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I am going RCV's I'll have to be easy on the pedal so I don't tear up the R&P. But I have been wheeling with a D30 locked for two years and had zero issues with it.
 

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Just be aware. You might be ok with the height, the large loop of the TF track bar can rub the pitman arm. Mine is close but haven't flexed it enough yet. I think you only have to run Synergy's track bar when running the optional sector shaft brace. The frame bracket by itself is no problem and easily bolted on. What a setup you're going to have going. You doing RCV's ?
So the synergy front track bar frame brace will work with my teraflex monster track bar?
 

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Thanks for the write up! I'm still researching how I want to lift my Jeep and have 1 question. You (and others) have talked about LCA brackets. Using these brackets will change the position of the LCA in relationship to the UCA in that they will no longer be (mostly?) parallel. Does this have any effect on the suspension performance or steering? Also, an adjustable LCA will keep the CA's parallel, but effects (forgot the proper term) instant(?) center? I'm only looking at a 2.5 lift... What issue should I be more concerned about to keep everything working properly? Hope you understand what I'm trying to ask.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The brackets do a few things, change the operating angle of both upper and lower arms making them more parallel to the ground. This smooths out the ride over bumps.
Change instant center for less brake dive. Lastly the upper arm hole is set back to rotate the axle down for caster. Caster is what tightens the overall steering feel.
Adjustable mid arms only set wheelbase and pinion/caster, But if you are not relocating the mounts -like with a long arm. the geometry doesn't change. Even with adjustable mid arms.
That's where the brackets shine. Clearance is the only negative. Something to consider if rock crawling where clearance needed.
 

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Very informative, wish i would have found it before going through my issues.
Ended up installing just the front adjustable LCA, and ended with 4.8 positive on the drivers side and 4.9 on the passengers side. Sure cured the wandering issue i was having on my '08 JK with a 4" lift and 35's.
Was chasing a steering wobble ( DW if you wish) and also installed an adjustable track arm, with all the correct sized hardware.
Now the 35" Nittos stay on the ground :)

My caster was in the 2.something positive before the LCA's.
 

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The brackets do a few things, change the operating angle of both upper and lower arms making them more parallel to the ground. This smooths out the ride over bumps.
Change instant center for less brake dive. Lastly the upper arm hole is set back to rotate the axle down for caster. Caster is what tightens the overall steering feel.
Adjustable mid arms only set wheelbase and pinion/caster, But if you are not relocating the mounts -like with a long arm. the geometry doesn't change. Even with adjustable mid arms.
That's where the brackets shine. Clearance is the only negative. Something to consider if rock crawling where clearance needed.
Oh, okay... I was under the impression the brackets only changed the location of the lowers. It changes both? Thanks...

John
 

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I put a RockKrawler 2.5 Max Travel System lift onto my '13 JKU this weekend. It's off to the shop for an alignment now. They just called and like many have mentioned on here, the guy brought up cam bolts. Based upon my reading, I told him no on the cam bolts. He said that my castor on one side was just a hair over 5 and on the other was just a hair under 6. I told him I would like a print out and to just get it as close as he can and to not put cam bolts on.

For reference, here are some pics of when I checked it myself after the lift. First pic is of the angle finder sitting on my garage floor to account for any slope in the floor. Second pic is to show where I placed the angle finder. Third pic is the reading of the angle finder.

The front LCAs are turned in (screwed in) just about as far they can go. You might be able to get one full turn out of them...maybe.

What are ya'lls thought on the alignment shop comments and castor as well as how I checked it. I'll post the print out from the shop when I get it.

I drove some and it seem to drive fine although I haven't gotten it on the interstate yet. Only got up to about 50 mph on in town road.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Oh ok ... I would be concerned a bit with almost 6* caster if that's what he is getting.

Cam bolts are used for
Increasing caster running the stock arms. To lesson caster (with lower arms) -never heard of that done. Makes no sense
:confused:

As far as the difference from side to side.
The passenger side on JK's always seems to be a bit higher on caster for road crown --I believe. If she drives straight, keep the cross caster and dial each arm back a turn (if possible)

To try and even it out, only dial back the high side. You are shooting for 4.5-5*

At 5.5* average caster.. Pinion angle should show .5 to 0 * or a touch over 90*
 

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Oh ok ... I would be concerned a bit with almost 6* caster if that's what he is getting.

Cam bolts are used for
Increasing caster running the stock arms. To lesson caster (with lower arms) -never heard of that done. Makes no sense
:confused:

As far as the difference from side to side.
The passenger side on JK's always seems to be a bit higher on caster for road crown --I believe. If she drives straight, keep the cross caster and dial each arm back a turn (if possible)

To try and even it out, only dial back the high side. You are shooting for 4.5-5*

At 5.5* average caster.. Pinion angle should show .5 to 0 * or a touch over 90*
Sounds like someone installed the dreaded cam bolts rotated 180º (backwards).
 

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I think I will try to see if I can get the LCS to turn in (shorter) anymore. Shouldn't affect anything else other than castor right?

Below is a pic of the alignment specs I got back.
 

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Sounds like someone installed the dreaded cam bolts rotated 180º (backwards).
I installed the lift and I didn't install any cam bolts. I only took it to the shop for an alignment and the guy mentioned he could try that and I told him no...don't install any cam bolts.
 

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Oh ok .. You are pretty even at 6*
Pinion angle is changed but in a good way :D
I assume that your comment "Pinion angle is changed but in a good way" is in reference to me questioning/confirming that if I try to see if I can get the LCA to turn in (shorter) that it shouldn't affect anything else other than castor. Is this a correct assumption?

Also, do you think that even half a rotation of the joint will make much of a difference? With such a small difference in angles I would think it wouldn't take much.

Also, what do you think of my attempt of checking the angle (see pics in previous post). Based upon the angle finder readings...angle finder sitting on the floor shows 89*. Angle finder on the round ole on the differential housing shows a hair over 87* so let's call it 87.25*. So with 6* separate and taking into account the 1* for the garage floor...that would make caster 4.25*. Make sense?

I know that's a rough way of doing it, but seems like a big difference between my numbers and the shops. Kind of hard to argue though if they've got it hooked up to a computer that that use on vehicles everyday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Yes, the axle measurement is just a base but should get you close setting up arms. Then you would have the jeep aligned for accurate numbers.
That is a big difference though, did you try the other side for s**ts?
There is always a chance the tech screwed up. I don't know how common that is.

What I meant. Lowering caster has the opposite effect on pinion. Your pinion will raise a little which is better for the DS
 

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Yes, the axle measurement is just a base but should get you close setting up arms. Then you would have the jeep aligned for accurate numbers.
That is a big difference though, did you try the other side for s**ts?
There is always a chance the tech screwed up. I don't know how common that is.

What I meant. Lowering caster has the opposite effect on pinion. Your pinion will raise a little which is better for the DS
I thought that was a bit of a difference as well. I will try the other side/circle as well just to see. I will also try it at the pinion flange as well just to see what I come up with.

Okay, I thought that was what you meant so I think we are on the same page.

Depending upon what I find by measuring again and in different spots, I will try to see if I can unbolt the LCA and check to see if I can shorten them anymore. Do you think that even half a rotation of the joint will make much of a difference? With such a small difference in angles I would think it wouldn't take much. Also, if my thinking is correct, I should be able to do this with the jeep on the ground....correct? I would disconnect the LCA, shorten it if possible and then use a jack to help rotate the axle to line up the holes by either placing it under the LCA mount or the tie rod close to the joint....correct?

Just FYI...the jeep seems to drive just fine (city and interstate) and I haven't noticed any vibrations or flightiness.

Thanks again. You have been a tremendous help in the process of me installing the lift myself.
 
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