Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
All

I'm looking at putting a lift of my 2015 Rubicon. The question I have is depending on the lift 2.5 inch to 4 inch, when do you need to think about also replacing the drive shaft? I'm thinking of going with a lift that will handle 35 inch tires. I don't think I will go bigger then that.

Currently, I have 4.10 gears with the factory 32 inch tires.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
2.5 will handle 35 inch tires. I think they look really good on a 2.5. I've played all over Utah with mine and have had no issues whatsoever and that's with 33's. Once these wear out I'm going up to 35's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
on 2.5" You wont need to replace your driveshaft right away, but after a year or so of wheeling and daily driving my CV joint on my front DS went out and I replaced my front driveshaft. anything over 2.5" you will probably need to replace your front DS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
Just went through this myself. Mopar 2" lift. Can be had for around $1300. Sometimes $920 on Amazon if you catch it right. Comes with Fox shocks and a new drive shaft. Only thing you would need to add is geo brackets or LCAs for caster. The kit comes with cam bolts, which are not advised.

Hard to beat price given the fox shocks and drive shaft. I actually netted about 3", even with heavy steel front bumper and winch.


 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,843 Posts
2.5" lift will get 35s under the Jeep but if you run stock fenders you will end up with some rubbing when articulating unless you add some bumpstop. Most 2.5" lift will net you 3" - 3.5" of actual lift unless you are all loaded down with steel skids, bumpers, winch, etc.... I find that you get away from a lot of other work that becomes necessary with a 3.5" lift. Things like a drag link flip, adjustable track bars and raised track bar brackets, at least upper adjustable control arms so you can dial in some caster up front and pinion angle in the rear and a million other little things you will have to do. I have had plenty of luck in my shop with stock drive shafts on a 3.5" lift as long as adjustable control arms are installed. I typically stretch the rear 3/4 - 1" and add exhaust spacers to make some room for the driveshaft in front. They hold up fine until you're ready to order a set of Adams driveshafts or similar.
To note.. even with a 2.5" lift you will need to consider some caster correction in the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,152 Posts
Another vote for 2.5" and 35's. I went with the metalcloak game changer and have been very happy with the results. Driveshafts are holding up so far (3k miles). I expect to have to replace the front one, but I'm in no rush.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,420 Posts
cheapest way to get 35s is flat fenders. maybe do a low budget boost lift with shock extensions. with a 4.5" back space you will be fine. going to have minimal impact, if any, on things like drive shafts and ride quality. you could have a ball wheeling this set up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Mopar Hightops

It's been I few months now that I had the Mopar Highop fenders installed and I still love the look and performance!!! I also have the AEV 2" spacer lift. I am currently running the KO2 315/70/17
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,554 Posts
My favorite 2dr build is a 1.5-2" lift with flats on 35's. Stock suspension works, but I want the extra articulation from longer shocks.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top