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A pull to the right can be from a variety of things. As mentioned, Toyo tires have a habit of pulling. You can also have a dragging brake caliper. Or it could be just from the crown of the road.
In some cases people install higher pressure steering stabilizers, which push to the left, to counter the pull to the right. But I would first make sure you don't have a mechanical issue causing the pull to the right before going down that road.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tires are cooper st max. 315. It will do it on flat ground as well. I have to apply constant back pressure.
 

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After driving a while, feel the wheels for heat, usually a sticking brake caliper will generate quite a bit more heat than the others.
Tire pressure?
a handheld temp gun does a great job of finding dragging brake pads/calipers.
cost about $15
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I’ll have to look into the heat. I did do a rough toe measurement and I’m a 1/2 inch. I need to take it back to check it because I think it should be closer to 1/8. For info I run approximately 30psi.
 

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There are many reasons for pulling. If it started right after you put the lift on I doubt it is caliper related. I had a pull to the right which turned out to be due to incorrect toe setting. 1/2 toe is too much, should be 1/8. If the toe isn't set correctly one of the front tires can grab more than the other causing a pull.
 

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what lift brand are you running and what did it include and what front steering stabilizer? I run ST MAXX'S in 315/70 and no pulling at all. your toe looks good by your chart altho I like mine set on the lower side of the spec while others would say yours is spot on. I have had several pairs of Toyos and several pairs of St Maxx's and none have ever pulled. If you installed the lift did you make sure it was on the ground with all the control arms and track bars loose and then torqued and if someone else installed it are you sure it was done that way? I would loosen everything with the weight of the rig on the suspension and then retorq every thing
 

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You can do the toe adjustment yourself:

1 Lift both front tires off ground - jack stands under axle, wheels pointed straight forward.
2 On the front side of the tire facing forward, put a white dot in the center of the tread at a distance from the ground that is at the center of the axle/hub. Make sure you use the same distance from the ground on both tires when putting the dots on.
3 Measure the distance between the dots when facing forward and record it.
4 Rotate tires 180 degrees so the dots are now
facing the rear at the same height off the ground that they were when facing forward.
5 Measure the distance between the dots when facing rearward and record it.
6 Subtract the two measurements you took. The result is your toe in/out.
7 Adjust the tie rod until the difference between the two measurements shows 1/8in toe in (1/8in less in the front then the back).
 

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8. With the wheels on the ground, make sure the tires are pointed straight ahead. May want to drive a few feet.
9. Loosen the adjusting collar on the drag link and turn it so the steering wheel is straight.

This has nothing to do with how the Jeep handles, just that is is more pleasing to the eye and keeps the skid control from trying to straighten out the Jeep.


If that does not do it, if it pulls to the left add a pound or so of air into the left front tire. If it pulls right, add the air to the right tire. An old tire jockey taught me that when I had a Ram 2500 that had been aligned and everything was correct. Raising the TP from 40 to 42 in the RF tire cured the issue. NASCAR race cars have more like 6 to 8 PSI more in the RF tire to help it turn left.)
 

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8. With the wheels on the ground, make sure the tires are pointed straight ahead. May want to drive a few feet.
9. Loosen the adjusting collar on the drag link and turn it so the steering wheel is straight.

This has nothing to do with how the Jeep handles, just that is is more pleasing to the eye and keeps the skid control from trying to straighten out the Jeep.


If that does not do it, if it pulls to the left add a pound or so of air into the left front tire. If it pulls right, add the air to the right tire. An old tire jockey taught me that when I had a Ram 2500 that had been aligned and everything was correct. Raising the TP from 40 to 42 in the RF tire cured the issue. NASCAR race cars have more like 6 to 8 PSI more in the RF tire to help it turn left.)
Yep. Steering wheel will need centering. Good call.
 

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Been there done that. Fortunately, as one tire man told me years ago, Jeep are easy to center the steering wheel. Of course in the old days it was just an appearance issue since there were no anti-skid systems. When I got my TJ the steering wheel was about 30 degrees off to the left when going straight. Bugged the fire out of me until I got under and fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the input. I’m running a Rock Krawler 2.5 lift with lower front adjustable control arms. I installed myself and torqued everything under weight. I have the stock stabilizer currently. I will measure toe tomorrow and see if the helps at all. Thanks everyone
 

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Though I run Toyo 35's, I personally thought that all lifted jks had a minor pull to the right.... or so I have been told. I have been through much of the above as well...and had the alignment done again based on the overall crown of the roads round here.
 

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How's balance? Any vibration?

I have a stock 10A, when I used the normal 265 tires it came with, it was sensitive to road crown, which usually meant a pull to the right for me. After putting 295's on it, it's extremely sensitive to it. If I'm in the right lane on a highway, my wheel is turned slightly left. If I move to a flat center lane, it evens out. Any slant in the road brings it out.
 
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