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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm only making this tread because in all my research I could not find definite answers or pictures from anyone who has fit the J8 kit who also has a compressor under the hood, remote clutch reservoir and the dual horn setup on later JKs

What it takes:
Mopar P5160050 master cylinder & brake booster kit
ARB High Output single stage compressor (or similar size)
Evo Mfg JK compressor mount 1907
Willwood 260-10500 4oz remote reservoir

Notes:
You need to completely unmount the plastic tray that holds the ABS unit and ECU in order to make enough space to fit the master into the brake booster. This is not mentioned in the install instructions

If you run the bolts downward through the base of the compressor and into the Evo mount you will need to use a cut off wheel to remove the excess bolt flush with the nuts on the underside of the Evo mount so they do not contact the booster. If you get an old stock Evo mount you may have to drill a hole to accommodate the dual horn of later JKs

Many people use the Willwood 260-11098 reservoir. The tubing has a 1/4"ID and I found that hard as hell to get on to my clutch master to the point that I gave up. I used the Willwood part listed above because its still compact and has a 3/8"ID which I find to be just a hair too large but that's what hose clams are for. Don't get me wrong here, I'm completely confident in the fit with a clamp but a 5/16"ID tube would be ideal. The lower portion of the reservoir needed to be trimmed up a bit to to mount up against the plastic tray ahead of the ABS unit. Just drill holes and run bolts through, easy-peassy but don't drill into the wire harness it covers

Don't worry... lockers are on the work bench!
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Thanks for sharing your information. I am on the fence on whether I want to do this or not. I learned the hard way that my slightly "oversized" crown MC doesn't work with J8 booster. I didn't realize that Jeep changed the MC bolt width and Booster-MC mating surface and seal on the J8 kit. I have the correct J8 booster sitting in storage but I haven't purchased a new clutch reservoir or J8 MC. I'll have to look for an alternative location for the clutch reservoir as I have a Spod knock-off and a bracket above booster to hold a welder control box. I'm running out of space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for sharing your information. I am on the fence on whether I want to do this or not. I learned the hard way that my slightly "oversized" crown MC doesn't work with J8 booster. I didn't realize that Jeep changed the MC bolt width and Booster-MC mating surface and seal on the J8 kit. I have the correct J8 booster sitting in storage but I haven't purchased a new clutch reservoir or J8 MC. I'll have to look for an alternative location for the clutch reservoir as I have a Spod knock-off and a bracket above booster to hold a welder control box. I'm running out of space.
Oh yeah, I commented on your build thread about the 1/4"ID hose being a bear to fit up to the clutch master.
Get this thing mounted, the difference is unreal! I've had the Crown BBK installed for a year and it was the most underwhelming product I've ever sent money on... because you need this kit! I cant wait to try it out in four low. Before this I had to stand on the brake to slow it down in 4L
 

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Notes:
You need to completely unmount the plastic tray that holds the ABS unit and ECU in order to make enough space to fit the master into the brake booster. This is not mentioned in the install instructions
This is not mentioned because it's not necessary. If you simply slip both the booster and then the master loosely into place before installing any of the nuts everything falls right in. Then you can put the nuts on both and tighten everything up. Yes, it is close quarters but nowhere as difficult as some might let on. I've done this a number of times, a couple of which for guys that couldn't figure it out, and never had an issue. The only thing I do to make things easier is to remove the inner fender to allow access through the wheel well to a couple of the nuts.
 

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Agreed that the ABS doesn’t need to be unbolted. I also removed my fender, makes it so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I guess a few of us have a difference of opinion. I saw no need to remove the inner fender liner. Everything is easily accessible from up top. Moving that plastic tray was a must for me and I do advise it so that you have some space to be absolutely sure you don’t drop the booster rod
 

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I was really hoping this was a thread on how to do the J8 conversion w/ the dual ARB compressor set up. Darn.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I feel ya man
I have seen zero evidence of anyone pulling off the dual compressor under the hood with the J8 kit. If you do post it up because the single sucks
 
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