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Hey All. After researching for months on this and other forums (this one has by far and away the best and most information, but I am sure you already knew that), I went ahead with the purchase of the JKS JSPEC 2.5" lift for my 2015 Unlimited Rubicon Hard Rock. For reference, I also purchased the adjustable rear track bar, geo correction brackets and exhaust spacer also all from JKS. In looking through the install instructions, I saw that they suggest drilling new hole for the rear sway bar end links. Rather than go this route, I decided to go with the Rugged Ridge extended sway bar end links for the rear to utilize the factory hole already present. My question then comes to the front sway bar end links. Being a rubicon, I was planning to use the provided hardware to just bolt in the quick disconnects and utilize the electo disconnect. I know some folks like to have both as the electro automatically reconnect at ~18mph, but I really doubt I will come to a situation often enough that it will be worth retaining both options. So my thoughts were to either use the quick disconnects with provided rubicon hardware to make them permanently (or at least without tools) connected, or move the factory rears to the front and sell the quick disconnects. Does anyone see any advantage to either situation? My inclination would be that the JKS might be stronger and last longer than moving the factory rears (my jeep has ~23,000 miles, so the stocks aren't brand new or old by any means).
 

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I can tell you factory rears are about as bullet proof as you will find to run up front. I have used JKS discos up front on rubicons and stock and I actually prefer stock if you are not going to be disconnecting manually. You need to grease the jks and they are messy as the zerks that come with them are pressed in and have no spring loaded ball so grease eases back out the zerk and the grease around the ball on the joints is no joy either. I found they need to be greased often and after awhile they end up with a lot of play. I absolutely love the rear jks adj links tho as they are sealed and easy to adjust to get the rear sway bar perfect.
 

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I just ordered this exact kit except I went with the front LCA for my 2015 JKUR.
I had planned on just installing the adjustable quick disconnects and never disconnect them except with the e-disconnect. But I hadn’t considered their maintenance requirements of having to grease them. I thought all Zerk fittings utilized a ball to prevent back flow of grease. I’ve never seen one that didn’t. Interesting.


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I just ordered this exact kit except I went with the front LCA for my 2015 JKUR.
I had planned on just installing the adjustable quick disconnects and never disconnect them except with the e-disconnect. But I hadn’t considered their maintenance requirements of having to grease them. I thought all Zerk fittings utilized a ball to prevent back flow of grease. I’ve never seen one that didn’t. Interesting.


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the jks's use a red plastic cap that is easily knocked off or lost. First set I bought I thought they were defective but JKS said nope they do that on purpose and they gave me the reason which i have since forgotten.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can tell you factory rears are about as bullet proof as you will find to run up front. I have used JKS discos up front on rubicons and stock and I actually prefer stock if you are not going to be disconnecting manually. You need to grease the jks and they are messy as the zerks that come with them are pressed in and have no spring loaded ball so grease eases back out the zerk and the grease around the ball on the joints is no joy either. I found they need to be greased often and after awhile they end up with a lot of play. I absolutely love the rear jks adj links tho as they are sealed and easy to adjust to get the rear sway bar perfect.
Thanks for the quick and informed response! It seems that there will be no advantage to retaining the JKS up front. Less to maintain and worry about long term is always a plus in my book. I did look at the JKS adjustable rears, but from what I had read some folks had to cut them down to fit with a 2.5" lift and for half the price with excellent reviews it seemed simpler to go ahead with the fixed ones from RR. It's also a relatively simple and inexpensive item to swap out down the road should I get poor performance from the above option.

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Thanks for the quick and informed response! It seems that there will be no advantage to retaining the JKS up front. Less to maintain and worry about long term is always a plus in my book. I did look at the JKS adjustable rears, but from what I had read some folks had to cut them down to fit with a 2.5" lift and for half the price with excellent reviews it seemed simpler to go ahead with the fixed ones from RR. It's also a relatively simple and inexpensive item to swap out down the road should I get poor performance from the above option.

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I got the JKS adjustable sway bar links. And yeah they would have to be cut because the link bar is 12.75 inches long from the start. The factory rear links are 9.5 I think center to center. The instructions even include having to measure and cut it. Didn’t know that either but I’m no stranger to cutting and grinding things. Lol


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I got the JKS adjustable sway bar links. And yeah they would have to be cut because the link bar is 12.75 inches long from the start. The factory rear links are 9.5 I think center to center. The instructions even include having to measure and cut it. Didn’t know that either but I’m no stranger to cutting and grinding things. Lol


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Yea, after doing a but more research, I went ahead and cancelled the RR order and pulled the trigger on the JKS adjustables. If I am going to replace, it makes more sense to have one that I can dial in to my exact height and get the sway bar perfectly level. Plus, aside from the cutting (which isn't a deal breaker), I have no seen a single negative thing about the JKS.
 

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it takes all of 2 minutes to cut the rods with a hacksaw. need a total of 4 cuts it is simple.
they nice thing is if you end up going taller you can lengthen them down the road.
remember to cut the top stud flush when you are done so you don't catch your hard brake line.
 

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it takes all of 2 minutes to cut the rods with a hacksaw. need a total of 4 cuts it is simple.
they nice thing is if you end up going taller you can lengthen them down the road.
remember to cut the top stud flush when you are done so you don't catch your hard brake line.
I think I can handle 4 extra cuts in the install process. Thanks for the tip about the top stud, I had seen on some of the other options that people were having issues with the studs being too long and contacting their wheels/tires and brake lines.
 

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I got the JKS adjustable sway bar links. And yeah they would have to be cut because the link bar is 12.75 inches long from the start. The factory rear links are 9.5 I think center to center. The instructions even include having to measure and cut it. Didn’t know that either but I’m no stranger to cutting and grinding things. Lol
I also installed the JKS JSpec 2.5 lift. And I installed the JKS Adjustable sway bar links in the rear. Yes, you will need to cut them down. It was simple and quick, and they fit perfectly with lots of room should I ever install a higher lift. I'm running the front quicker disconnects for now. Based on this thread, I might rethink that, if the maintenance gets out of hand.

I also installed the JKS front and rear control arms along with the JKS adjustable rear track bar at the same time.

If you haven't done it already, be sure to install the 9/16 bolts into the front track bar. And upgrade all the other bolts as well.
 

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I also installed the JKS JSpec 2.5 lift. And I installed the JKS Adjustable sway bar links in the rear. Yes, you will need to cut them down. It was simple and quick, and they fit perfectly with lots of room should I ever install a higher lift. I'm running the front quicker disconnects for now. Based on this thread, I might rethink that, if the maintenance gets out of hand.

I also installed the JKS front and rear control arms along with the JKS adjustable rear track bar at the same time.

If you haven't done it already, be sure to install the 9/16 bolts into the front track bar. And upgrade all the other bolts as well.
My lift is set to arrive today, as long as this hurricane doesn't slow that progress. How do you like the JKS control arms? I decided to stick with the geo brackets for now, but plan to go to aftermarket control arms in the future. I will keep that in mind when changing out the track bar, thanks!
 

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My lift is set to arrive today, as long as this hurricane doesn't slow that progress. How do you like the JKS control arms? I decided to stick with the geo brackets for now, but plan to go to aftermarket control arms in the future. I will keep that in mind when changing out the track bar, thanks!
I like the JKS CA's, they are much larger than stock, slightly longer to adjust for the lift and seem well made.

If you don't install the 9/16 bolts, you will most likely get DW. This picture is after install, but before the 9/16 bolts and I had DW. 9/16 installed, no more DW.
Pic2.jpg
 

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I also installed the JKS JSpec 2.5 lift. And I installed the JKS Adjustable sway bar links in the rear. Yes, you will need to cut them down. It was simple and quick, and they fit perfectly with lots of room should I ever install a higher lift. I'm running the front quicker disconnects for now. Based on this thread, I might rethink that, if the maintenance gets out of hand.



I also installed the JKS front and rear control arms along with the JKS adjustable rear track bar at the same time.



If you haven't done it already, be sure to install the 9/16 bolts into the front track bar. And upgrade all the other bolts as well.


I asked the folks at JKS about the bolt swap and said they have never done that and as long as bolts are properly torqued you shouldn’t have a problem.

Did you have any figment issues with the larger bolts and the JKS parts?


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I asked the folks at JKS about the bolt swap and said they have never done that and as long as bolts are properly torqued you shouldn’t have a problem.

Did you have any fitment issues with the larger bolts and the JKS parts?


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No, the slightly larger bolts fit perfectly. I had to do the same thing on my 2013 after I had a shop replaced the Front Track bar. I did replace it with a JKS adjustable, but I don't think the manufacturer had anything to do with it.

Yes, torquing all bolts properly is key.
 

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No, the slightly larger bolts fit perfectly. I had to do the same thing on my 2013 after I had a shop replaced the Front Track bar. I did replace it with a JKS adjustable, but I don't think the manufacturer had anything to do with it.

Yes, torquing all bolts properly is key.
Good information to have going in to the lifting process. I appreciate it as well as the thoughts on the control arms. They may make my short list depending on how I like the geo brackets and looking at them hanging down every time I look at my jeep.
 

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I like the JKS CA's, they are much larger than stock, slightly longer to adjust for the lift and seem well made.

If you don't install the 9/16 bolts, you will most likely get DW. This picture is after install, but before the 9/16 bolts and I had DW. 9/16 installed, no more DW.
View attachment 4100549
I am on JK #4 and never have had DW and never installed 9/16" bolts. I keep my oems torqued to proper spec and have countless others that have never had death wobble.
 

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I am on JK #4 and never have had DW and never installed 9/16" bolts. I keep my oems torqued to proper spec and have countless others that have never had death wobble.


I also never did on my 2 door and when I put leveling kit on my 4 door. Never had DW.
So other than time and money. Is there a downside to replacing?


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