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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I spun out in some black ice and did some damage to the undercarriage. While it was in the shop, I went ahead and had them lift it. It's a Teraflex shop, so this is what I'm getting...

Teraflex 3" Coil Lift w/ 9550 Shocks
Adjustable Teraflex track bars front and rear.
Teraflex Disconnects
33" Cooper STT's on some 15x8 AR23's.

Will still be running stock control arms, and no new driveshaft.


Like any good jeeper, I'm already planning the next upgrade. I'm probably going to have to get some sliders with a step, but I'm considering that part of *this* phase, even if it will be a few months out.

I'd like to prepare for the Savvy under armor belly up skid plate. That means 1.25" body lift, and 1" MML in my near future, on top of the 3" coil lift.

My question is, can I do that work without having to sweat a double cardan driveshaft or set of adjustable control arms to set the pinion in the back? and/or front?

It's a 2004 TJ Rubicon with the 5spd Manual.

I recognize that when I actually do the tummy tuck, I'm probably have to do one or both of those changes, but I'd like to get as much done as possible before undertaking that larger expense.

Also, long term plan include some aluminum metal cloak fenders (and 35"s) so I'm planning on buying the compatible MC rock sliders now. I assume I shouldn't have an issue with that.
 

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First, I would forgo the Teraflex track bars for some Metalcloak or Currie ones. You will need a DC drive shaft and at least adjustable rear upper CA's for the tummy tuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate your recommending the MC or Currie trackbars... not sure how possible that change is at this point, but I'll check.

I figured I would need the DC Shaft and/or adjustable uppers when I do that actual tummy tuck, but what about when I do the BL and MML?.

If I can do the BL and MML without the adjustable CA or DC Shaft, then I will do that real soon.
 

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That's the stage I'm in right now with an OMe 2.5" suspension, BL and MML running stock CAs and driveshaft. I plan on doing CA's (metal cloak or currie) in a month or so, then TT with new driveshaft a few months after that.

I keep wheeling lite for now because I'm not sure how much twisting the stock CA's can take, but they have held up this far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The stock CA's are good to go, I wouldn't worry about them with that much lift.

My concern is pinion angle, and the drive shaft's ability to reliably function. In my head, the MML will help offset a little of the 3" lift until I get that belly up skid plate installed.
 

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I'd like to prepare for the Savvy under armor belly up skid plate. That means 1.25" body lift, and 1" MML in my near future, on top of the 3" coil lift.

My question is, can I do that work without having to sweat a double cardan driveshaft or set of adjustable control arms to set the pinion in the back? and/or front?
In addition to the 1" MML/1.25" BL, you will absolutely need a DC shaft for the lift + Savvy tummy tuck. Not only that, you will need adjustable uppers and lowers. You will need to SHORTEN the lower control arms in order to rotate the axle about its center. As far as the t-case is concerned, it will look like 6-7" of lift. Also be prepared to modify/relocate/rotate all the brackets on top of the axle.

The SWB vs LWB makes a big difference here, a friend with ~3.5" lift + tummy tuck just went through this....the rear track bar mount was hitting the gas tank, the diff was hitting the gas tank, the UCA brackets were running into the exhaust and he was loosing shock travel, all because of the rotated pinion angle. He had cut all the axle brackets off and change the bracket/pinion angle relationship...welding the brackets in new positions. He relocated the upper and lower springs perches, rotated the UCA's, LCA's and sway bar brackets to accommodate the new pinion angle, but get back to OEM bracket positions relative to the frame.

So be prepared to address the downstream issues that arise....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In addition to the 1" MML/1.25" BL, you will absolutely need a DC shaft for the lift + Savvy tummy tuck. Not only that, you will need adjustable uppers and lowers. You will need to SHORTEN the lower control arms in order to rotate the axle about its center. As far as the t-case is concerned, it will look like 6-7" of lift. Also be prepared to modify/relocate/rotate all the brackets on top of the axle.

The SWB vs LWB makes a big difference here, a friend with ~3.5" lift + tummy tuck just went through this....the rear track bar mount was hitting the gas tank, the diff was hitting the gas tank, the UCA brackets were running into the exhaust and he was loosing shock travel, all because of the rotated pinion angle. He had cut all the axle brackets off and change the bracket/pinion angle relationship...welding the brackets in new positions. He relocated the upper and lower springs perches, rotated the UCA's, LCA's and sway bar brackets to accommodate the new pinion angle, but get back to OEM bracket positions relative to the frame.

So be prepared to address the downstream issues that arise....
Thanks UnlimitedLJ04, that's a great primer on what I need to be prepared for and what that could ultimately take to get done. I saved this in my notebook.

Still though, my immediate concerns is whther I have to do any of this for the BL and MML, and it's looking like no.
 

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no, the only mod that i would the MML/BL is a TC shifter cable. get it done and forget about ever using those crappy brackets
 

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From my experience on the TJ in the PIC no you don't need to...however that TT is going to be more than bolting it up in place of factory skid plate....part of the reason I finally "Stopped" modding the TJ and sold it to start on the JK....for me it was no longer something I wanted to drive every day, but don't "wheel" enough to keep dumping money into it. So sold it and took the money to Mod for JK parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
no, the only mod that i would the MML/BL is a TC shifter cable. get it done and forget about ever using those crappy brackets
Thanks for the tip Jed, duly noted!

From my experience on the TJ in the PIC no you don't need to...however that TT is going to be more than bolting it up in place of factory skid plate....part of the reason I finally "Stopped" modding the TJ and sold it to start on the JK....for me it was no longer something I wanted to drive every day, but don't "wheel" enough to keep dumping money into it. So sold it and took the money to Mod for JK parts.
That was a beautiful TJ, JP!

I don't ever "plan" on getting rid of my TJ, unless I come across an LJ or CJ that I couldn't refuse (and not in the "Godfather style", just the normal style of couldn't refuse).
 

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Thanks for the tip Jed, duly noted!



That was a beautiful TJ, JP!

I don't ever "plan" on getting rid of my TJ, unless I come across an LJ or CJ that I couldn't refuse (and not in the "Godfather style", just the normal style of couldn't refuse).
Yeah I had never planned on it either.....but as I get older and accept that my days of "wheeling" are becoming fewer and fewer, while a capable Jeep for Winter and Summer, with the proper manners for being on the street/ highway with my wife and vacations.....It brought me to the conclusion the TJ was truely a LUXURY and I could get more for it now than later, and get top of the line build parts for the JK.

So a fellow Jeeper bought it, sold in 3 days on the local Jeep clubs board....we both got what we needed.
 

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I am in a similar situation as you right now and have thought long and hard about the TT. I decided to go ahead and do the SYE and get a new rear driveshaft but decided to put the TT on hold and instead get some new high clearance fenders to fit 35s, wheel it like that, and then reevaluate if I really need the TT or not
 

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I am in a similar situation as you right now and have thought long and hard about the TT. I decided to go ahead and do the SYE and get a new rear driveshaft but decided to put the TT on hold and instead get some new high clearance fenders to fit 35s, wheel it like that, and then reevaluate if I really need the TT or not
another part of what caused me to sell the TJ...I was told that after the SYE and new driveshaft that I already had done...if I than added the TT I would need to do the drive shaft AGAIN...which makes sense I guess I had just thought the SYE would "fix" that for good...and that still left out control arms etc....yes do more research (as this thread is doing) there is a lot more to the TT than just replacing a skid plate!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am in a similar situation as you right now and have thought long and hard about the TT. I decided to go ahead and do the SYE and get a new rear driveshaft but decided to put the TT on hold and instead get some new high clearance fenders to fit 35s, wheel it like that, and then reevaluate if I really need the TT or not
As a rubi-owner, I don't need the SYE, but I need everything else.

And I plan on doing the same, meaning I want to eventually be sitting on 35's but my goal is to have everything done by then to limit the time I'm rolling on 35's with 4.10 gears :)

33's and 4.10's. sure I can deal with that. But I don't suspect I will want to roll those 35's without 4.88's or more for long.
 

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another part of what caused me to sell the TJ...I was told that after the SYE and new driveshaft that I already had done...if I than added the TT I would need to do the drive shaft AGAIN...which makes sense I guess I had just thought the SYE would "fix" that for good...and that still left out control arms etc....yes do more research (as this thread is doing) there is a lot more to the TT than just replacing a skid plate!!!
Good advice

Part of the reason I'm putting off the TT is that as of now I don't need control arms. It's pretty much required for the TT plus the cost of the TT is expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah I had never planned on it either.....but as I get older and accept that my days of "wheeling" are becoming fewer and fewer, while a capable Jeep for Winter and Summer, with the proper manners for being on the street/ highway with my wife and vacations.....It brought me to the conclusion the TJ was truely a LUXURY and I could get more for it now than later, and get top of the line build parts for the JK.

So a fellow Jeeper bought it, sold in 3 days on the local Jeep clubs board....we both got what we needed.
That makes a lot of sense. While I never "plan" to get rid of my TJ, my time in the Marine Corps taught me that no plan survives contact with the enemy, and I'm fighting a two-front war against both time and money. I get it.
 

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That makes a lot of sense. While I never "plan" to get rid of my TJ, my time in the Marine Corps taught me that no plan survives contact with the enemy, and I'm fighting a two-front war against both time and money. I get it.
I kinda left out that the JK with a small lift and better tires is already probably as capable as my TJ was ....not picking on the TJs just saying...couple pics...
 

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