forum there are a TON of posts regarding this very topic. Try that first as a lot of your questions have already been answered.
 

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My thoughts...

you are going yo get more than 2.5" with the lift. Lifts today are designed with additional weight added. With out the additional weight ( bumpers front and rear. Possible winch) you are be looking at 3, 3+ in lift.

My $.02
 

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A spacer based lift gives you exactly the height of the spacer. A 2.5" spacer lift will give you 2.5" of height increase. But a spring lift will often give you an increase in ride quality. The spacer will have the same spring rate as it had with just the stock spring, the spacer does not change the spring rate.
That said, there area couple well known 2.5" lift options. Teraflex offers both 2.5" spring lifts and a 2.5" spacer lift. Their 2.5" spring kit is the basis of the most popular lift on WF. You could build the same lift starting with their spacer lift if you wanted. Another common option is the Mopar 2" lift, which tends to deliver closer to 3". Then there is RK, AEV (they also have both a spacer lift, 2", and a spring lift, 2.5"), Rancho, etc. If you don't want much more than 2" and you want a spring based lift, I would look at a 1.5" kit. TF has a 1.5" leveling kit. RK has a 1.5" series of lifts, just pick the one that has the parts / options you want.
First question would be what do you expect from your lift?
As to adjustable / longer lower control arms vs geometry brackets, the brackets give a better ride quality but slightly reduce your ground clearance because they hang down. It is typically not an issue on the two door, but some people with four doors may have an issue with that, especially at lower lift heights.. I have a four door and went with the lower control arms because we use pretty much ALL our ground clearance and then some. We are trying to keep it as low as we can and still clear what we use our Jeep for. Nothing too hard core, but we do like to get out there.
 

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Again, just an opinion but IF you are only going 33-34 inch tires a 2.5" lift which will go up probably 3-3.25" is going to be too much and bring with it a host of unnecessary complications ....
 

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I just recieved my new Metalcloak 2.5" Overland lift kit a day ago. Decided to compare the new metalcloak front spring to the OEM front spring from a '17 JKUR Hard Rock edition.

It is exactly 3.5" longer than the factory spring.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Again, just an opinion but IF you are only going 33-34 inch tires a 2.5" lift which will go up probably 3-3.25" is going to be too much and bring with it a host of unnecessary complications ....
you mean the gap between tire and fender will be so excessive it;ll cause issues? I do have the heavier 75th bumpers, if that matters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been compiling links to different kits - and the prices vary a lot. Can someone explain how one kit is just springs and shocks, and another has a bunch of other parts? I get that having more "bits" can be better - but I don't understand the why. Where do you draw the line in value on this sort of stuff? Is the stuff past the shock and spring just "pretty" and not needed? if needed, why?

Any insight is appreciated.

AEV 2.5" DualSport XT Suspension System for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler JK
$980

Teraflex 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/ Shocks (07-17 Wrangler JK 2 Door)
$750

Procomp 2.5 INCH LIFT KIT WITH ES9000 SHOCKS
$530


2.5IN JEEP SUSPENSION LIFT KIT (07-17 WRANGLER JK UNLIMITED)

$330
 
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I've been compiling links to different kits - and the prices vary a lot. Can someone explain how one kit is just springs and shocks, and another has a bunch of other parts? I get that having more "bits" can be better - but I don't understand the why. Where do you draw the line in value on this sort of stuff? Is the stuff past the shock and spring just "pretty" and not needed? if needed, why?

Any insight is appreciated.

AEV 2.5" DualSport XT Suspension System for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler JK
$980

Teraflex 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/ Shocks (07-17 Wrangler JK 2 Door)
$750

Procomp 2.5 INCH LIFT KIT WITH ES9000 SHOCKS
$530


2.5IN JEEP SUSPENSION LIFT KIT (07-17 WRANGLER JK UNLIMITED)

$330
Some lifts come with the proper geometry correction needed for a lift. You can do a 2.5" lift without geometry correction as sold by manufactures. But we do not suggest it. If you are using your jeep as a DD geometry brackets are fine. Can even do some mild off roading. But as you stated you wont be. Rancho makes a great 2" lift with Rancho 5000 shocks that would work great for your set up.

2-in. PROGRESSIVE SPORT SYSTEM 5000X

We also carry RK, Teraflex, And a lot of other brands. Send me a pm and we can get you set up with the lift best for your needs.

-JP
 

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I've been compiling links to different kits - and the prices vary a lot. Can someone explain how one kit is just springs and shocks, and another has a bunch of other parts? I get that having more "bits" can be better - but I don't understand the why. Where do you draw the line in value on this sort of stuff? Is the stuff past the shock and spring just "pretty" and not needed? if needed, why?

Any insight is appreciated.

AEV 2.5" DualSport XT Suspension System for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler JK
$980

Teraflex 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/ Shocks (07-17 Wrangler JK 2 Door)
$750

Procomp 2.5 INCH LIFT KIT WITH ES9000 SHOCKS
$530


2.5IN JEEP SUSPENSION LIFT KIT (07-17 WRANGLER JK UNLIMITED)

$330
As you lift the Jeep, a number of things begin to change. Your caster decreases, your front axle shifts to the drivers side, your rear axle shifts to the passenger side, both sway bars lose operating angle, the rear axle develops thrust angle, your brake lines get stretched, etc. Then there are other factors, like when you put on longer shocks, you need to add bump stops to protect them from bottoming out. Cheap kits usually correct very little if any of that and expensive kits fix most if not all of it...

The AEV is a nice kit, but there are still things we recommend to do with that kit. It doesn't correct caster for example. Same with the Teraflex kit, no caster correction... But if you look at the WF most popular kit, it fixes those short comings with options of geometry brackets or control arms.

https://www.allensoffroad.com/suspe...x-1351002-RS9000XL-Caster-Correction-KJ-Combo

http://www.krawloff-road.com/product_p/kjeeper10.htm

I like that kit with the geometry brackets and the Rancho 5000X 29/30 shocks. That's about $810.

Pro Comp and Rough Country have poor reputations for ride quality.
 

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I've been compiling links to different kits - and the prices vary a lot. Can someone explain how one kit is just springs and shocks, and another has a bunch of other parts? I get that having more "bits" can be better - but I don't understand the why. Where do you draw the line in value on this sort of stuff? Is the stuff past the shock and spring just "pretty" and not needed? if needed, why?

Any insight is appreciated.

AEV 2.5" DualSport XT Suspension System for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler JK
$980

Teraflex 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/ Shocks (07-17 Wrangler JK 2 Door)
$750

Procomp 2.5 INCH LIFT KIT WITH ES9000 SHOCKS
$530


2.5IN JEEP SUSPENSION LIFT KIT (07-17 WRANGLER JK UNLIMITED)

$330
The thing to keep in mind is that NO lift kit is ever 100% complete. The closest kits that come to being 100% complete are the MetalCloak Game changer lifts, which also happen to be one of the more expensive lifts, due to their completeness.

With that said.......

Anytime you do a suspension lift, what you are doing is changing the geometry of the entire suspension from its original design which has been optimized for the best ride, steering, handling, etc. The end goal is to get back to that originally designed geometry with the added lift. So what is truly needed is that you should replace every suspension component that connects to the axles so that it has a proportionate amount of increase in length to the additional height you added for the lift increase.

Replacing every component is also the most expensive solution. Therefore, with most of these lift kits, what they do is they provide a compromise of replacement components and some type of adapter which fits between one of the original part's mounting points and the original component or don't provide a replacement at all. The adapter and not replacing are compromise solutions. The adapter increased the overall length of that original component to match the amount of lift added but it didn't actually increase the length of the actual component, the not replacing is that someone made a decision for you and considered the original component is not impacted enough that it can still be used or they are trying to sell you an additional component which is not included if you discover a problem after the fact. The real end game is to replace all those original components with one of the proper length to match the lift amount.....and getting a perceived better component while doing that.

99% of the components that are impacted when you lift are connected to the axles, where the other side of that component is typically connected to the frame.

With the lesser cost lifts, what they will do is either not replace those original components because the lift amount isn't large enough where the original part will still function adequately. It won't function 100% properly but it will still serve its main purpose.

The upgrade from not including a replacement component is to use an adapter/extension bracket, solution and then from there is the most costly option of entirely replacing the original component with the longer length one.

All the lifts out there will be a mix and match of those combinations of not replacing, adding a bracket extension, or replacing each and every component that attaches to the axles. The more included components that are replaced, typically the higher the cost of the lift will be.

Here is the short list of components that all connect to the axles that will have some type of impact or be impacted when you do a suspension lift on a JK Jeep Wrangler.

A good rule of thumb is that the higher you lift, the more you drive yourself towards the need for the replacement part solutions.

A good way to shop for lifts is to try to listen to brand name advise to narrow down your initial selection choices. Be aware, lift brand name recommendations are a pretty passionate, opinionated, and subjective topic on the Jeep forums. Once you've narrow down your choices, then ignore all that name brand hype/advise and start doing an Apples to Apples comparison between the lift kit contents you've narrowed your selection down to and then compare the included components vs total price. You will be able to get yourself to a more educated purchasing decision in regards to the value you're actually getting with each lift by getting to that Apples to Apples comparison point. To get to that point, you will need to identify the missing components from each of the lifts and see how much that missing component would additionally cost to add it to that particular lift. All these components are available separately from all the different vendors. You should get yourself to a point where each of the items listed below are addressed in some manner or another, and you should additionally spend some time educating yourself enough on what each part's function does to make a more educated decision in determining if you would like to add that component to the lift to address that concern item or decide this isn't something that seems important enought to you, that you could live without it but are now aware of the impact of not having it, and then be able to make a more informed decision later once you've evaluated the lift without that particular item.

End game replacement list of components
- Springs (4)
- Shocks (4)
- Control Arms (8)
- Sway bar links (4)
- Track bars (2)
- Drive shafts (2)
- Brake Lines (4)
- Breather hoses (2)
- Axle side Control Arm mounting brackets (8) - need to be relocated or replace with axle that has relocated brackets
- Rear parking brake cable

Note: For 2012+ JKs, the Front Driveshaft replacement is one of those items that is typically left out of the majority of lift kits out there. Many will learn afterwards that the exhaust interferes with the drive shaft after lifting due to the added suspension flex capability where your drive shaft boot eventually gets tore up and you need to replace the drive shaft.

Then there's the steering components to consider as well, especially if you start going above 3.5in height and plan to add tires 35in+ in diameter.
- Drag link
- Tie rod
- Pitman arm


The corresponding compromise adapter/solution components
- Springs (4)= Pucks
- Shocks (4)= Shock extension brackets
- Control Arms (8)= (2)Front Geo correction brackets/(2)Cam bolts
- Sway bar links (4)= Typically replace rears and relocate longer oem rears to front.
- Track bars (2)= Track bar relocation mounting brackets
- Drive shafts (2)= Exhaust spacers (needed for 2012+ JKs), Rzeppa CV Kit
- Brake Lines (4)= Brake line relocation extension brackets
- Breather hoses (2)= Breather hose extension kits
- Axle side Control Arm mounting brackets (8)= Leave as is
- Rear parking brake cable= Parking brake drop bracket/detach existing mounting location
- (2012+)Front Driveshaft replacement= Exhaust Spacers

So every suspension lift you look at will be a combination solution of 1. Replace the part 2. Add an adapter to existing part or 3. Leave as is and that's the reason for the differences in prices and the quantity of components.

Once you learn more about what each of those components does, then you can make better informed decisions if you choose to leave it as is, the adapter solution is acceptable, or you want to go for a replacement component solution.


If I was to further break down my lift which is the Mopar 2in lift, into those 3 categories of 1. Leave as is 2. Adapter or 3. replace, it would look like below. Everyone elses will be different depending on their budget, uses, and goals they're trying to achieve for their lift. Thus, the reason those questions are typically asked first in these types of discussions where someone is asking for assistance on choosing a lift.

- Springs (4)
L/F=Replace
R/F=Replace
L/R=Replace
R/R=Replace


- Shocks (4)
L/F=Replace
R/F=Replace
L/R=Replace
R/R=Replace


- Control Arms (8)
Fronts
Upper L/F= Leave as is
Lower L/F= Replace
Upper R/F= Leave as is
Lower R/F= Replace

Rears
Upper L/R= Leave as is
Lower L/R= Leave as is
Upper R/R= Leave as is
Lower R/R= Leave as is


- Sway bar links (4)
L/F=Replace
R/F=Replace
L/R=Replace
R/R=Replace


- Track bars (2)

Front=Replace
Rear=Adapter

- Drive shafts (2)
Front= Leave as is
Rear= Leave as is

*Note: I have a 2009 which doesn't have the front DS exhaust interference problem due to different exhaust routing. If I had a 2012+, I would have gone with a Front Drive shaft replacement.

- Brake Lines (4)

L/F=Adapter
R/F=Adapter

L/R=Leave as is
R/R=Leave as is


- Axle Breather hoses (2)

Front=Adapter
Rear=Adapter


- Axle side Control Arm mounting brackets (8)
Front=Leave as is
Rear=Leave as is


- Rear parking brake cable

Rear=Adapter

Steering components
- Drag link=Replace
- Tie rod=Replace

- Pitman arm=Leave as is
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you very much rednroll for the detailed breakdown.

In your build, which is 2", you had a good mix of replace and leave as is. In your opinion, as a daily driver but not off roading, and at 2 1/2" lift, can you break down the replace/leave I should be looking to do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I recently got a quote from a local shop. They were recommending a 3" lift at the time. Since I'm keeping the tires until next year and my fiance is 5'-1" I'm going to go with 2 1/2" lift instead.

Looking at the quote I'm not sure they are covering the things mentioned here.
 

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I recently got a quote from a local shop. They were recommending a 3" lift at the time. Since I'm keeping the tires until next year and my fiance is 5'-1" I'm going to go with 2 1/2" lift instead.

Looking at the quote I'm not sure they are covering the things mentioned here.
You can run the tires on their quote with no lift at all... Plus the Zone lift is average at best and alignment cams are not recommended.
 

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Since this is a daily driver get a leveling kit like this, https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528ffa7fead962f416e72d2a

Or get a lift that is built properly, MetalClock, AEV, Teraflex, etc. My recomendation would be this:

JK Overland Sport Kit RockSport Shocks

This is the heart and sole of your vehicle. If you half ass it you will hate it. So many people try to save money when it comes to lifts it funny, this is something your life depends on. And don't think of a simple spacer lift as not being quality. It does exactly what it is designed to do and will last for years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the recommendation TerryC6. That kit is pretty sweet looking and seems to have all the bits, even the brake line extensions.

I've got no plans on cheap, just don't want to waste my money more than I already do.

So your opinion is that not building in all the extras in this kit will reflect somehow in the vehicle or down the line? Just making sure this is an opinion you feel strongly about.
 

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you mean the gap between tire and fender will be so excessive it;ll cause issues? I do have the heavier 75th bumpers, if that matters.
Sorry. Was installing side steps on my Wife's Jeep. I see others gave detailed answers to what I was alluding to.
 

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Thanks for the recommendation TerryC6. That kit is pretty sweet looking and seems to have all the bits, even the brake line extensions.

I've got no plans on cheap, just don't want to waste my money more than I already do.

So your opinion is that not building in all the extras in this kit will reflect somehow in the vehicle or down the line? Just making sure this is an opinion you feel strongly about.
I think it is an excellent kit and it will allow you if you choose to upgrade to this: http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Wrangler-Game-Changing-Suspension-Lift-Kit-p/7110.htm which is what I have and am very pleased.

Of course I choose that kit because I like to play in the rocks but it also does very good on the road. The ride is firm but not harsh. We take our Jeep all over the country and my wife is just fine in it. The only issue you might have is the lift height. When they mean 2.5 inches in a fully decked Jeep they mean it. My Jeep is heavy and I still have more than 2.5 inches of lift. But my has always been parked in the garage. I would measure the door opening but I am on one of the road trips again. I love being retired.
 
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