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Hello guys,

Ran into a guy that's been running jeeps his whole life, he's at #8 I think, started with CJs way back. Running a 2016 (I think) Rubi, looking at the JLs.

Anyway, tells me he's always gotten the ball joint replaced with offset ones on his last 4 or 5 his jeeps right from the purchase, gets the camber set at zero. Never gets bad tire wear and never become noisy, like mine that get the second inside lug wear faster, then the noise level picks up. Also says makes it steer like extremely light and almost no side to side tracking on worn highways.


I do the 5 wheel rotation at every 5000 miles...

So, since I'm looking at changing out my 315/70R17 Duratracs on Fuel Anza D557 wheels 17x8.5 +6mm 5" BS ... to ... 305/70R18 on Fuel D564 wheels 18x9 +1mm 5" BS.... should I get the Teraflex adjustable ball joints and do the same?

Looking forward to your excellent comments and suggestions, as always!

Em ...
 

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Us TJ folks (97-06) stick with Spicer ball joints
 
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Keep the camber within factory specs if easily obtained with factory provided adjustments. If your camber is out of factory specs then your axle housing is bent or was not manufactured within spec when it was fabricated at the factory (not unheard of) and adjustable ball joints can be used to correct the issue. Otherwise there is no need for adjustable ball joints.


The factory specs for the front axle camber is between -.88 to +.38 degrees, with -.25 being the nominal (middle range) value. So a zero degree adjustment is feasible and within specifications but is not nominal.



The left side of my front axle has been out of spec since I've owned it. I installed adjustable ball joints long ago at my mechanic's suggestion but they wore out faster than I would have liked. I've since replaced them with Synergy 4120 heavy duty upper and lower ball joints and the last alignment measurement two years ago was out of spec on the camber measurement for the front left side; measuring -.96 degrees.


With that said, the BFG AT tires that I installed at nearly the same time as the HD ball joints wore perfectly even. I just sold them after 30,000 miles with 90% remaining original tread depth and I did not rotate them one time.


I think the key to tire wear is proper inflation pressure and then keeping an eye on wear for need to rotate.
 
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OP - let understand this. You have 17" wheels now and are going to ditch them to go to 18"? The vast majority of Jeep owners who have Jeeps that came with 18" wheels can't wait to ditch them. The availability of tires in 18" is far less than in 17" and are more expensive.

You currently have 315/70R17 Duratracs and they are not available for 18" wheels. Neither are 305/70R18. Neither GY nor BFG offer a 305/70R18 according to their websites.

Looking at TireRack, they show 5 different tires for 305/70R18, but 23 tires for 315/70R17. One of which is the Duratrac LR D for $314, but the KO2 in LR C is only $265.
 
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Probably get better answers in the JK forum
 

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Keep the camber within factory specs if easily obtained with factory provided adjustments.
Details, please!!!


With that said, the BFG AT tires that I installed at nearly the same time as the HD ball joints wore perfectly even. I just sold them after 30,000 miles with 90% remaining original tread depth and I did not rotate them one time.
Hopefully you sold them to the Smithsonion Museum. No doubt they would like to have a tire with a tread life of 300,000 miles.
 

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30k miles with 90% tread depth remaining? I find that hard to believe...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, great feedback, much appreciated!

BM3, your weight, I meant to post on J.K. Tech forum, my mistake... I read both forums a lot as my son has a TJ that weave done a fair bunch of upgrades to...

Looks likeI am now leaning back to keeping the 17” and going to 37” tires now! I do like the DC Fun Country, never had any but always liked the tire.

I do less hard off road now and want a quieter tire that measures actually 35”~36”, not like my Duratracs 315/70R17 which measure 33.5” on the Willy’s. With my 4.56 gears I find I rev slightly high when cruising on freeways, ~2700 RPM at 70 MPH. Would like to bring that slightly down and fill my wheel well a bit more..

Thanks again.... I will repost my question in the JK Tech forum shortly...

Em...
 

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The only company that I know that makes offset ball joints is SPC Performance. I know nothing about the quality of there product.
 

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I meant to post on J.K. Tech forum, my mistake...


Thread moved from TJ Tech to JK Tech and merged with duplicate.

If it ever happens again just click on the
icon and let us know :thumb:
 

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I would only buy ball joints from a few companies, and none of them sell offset ball joints.
That said, camber of 0 (zero) is not typical and not where handling is usually best. Tire dynamics aren't that simple.
As mentioned, if your camber is too far off your axle is not straight.
 

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That said, camber of 0 (zero) is not typical and not where handling is usually best. Tire dynamics aren't that simple.
Indeed, there is a lot going on.


With that said, my Prorock 44 has positive camber, about 1 degree IIRC. That's the way they are made because it helps reduce steering effort. It's weird to see a JK with positive camber.
 
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30k miles with 90% tread depth remaining? I find that hard to believe...
Rightfully so. I double checked and the tires had 7,680 miles and had 90% of the original tread depth remaining. I was very wrong about the mileage. :doh2:



Also, note that this is 90% of original tread depth. They would be considered worn out well before 100% of the tread was worn.
 
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