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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!


So I am *trying* to remove my stock JK front driveshaft to replace it with an adams and for the life of me i can't get this thing off.


It's a 2018 sahara with AT ~17600miles. I am completely stuck on the front 15MM bolts. I can't get them to budge. At first i just hit them with wd40 and nothing...then pb blasted them days and let it sit over night - nothing. Now i've hit it with KROIL a few times and still nothing.


I put the jeep in 4hi, park, jeep on the ground and the DS spins just a little bit as I try to unbolt the front bolts. I have tried a 6pt wrench, 6pt socket, and an amazon impact wrench.



I'm debating about using a breaker bar on it BUT - I really would prefer not breaking those 4 15MM bolts and also the adams DS I have uses the stock pinion flange. I'm also a bit worried that if i continue to put force on the bolts the DS may spin too much and break something in the pinion/tcase



Any tips/pointers on best way to get these 4x 15MM bolts off without breaking something? Bolt heads are basically fine - not a grip issue and doesn't appear to be much/any rust.



Should I remove the t-case side first? i've watched plenty of DS removal guides and they switch off - but it seems like the common theme is to remove the pinion bolts first as to stop the DS from moving.
 

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While I would think nothing of using a breaker bar on those bolts, in practice I just hit it with an impact wrench (air or battery) and they come of. I can't put as much force on the bolt with a breaker bar as my impact wrench can.
You can't apply more force to the pinion as the engine does, so no need to worry about breaking anything in my opinion.
 

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Hit them with some heat they have lock tite on them
 

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I had the same problem. No wrench would touch them, the 24" breaker bar bent and my inventory of impacts did nothing.

I bought the Harbor Freight 1/2" drive Earthquake impact. That did the trick and really easy too if I might add.
 

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A strong impact is needed. They have lock tite from the factory.
 

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unfortunately i don't have a normal torch (and would prefer not to venture out to the hardware store during this time)


However, i do have a cooking torch which via testing can get a screw red hot. So i'll give that a try today.


Thanks for all the tips and advice!
 

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unfortunately i don't have a normal torch (and would prefer not to venture out to the hardware store during this time)


However, i do have a cooking torch which via testing can get a screw red hot. So i'll give that a try today.


Thanks for all the tips and advice!
that will work fine in fact I would not get them red hot. just hit them to get them hot front and back sides to soften the locktite. The lock tite is blue but it really is not like most blue locktite.
 

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unfortunately i don't have a normal torch (and would prefer not to venture out to the hardware store during this time)


However, i do have a cooking torch which via testing can get a screw red hot. So i'll give that a try today.


Thanks for all the tips and advice!
That torch will work.
Warm them up, and hit 'em with your impact
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for all the help!


a few seconds of flame to the thread and head, then the impact was enough to break them loose.





also worked with a little kroil on my last tcase flange bolt that i almost rounded off.
 

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thanks for all the help!


a few seconds of flame to the thread and head, then the impact was enough to break them loose.





also worked with a little kroil on my last tcase flange bolt that i almost rounded off.
Yup, anything that's got loctite comes off much easier with a little hit.
Glad it worked out for you
 

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On my 13 I was able to break them with a 2" breaker bar without issue.

My issue was how the DS was bonded to the transfer case.

I had to pb blaster it, hit it, tap it, i used a little heat, more tapping, more pb blaster, finially could tell where it was going to separate, and more tapping before it finally came out.

I'm giving it a healthy coat of anti-sieze prior to re-install. Salt-belt area doesn't help.
 

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On my 13 I was able to break them with a 2" breaker bar without issue.

My issue was how the DS was bonded to the transfer case.

I had to pb blaster it, hit it, tap it, i used a little heat, more tapping, more pb blaster, finially could tell where it was going to separate, and more tapping before it finally came out.

I'm giving it a healthy coat of anti-sieze prior to re-install. Salt-belt area doesn't help.
you sir have super human strength...I would be afraid to shake your hand and I used to run a jack hammer for 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On my 13 I was able to break them with a 2" breaker bar without issue.

My issue was how the DS was bonded to the transfer case.

I had to pb blaster it, hit it, tap it, i used a little heat, more tapping, more pb blaster, finially could tell where it was going to separate, and more tapping before it finally came out.

I'm giving it a healthy coat of anti-sieze prior to re-install. Salt-belt area doesn't help.

that part was easy on mine. on the front it took 2 strikes of a rubber mallet, on the rear it took 2 strikes of a ballpeen to get a crack and then a simple pry bar had it loose.



Still kicking myself for not just heating the threads on the DS; would have a few hundred miles on the new one by now :pullinghair:
 
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