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Welcome to the Forum IAmSwick4Life,

A V8 S10 sounds like it'll be a honker.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Yes, it went together. I'm not certain that it would really work, because I never really used that configuration. The seal wasn't as tight as the stock seal, but it seemed good enough. You are taking a small risk.
 

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The Jeep runs and drives! I've got a few more things to tie up, but here is a summary of what I've done


Transmission and Clutch
Ultimately I ended up with a hybrid AX15 that contains the front half of an AR5. I used a bunch of different fitting to get the clutch working.

I used Novak Adapter's PB-6071357 pilot bushing to adapt the AX15 input shaft to the I5 Colorado crank

Earls Plumbing 966303ERL 90 Deg. Steel AN Swivel Coupling

Advance Adapter 716130 : Master Cylinder Fitting for Jeep YJ Wrangler (#716130)


Exhaust
I replaced the front half of the exhaust with 2.5 pipe (YJ is 2.25 stock). I pulled the front half of the exhaust from a Colorado (which was only a few inches long after the Junk yard cut it) and welded it to 2.5in diameter pipe. I added an O2 bung to that pipe as well. I connected it to a 2.5 universal resonator, because I like quit and hate weird hums coming from my exhaust. I purchased a 2.5 diameter inlet/outlet muffler and a 2.5 in to 2.25 in converter to connect the old tail pipe. I used band seal clamps on everything.

Here is a list of some amazon purchases.

17219MGF MagnaFlow Stainless Steel Oval Muffler (Autozone)

2.5'' Inlet & Outlet Universal Muffler, 11.5'' Overall Length Stainless Steel Resonator

EVIL Energy 2.5 Exhaust Band clamp

Stainless Steel Exhaust Clamps - Catalytic Converter Repair Parts, 2.5" Narrow Band Clamp, Great for Exhaust Tip, Exhaust Resonator, Exhaust Manifold, Exhaust Flex Pipe, Exhaust Muffler Repair Project

Dorman 03133 Exhaust Flange Hardware Kit


Power steering
I used Aeroquip hose and swival fittings for this. It seems to be working fine. Everything is steel.

Aeroquip FCC0606 -06AN Teflon Racing Hose
Aeroquip FCM1122 Steel -06AN 90-Degree Hose Fitting
RUSSELL PWR STEERING ADAPTER, 6AN MALE TO M18 X 1.5
Earls 961956ERL Steel Adapter


Cooling
They are a hodge podge of hoses connected together with adapters. I put a 210 deg temp switch using an Amazon coupler in the upper radiator hose in order to drive the fan. It comes on around 210 and shuts off around 200 Deg.
Its a 2 speed fan, but I only have the low speed hooked up right now.

SUM-380604
Coolant Hose Connector, Radiator, Steel, Aluminized, 1.50 in. OD, 45 Degree Bend, Each
(Mfr. #: SUM-380604)


Electrical
I rewired the entire engine and chassis electrical system under the hood based on a GM fuse box. I prefer Delphi connectors to the Chrysler Yazaki stuff. I could have just soldered everything together, but I added some conversion connectors instead. I had to purchase terminal crimpers and the associated terminals online from several different sources. It was way more expensive than just soldering everything, but I learned a lot about making my own harness/connectors.

Transfer Case
I was going to use A blazer NP233 electronic shift transfer case, but I had to shift over to using a Durango NP233 instead after I switched to the AX15 transmission. They are physically incompatible (5 vs 6 bolt t-case pattern). I'm using the Transfer case control module (TCCM) from the blazer along with the Blazer's selector switch. The Dodge TCCM requires CAN bus inputs, so I don't want to use it. The durango's t-case position sensor differs from the blazer's in that it needs a 5v reference source which the GM TCCM doesn't provide. Luckily, there is a 5v fuel tank pressure voltage source available from the Engine controller for this. I was going to use a 7405 voltage regulator to generate the voltage, but using the PCM 5v source is much easier. Its a little risky, because it could affect the PCM if a short occurs (Such as could happen with water intrusion).

Accelerator Pedal
I successfully mounted the accelerator pedal. I'm very happy with the way this one turned out. I cut and bent some sheet metal, then added a bracket that also needed to by cut and bent. See the picture.


Air intake
I cut the plastic part from a Colorado air box that contains the MAF, and attach it to the stock hoses. I purchased this air filter and just let it hang for now. I'm going to add an enclosure to limit water intrusion, and protect the filter.

Specter Engine Air Filter: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Filter: 2004-2007 CHEVROLET/GMC/HUMMER/ISUZU (Colorado, Canyon, H3, i-280,
 

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Blazer Electronic 4wd switch mounted on the dash.
4517317

Looking behind the mounting bracket. I had to cut a hole in the bracket to fit the switch.
4517318


View of the stainless steel replacement Tunnel Floor Cover. Its made from a piece of stainless sheet. Thinner is better. Just place the existing one over top, clamp it on, draw the shape of the old one, remove the old one, and cut/drill.

View of the Chevy Blazer Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) and wiring.
 

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Some Pictures of the accelerator pedal mounting bracket. I didn't have to drill any new holes.
4517319
4517320
4517321
 

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... and this is how I am driving my gauges / electric fan.


I had to add a buck dc-dc power converter in order to get this to work reliably.
 

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Here are some pics of the transmission to Transfer case 5 bolt pattern. This was a suprise to me because every jeep NP2XX that I'm aware of is 6 bolt.

I also through in a pic of remove that automatic transmission crank bushing.
i have a ar5 trans in my chevy colorado, im looking for a 5 bolt tcase with passenger drop, maybe since you messed with these you have a idea of what i could use? The np231 is drivers drop only i believe? Maybe flip a np231?
 

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i have a ar5 trans in my chevy colorado, im looking for a 5 bolt tcase with passenger drop, maybe since you messed with these you have a idea of what i could use? The np231 is drivers drop only i believe? Maybe flip a np231?
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 
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