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Discussion Starter #1
I know I know I know...there鈥檚 plenty of posts out there discussing about tj鈥檚 overheating. So here is what I鈥檝e done; I鈥檝e changed the radiator (oem) autozone brand perhaps idk but definitely not mopar. It also has a new water pump, thermostat & housing, clutch fan and all gaskets, oh and all new hoses as well. Now it seems to cruise around 210 while driving but say it鈥檚 Tuesday and I want tacos from Taco Bell, I pull up to the drive thru and there鈥檚 a few car ordering as well.... my shit will start rising. Eventually, if I don鈥檛 move it will continue to creep up till the check engine lights up. I don鈥檛 know what else to do. Ppl say that OEM radiators should be sufficient and buying an all aluminum radiator is pointless. But that鈥檚 all I have left to go to...an upgrade. What do you guys suggest....change the thermostat to a lower temperature one or upgrade to an aluminum radiator?
 

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You already know that Auto Zone OEM is NOT Mopar. Get a FACTORY radiator. Nothing else works as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
But they run about $200....馃槱 I mean what鈥檚 the difference other than the brand name. It just don鈥檛 make any sense. If it were to be like an electronic part than yes I get it. But it鈥檚 simple mechanics.
I feel like it鈥檚 something else....馃 is there any chance the fancould of gone in backwards?.. or would the thermostat fit IF it was put in backwards as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wait.... I just remembered something...the water in the reservoir keeps going low....yet no leaks anywhere.
 

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The next to last radiator I'd install is a store brand and the very LAST store brand I'd install is a Duralast from Autozone. Seriously.

Most overheating cases are solved simply by going back to the OEM Mopar radiator. It has serious cooling capabilities with a good amount of excess cooling capacity.

My local wheeling is primarily done in SoCal deserts and there's no clamoring there to run anything but the Mopar. It's seriously a much better radiator than some can believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You haven鈥檛 bled out all the air in the system. Describe your bleed technique ...


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I didn鈥檛 bled anything out just poured the anti freeze and added more after it ran for a few mins and it did it鈥檚 cycle. 馃槵馃槵
 

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Mishimoto double row works very well duning in a desert climate so I have to disagree
  • Mishimoto has earned a reputation for mixed quality and leaks. The number of rows has no direct effect on cooling ability. Mopar converted from a 2 row to a 1 row design in mid-99 which resulted in better cooling characteristics. 3 rows are not always better than 1 row.
 

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  • Mishimoto has earned a reputation for mixed quality and leaks. The number of rows has no direct effect on cooling ability. Mopar converted from a 2 row to a 1 row design in mid-99 which resulted in better cooling characteristics. 3 rows are not always better than 1 row.
Not disputing things but curious how a 1 row can cool better than a 2 or 3. More air flow, better heat transfer because of that? Anyhow back to the original problem. In your words it seems fine moving? then when sitting it heats up. To me that says there is a problem with air movement when sitting. New fan clutch? thermal, non thermal? AZone valucrap? When it starts to cook if you shut it down and by hand spin the fan does it free wheel 2-3 turns before stopping? Id certainly start with the fan clutch. The burping part. If you just filled t up and when on your way its no wonder your losing coolant in the overflow. Generally speaking what works is to park the the vehicle nose high when at all possible which helps get t he trapped air up and out the radiator cap hole. Fill it slowly with 50/50 mix NOT 100% coolant.Water is the best for removing heat but water alone has its shortcomings so more coolant is NOT better. You can burp the hoses by hand even and you'd be surprised how much air will come out still. Once filled best you can, cap it and run it but at some point soon after the work done you'll need to verify the rad is full and the recovery bottle is where it needs to be, 1/2 way or whatever.
 

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yes, you can install a thermostat upside down, and that will interrupt circulation, which should cause overheating very quickly. Plenty of videos online showing the correct direction. to get the air out, warm up the jeep to open the thermostat but leave the radiator cap off, turn heater on full blast hot, then carefully reach your hand around the upper hose and burp it by squeezing to move air bubbles up into the radiator. with the cap off you should be able to see the level as well, so you can tell if you need to add anything.

turn the jeep off then while it's still warm, burp the lower hose as well to see if any air comes out.

if you are losing water in the make up tank, it maybe going on the ground when the engine overheats, or you have a lot of air trapped in the system and it's slowly working it's way out.

if the aftermarket radiator is really crummy, you could return it and try the OEM route or other "good" radiator to see if that helps, but I am guessing that you have some things to try first. when you changed the radiator did you completely drain and flush the system and add new coolant of the correct type and ratio of distilled water? Assuming you did, then getting the air out is the next step.

On the TJ there is an engine block coolant drain plug that you can open as you fill the engine to make sure you get all the air out - I did not have to do this on my JK - but I read it here:


good luck.
 

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When it is starting to overheat, does the air blow hot from the heater, if it does not then you probably have some air trapped in the heater core. Another thought is the condition of the coolant passages, they might be restricted due to crap in the system, have you done a coolant flush? If not that might be what is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yes, you can install a thermostat upside down, and that will interrupt circulation, which should cause overheating very quickly. Plenty of videos online showing the correct direction. to get the air out, warm up the jeep to open the thermostat but leave the radiator cap off, turn heater on full blast hot, then carefully reach your hand around the upper hose and burp it by squeezing to move air bubbles up into the radiator. with the cap off you should be able to see the level as well, so you can tell if you need to add anything.

turn the jeep off then while it's still warm, burp the lower hose as well to see if any air comes out.

if you are losing water in the make up tank, it maybe going on the ground when the engine overheats, or you have a lot of air trapped in the system and it's slowly working it's way out.

if the aftermarket radiator is really crummy, you could return it and try the OEM route or other "good" radiator to see if that helps, but I am guessing that you have some things to try first. when you changed the radiator did you completely drain and flush the system and add new coolant of the correct type and ratio of distilled water? Assuming you did, then getting the air out is the next step.

On the TJ there is an engine block coolant drain plug that you can open as you fill the engine to make sure you get all the air out - I did not have to do this on my JK - but I read it here:


good luck.
This sounds way more logical than just going out and buy brand new parts.
All this started a few yrs back when I was out of town and my sister in law was staying with my wife and she needed to go out and run some arrends. Wife calls me and tells me that the Jeep had overheated and blown the radiator. In law was so scared that she had a guy friend fix it so she bought the radiator from autozone. The guy couldn鈥檛 take the fan off so left the job undone. I was still out of town and I knew I wasn鈥檛 gonna have any time to fix it when I get back so I decided to call the insurance to send me a tow truck to thane it towed over to a local shop. I had him replace the radiator and the thermostat.
It was working fine for that year till summer in AZ got here and it started overheating again. That鈥檚 when I change the water pump, thermostat, housing and all new antifreeze 50/50. And ever since it鈥檚 been overheating. Over all I think it鈥檚 been about 3 yrs.

I鈥檒l try to do the cleanse and burp any air trapped in there. And while I鈥檓 at it I鈥檒l probably change the thermostat since it鈥檚 pretty easy to change. I would take a look at it but either way ima have to replace the gasket for that so might as well change it out.

AAAAAAND with all this troubleshooting if nothing works...would swapping the clutch fan to an electric fan work any better. I have notice that keeping the idle slightly above 1,000 it helps it stay in proper range. Versus if I just let it idle itself it stays well below 1k but that鈥檚 when it will start creeping up.
 
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