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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The stock AR5 input seal is 58mm outside diameter and 40mm inside diameter. The NP233 input shaft is ~49mm. I looked around for a seal that had 58mm outside diamter and 49mm inside diameter, but couldn't find anything. I've got two options (unless you come up with something else):

1. Run the AR5 without a seal and hope the T-case to Transmission seal will take care of it. I have a high degree of confidence this will work, but it would be messy taking off the t-case.
2. Put the AR5 input shaft on an AX15, and use the AX15 instead. I'll need to get a different T-case from the junk yard along with the AR5 input shaft and bearing. I would hate to tear apart my AR5 just for the shaft. Instead, I would buy a new shaft and bearing. Make sure it fits together. Then, go get the new T-case.
 

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Verified the sizes. The input gear is 1.938" OD and the extension housing seal bore ID is 2.283 (58MM). If I was doing this, I would sleeve the input up to 50mm and buy a 50X58X4 HM4 R seal. Sleeves are a standard repair technique for seal diameters. To install them you just heat them up a little with a propane torch and slip them on. When the cool of they shrink on. You can't buy a sleeve in this situation, so one would have to be made. I could do it if required.

You could also turn your input gear down (cylindrical grind) to 48MM and use 48x58x4 HM4 seal. That's only if you have access to this type of equipment.

Edit....should have mentioned the 50x58x4 seal might barely be able to seal a 1.938" shaft. Usually the 'free' measurement of the seal is less than the size it works at. How much I can't say. It would need to cover the difference...and that is .030". A sleeve is still best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Wow! All that information is awesome, and I really appreciate the offer! I'm going to order the seal and check fitment.

I'm thinking about buying a smaller lathe to do some simple work, and this seems like something I could do. Do you have any recommendations?
 

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This is Radar78. I changed my user name. I chose radar78 and never really liked it. Anyway...

I removed the old seal from the transmission and tried to test join the np233 and ar5. It did not work. They were apart by about 3 mm. I had to grind down part of the tcase seal retainer so it didn't interfear with the shift plug in the rear of the transmission.
 

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Wow! All that information is awesome, and I really appreciate the offer! I'm going to order the seal and check fitment.

I'm thinking about buying a smaller lathe to do some simple work, and this seems like something I could do. Do you have any recommendations?
I have a vintage Clausing 5904 (US made) lathe that is at least as old as I am. It's really only capable of 8" in diameter even though it's considered a 12" lathe so anything major is done at work. Over time I have torn it down and replaced what little goes wrong with it and tooled it up(chucks,tool post,DRO and VFD) which adds up to a few dollars. Generally it is a decent and accurate machine that I would recommend. Many of the Chinese machines with also provide great value. Just make sure it's capable of the diameter work you expect to do. I'll snap a picture when I get a moment.
 

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I'm looking at a couple different machines.
1.The HF 7x10 seems decent.$560
2. The larger HF 8x12 seems better but I'm not sure if it's $300 better.800

3. Theres an old craftsman/atlas 12x30 on CL for 800

4. There some random chinese 8x14 lathe on eBay for ~700.

I don't have a lot of space, so the atlas would be a stretch. I like the 8x14 on eBay, but I'm concerned about the quality. HF is convenient, because I can return or exchange it easily and there's a lot of support for those machines.
 

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I received the input shaft seal and it feels like it will work. It definitely grips the input shaft. Looks like I won't be getting a lathe ... for now.
 

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Glad to see it my seal solution might work out for you. I think the seal should still have plenty of sealing ability with the diameter being as close as it is.

And about the lathe, in my personal experience I can say that it will turn into a money pit without enough of a reason to justify it's existence.
 

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I feel pretty confident that it will work. Thanks! Time to finish the T-case and connect everything together. I've got to get a few parts to finish the job...

National Seal 710046 for the front output shaft
Felpro Transfer Case Gasket Set 72769
 

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I began doing the swap a couple weeks ago. I dropped the AR5 in favor of an AX15, because the AR5 pushed the engine way to far forward. It was about 6 inches from the fire wall and only a couple from the fan. This setup made my desire to use the existing jeep frame side engine perches impossible due to interference with the exhaust manifold. I cut off the passenger side, and started designing frame perches. Then, decided to change my transmission to the AX15. I could have kept those stock perches had I made that decision soon. I purchased a "core" AR5 2wd for ~100, and transfer the front half of the case along with the bellhousing to the AX15.
  • I purchased a pilot bushing from novak, but it hasn't arrives.
  • I already have a compatible disc clutch sitting on a shelf. It was originally for an AX15 behind a 5.2 magnum engine.
  • I already have a YJ 4.0/AX15 transmission mounting bracket with mount (cause I horde jeep parts)
The AX15 puts the engine where its supposed to go. I've got the frame side mounts fabricated. I need to tack weld them in, remove the engine, finish the welds, and paint the engine front part of the frame/engine compartment.

  • The stock jeep fuel lines will work. I just need to straighten out the factory bends. I got pulled the fuel rail from an older 3.5 that used a return based fuel system with a regulator on the rail.
  • I'm making custom power steering lines,because the jeep lines won't reach. I'm using the AN6 PTFE tubing that I purchased for the fuel lines to make the PS lines.
  • The lower radiator hose had major interference issues that were eliminated by moving the engine back 4 inches. The engine and radiator have slightly different diameters (top and bottom), so I'll need to deal with that.
  • I don't understand which heater hose goes to which HVAC tube. I can't find a flow diagram for the 4.2 or 3.5.
  • I'm completely redoing the engine bay electrical system, switching to a chevy based fuse box.
 

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I began doing the swap a couple weeks ago. I dropped the AR5 in favor of an AX15, because the AR5 pushed the engine way to far forward. It was about 6 inches from the fire wall and only a couple from the fan. This setup made my desire to use the existing jeep frame side engine perches impossible due to interference with the exhaust manifold. I cut off the passenger side, and started designing frame perches. Then, decided to change my transmission to the AX15. I could have kept those stock perches had I made that decision soon. I purchased a "core" AR5 2wd for ~100, and transfer the front half of the case along with the bellhousing to the AX15.
  • I purchased a pilot bushing from novak, but it hasn't arrives.
  • I already have a compatible disc clutch sitting on a shelf. It was originally for an AX15 behind a 5.2 magnum engine.
  • I already have a YJ 4.0/AX15 transmission mounting bracket with mount (cause I horde jeep parts)
The AX15 puts the engine where its supposed to go. I've got the frame side mounts fabricated. I need to tack weld them in, remove the engine, finish the welds, and paint the engine front part of the frame/engine compartment.

  • The stock jeep fuel lines will work. I just need to straighten out the factory bends. I got pulled the fuel rail from an older 3.5 that used a return based fuel system with a regulator on the rail.
  • I'm making custom power steering lines,because the jeep lines won't reach. I'm using the AN6 PTFE tubing that I purchased for the fuel lines to make the PS lines.
  • The lower radiator hose had major interference issues that were eliminated by moving the engine back 4 inches. The engine and radiator have slightly different diameters (top and bottom), so I'll need to deal with that.
  • I don't understand which heater hose goes to which HVAC tube. I can't find a flow diagram for the 4.2 or 3.5.
  • I'm completely redoing the engine bay electrical system, switching to a chevy based fuse box.
Good to see you moving ahead with your plans. I should be doing the same. Every spring I get distracted by boating and fishing.....even this year.

I was worried about the length of the AR5 extension housing not working out well. Just easier to use the AX15 if it's still in decent shape. You mentioned that you were going to get a Novak pilot bearing rater than use the pilot from a Colorado. Does that mean you have a later Ax15 with the larger pilot diameter. Early AX15's had the same identical pilot diameter as the AR5. Some lathe work may be needed to get the Novak pilot to work (do you have the part # from Novak).

I have concerns about your power steering pressure hose unless the line is rated for that exact purpose. Power steering pressure is something around 1100 PSI or so.....well above fuel pressure. Fittings are always steel as aluminum will split given enough time. You can use most anything on the return side with a decent barb fitting. I ended up with a pressure line made locally using Parker hose. I'll snap a picture of my setup. The return ended up using Parker hose as well.....just a 'Push Lock' style. All in I spent 150 Canadian for both. They'll last a life time.

Your heater core lines on the Jeep YJ core are a 5/8 and 3/4. The 3/4 is always 'IN' and the 5/8 is 'OUT'. The small line out gives you a tiny amount of flow restriction in order to give the air moving through the core enough time to get hot. That makes the rear passenger 3/4 line the 'OUT' and the front drivers side 5/8 the 'IN' on my 4200. You can't go wrong even if you found a way to get it backwards. Coolant always flows through a YJ heater core....restriction or no restriction.
 

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The AX15 came from another 95 YJ (or that's what they told me at the junk yard). I ordered Novak PN PB-6071357, and it fit perfectly. No machining required. I ordered the ARP 5.0 Coyote Flyhwheel bolts and they fit perfectly as well

The PTFE hose I purchased has a working pressure up to 1500 PSI, but I probably won't use it. My other jeep (an 07 JKU rubicon with a Mopar 2011 4.7L V8) started leaking fuel from the AN braided fuel line I made a couple years ago. I'll use the new PTFE fuel line stuff for that instead. There's a shop that can make hydraulic hoses about 30 minutes from me. Once I get the dimensions, I'll probably pay them to make me something.

What you wrote makes sense, but the jeep Factory Service Manual shows fluid coming out of the top 3/4 in heater core. It has a very nice picture, but the Chevy FSM is missing a nice diagram. Your probably correct about it not mattering much,so I'll just hook up like sized hoses. Per your reply, my flows are backwards. I had a feeling it was wrong because the coolant inlet is over there.

4440893
 

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The motor is in, and I don't plan on removing it again.

I really want to get it started (just for a few seconds), so I'm focusing and fuel and wiring.
  • I decided to use the rest of the Teflon (PTFE) fuel hose for the YJ build. Bending the existing lines seemed like a PITA. I've got a 45 degree 6AN swivel on order that should allow me to finish the fuel lines.
  • I've got to solder the existing fuel pump wiring into the new wiring.
  • The PCM is located on the passenger side in a Colorado, but I'm installing it on the driver side fender in the YJ. I've got to lengthen half a dozen wires to make this possible.
  • I've got to construct a 5-6 ft battery cable that reaches across the engine bay to the starter.
  • I'm sure there's more, but its not coming to me.
 

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I've got to construct a 5-6 ft battery cable that reaches across the engine bay to the starter.
Same plan here as well. I have 2 rolls of welding cable and lugs to make my cables along with a die to use in my press. The battery terminals I am using are found in Toyotas. Great for attaching lug type cables.

 

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Its funny, because I recently discovered those same terminals while cruising through the junk yard. They are usually attached to a fuse pack. I planned on using them as well.
 

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I've finished the heater hoses. I ended up using 5/8 to 3/4 heater hose adapters to hook up the lines. Most of the engine wiring is complete minus the rear O2 sensor, Backup lamp, speedometer, and transfer case wiring.

I had the starter relay wired through the PCM, but the PCM wouldn't energize the relay without a signal from the BCM. I had to switch the wiring going to the PCM to ground instead. After that, the engine started without a problem.

I routed the starter and alternator wires across the firewall and under the battery tray. I attached a ground to the passenger side of the engine where the EGR would normally be connected.

I want to finish up the wiring and move on to radiator hoses and power steering, but it will be a couple weeks.
 

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I feel pretty confident that it will work. Thanks! Time to finish the T-case and connect everything together. I've got to get a few parts to finish the job...

National Seal 710046 for the front output shaft
Felpro Transfer Case Gasket Set 72769
Eagle5, were you ever able to mate the AR5 to the NP233? I’ve got a V8 4WD S10 project I’m working on and highly considering swapping in an AR5 (using the FabBot bellhousing adapter). I didn’t want to dive into buying an AR5 until I was sure that it could be mated to my NP233.

Sorry if this seems unaffiliated, but you were the only person on the internet I could find who actually gave it a try. Thanks.
 

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Eagle5, were you ever able to mate the AR5 to the NP233? I’ve got a V8 4WD S10 project I’m working on and highly considering swapping in an AR5 (using the FabBot bellhousing adapter). I didn’t want to dive into buying an AR5 until I was sure that it could be mated to my NP233.

Sorry if this seems unaffiliated, but you were the only person on the internet I could find who actually gave it a try. Thanks.
I was able to connect them up using a seal that I found on the internet. It seemed to be okay, but I never actually ran that configuration. The AR5 just didn't fit the YJ very well. I ended up using an AR5 front and every thing else was AX15.
 

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Great thanks! So basically what I’m understanding is:
-Notch material out of NP233 seal retainer to clear AR5 shift plug.
-Find a different output seal for the AR5 (larger inner diameter, same outer diameter)

And just to clarify, once you made the notch, the two casings did go ahead and pull all the way together?
 
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