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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently purchased a 1998 Jeep Wrangler it has a rebuilt motor, a k&n ram air system, ceramic headers, and magnaflo exhaust. It also has a 4" suspension lift these are all good things now come the bad. When I got the jeep it swam more than drive, it drove back and forth and the bump and steer was ridicules. To fix this I replaced the front track bar with an adjustable jks track bar this helped, but it still has bad bump and steer. I'm also told all my control arm bushings need to be replaced and whenever I make a sharp right turn my check engine light comes on I don’t know why. Also I replaced the serpentine belt and the jeep would not stop squalling, it got worse when I turned on the AC. I bought a belt that bypassed the AC to stop that for now, but summer is coming soon so I will need to figure that out quickly. The AC did not work before I bypassed it I was told it has a small leak I don’t know if my compressor is good or not. Also if I let the jeep set for more than 3 hours it starts real rough and sputters for a couple of seconds. I replaced the o2 sensor and was told the wiring to the starter might be bad, but the starter is good it’s just getting to much power. The last guy who had this jeep needs to be shot. If any one has any input on any of these problems I would really appreciate it.
 

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You bought a Jeep that the PO said "needs to be shot"? That's like buying an old horse heading for the glue factory and running the Kentucky Derby with it.? :rolleyes:
 

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No, he said the last guy who HAD this jeep should be shot. And I don't blame him.
However, I don't think it's going to be too hard to fix the problems. Bearings and universals and bushings have a very short life if the jeep is wheeled hard-the PO just didn't want to fix them. And probably when the engine was rebuilt someone screwed up the wiring somewhere. Find a good JEEP mechanic or some fellow jeepers in your area and have a 'fixit' party.
 

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I have recently purchased a 1998 Jeep Wrangler it has a rebuilt motor, a k&n ram air system, ceramic headers, and magnaflo exhaust. It also has a 4" suspension lift these are all good things now come the bad. When I got the jeep it swam more than drive, it drove back and forth and the bump and steer was ridicules. To fix this I replaced the front track bar with an adjustable jks track bar this helped, but it still has bad bump and steer. I'm also told all my control arm bushings need to be replaced and whenever I make a sharp right turn my check engine light comes on I don’t know why. Also I replaced the serpentine belt and the jeep would not stop squalling, it got worse when I turned on the AC. I bought a belt that bypassed the AC to stop that for now, but summer is coming soon so I will need to figure that out quickly. The AC did not work before I bypassed it I was told it has a small leak I don’t know if my compressor is good or not. Also if I let the jeep set for more than 3 hours it starts real rough and sputters for a couple of seconds. I replaced the o2 sensor and was told the wiring to the starter might be bad, but the starter is good it’s just getting to much power. The last guy who had this jeep needs to be shot. If any one has any input on any of these problems I would really appreciate it.
Just my thoughts.. Replace the drop Pitman Arm with an OEM unit. Your Trackbar should descend from the frame on the driver side to the axle at the same angle as your Draglink from the Pitman Arm to the passenger side knuckle. If you have worn bushings they need to be replaced or you may think about new Control Arms.
If after bypassing your a/c compressor the squealing stopped I would be leaning toward a bad compressor.
The starting issue sounds like one or more Fuel Injectors is bleeding down creating a "flooded" condition. This could be why it runs rough for a minute then smooths out once the excess fuel is burned off.
 

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Look for guide on checking your tie rods, ball joints, and wheel bearings. Though after reading your post, it sounds like the PO didn't care much for maintenance and I would replace all fluids and all bushings and bearings. Engine oil, tranny oil, t-case oil, diffs oil, brake fluid, steering fluid, coolant. Control arm bushings, all new steering, ball joints, wheel bearings, track bars and check the u-joints. This is all good advice for anyone buying an older or deprived car. Also get an alignment and wheel balance as that will help with darting and wobble.

I second scot68 on removing any drop pitman arm or lowering bracket you may have on the track bar or steering. Also it is just called "bump steer".
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I,m thinking of replacing all of the control arms with johnny joints (tax return gone) does any one have any input on them, i,ve heard good things. I just found out that the PO JB welded the rear hitch on who does that, it has holes that line up no drilling. I guess this is what I get for buying a jeep from a kid. Today my oil pressure gauge was flucuating; I think the sending unit might be going out, any info whould be apreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All fuids have been replaced and I replaced the rear seal it was leaking. I do this with all vehicles I buy used.
 

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I,m thinking of replacing all of the control arms with johnny joints (tax return gone) does any one have any input on them, i,ve heard good things. I just found out that the PO JB welded the rear hitch on who does that, it has holes that line up no drilling. I guess this is what I get for buying a jeep from a kid. Today my oil pressure gauge was flucuating; I think the sending unit might be going out, any info whould be apreciated.

If you are thinking about new arms look into Savvy, Rokeman or Clayton. They all have Johnny Joints which is definitely what you want and all 3 are reputable.
Oil pressure fluctuation is normal with varying rpm's (not sure if that's what you mean) if not it is very common for the Jeep oil pressure gauge to read incorrectly.
Here is a photo of my Savvy Offroad aluminum double adjustable arms that I highly recommend. Give Gerald at Savvy a call he will give you a very good price.
http://savvyoffroad.com/

ARMS 001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
by flucuating I mean it droped off making my gauge light come on a couple of times, it returns to normal pritty quick.
 

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Pick up an inexpensive universal oil pressure gauge. A friend of mine was dealing with the same issue last year ('97 4.0L) thinking he had an oil pump problem or worn bearings. After installing a universal gauge (mounted under dash) he found out he really had excellent oil pressure.
 

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Carlton80 said:
by flucuating I mean it droped off making my gauge light come on a couple of times, it returns to normal pritty quick.
U should try by replacing the oil pressure unit. I was having the same problem and got fixed after I replaced it. It was like $25 or something like that
 
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