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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

I took my rear seat out some time ago intending to build a fully flat cargo area like the Safari JK a few years ago.

Anyway....it's time. I've removed the carpet and have begun to take measurements. It will essentially cover the entire area back to front that the rear seats took up when folded into the down position.

I plan on utilizing the existing rear seat bolts in the floor right behind the front seat to mount some kind of bracket to support the area of the insert that goes over the dip where the rear seats used to be.

I plan on using 3/4" plywood for the insert.

Step 1: I'll be taking measurements this weekend and drawing up a draft.

Any suggestions I ought to consider/think about is I begin the process?
 

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While I understand the appeal of plywood since it is cheap and readily available, have you considered any other floor materials, maybe ones that are more water proof and likely to hold up better?
 

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I was just thinking the same as Low Altitude said. Problem is, the only reasonably available material I can think of is the ever-wood deck planks, which are rather thick and would eat up a little space. You could look into some type of non-wood sheet goods, a melamine type maybe?

I would also suggest thinking of other ways to incorporate functionality into your design. Greatly dependent on how you use your Jeep. But consider ways to design built-in racks/boxes for storage and such. Camping/sleeping surface.. things like that.

Good luck, sounds like a fun project!!
 

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Aluminum as another option

While I understand the appeal of plywood since it is cheap and readily available, have you considered any other floor materials, maybe ones that are more water proof and likely to hold up better?
^^^ this.

I used aluminum, and it is both lightweight and sturdy.
Not saying this is the best way, but something to consider.
Here is a picture, in case it helps.

In the picture you can see an indoor outdoor carpet on top of a synthetic felt carpet padding. JCDriller used a horse stall mat, which seems like a much better choice.
Hth,
 

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HDPE should work. It's the material those white plastic cutting boards are made out of. Quite a good deal more expensive however...~$200 for a 1/2 thick 4'x8' sheet or ~$300 for a 3/4" thick 4'x8' sheet.
 

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Great feedback everyone.

Comanche Scott - Any chance you can post pictures of your anchor points for the metal brackets holding the platform up?
These aren't the greatest shots, but here are the pics I have.
Also here is a link to the whole build thread.
2014 JKURX "Bought Not Built"...er... build thread - Expedition Portal

Post 218 on page 22 has another picture that shows the passenger side brackets better.



I made it as three separate pieces. There are aluminum angle bolted to the side racks that anchor the main rear plate. The rear plate helps anchor the front plates. Both of which can be removed, without affecting the rear plate. So I can install one or both seats as needed.
The real key to this working out so well is the side racks. They are rock solid, and make a great anchoring point. The dog and I have slept back there comfortably (about 250 lbs).
Here is a shot without the carpet, so you can see all the screws that hold it together.
 

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Plywood is pretty durable, easy to work with and cost effective. Just don't buy construction grade CDX. Go to a real lumber yard and pop for AB or some kind of multi ply sanded shop grade.

Prime and paint it well and it'll even hold up outdoors for some time.

Another material tip: Lumber yards carry 1x2 furring strips for tile roof installs. The stuff is cheap and if you pick through the stack you'll come across some nice pieces with straight and tight grain. - Works great for cleats and structure with the plywood.

HDPE and aluminum would be sweet. Still might want to prototype one with plywood before you start hacking up some expensive materials.
 

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Took this out of my JKUR when I traded it in...sold it to a guy in Colorado who will pick it up next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Took measurements and cut out a template using cardboard.

I won't be elevating it on a base, I'd like to keep it as low as possible.

I've worked it so that the platform can be easily removable to check for rust every now and then. It's looking like I'll only have to drill two holes in the rear near the tie downs closest to the tire gate.
 

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Took this out of my JKUR when I traded it in...sold it to a guy in Colorado who will pick it up next week.
I wanted this so bad when you were selling it, but a bit far for pickup.
 
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