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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tuesday I had Bulletliner sprayed in the interior of the JKU. Couldn't be happier local shop did it for 800 this included complete strip of the interior, spraying, and reassembly. I was offered a substantial discount if i stripped it down minus the drivers seat but working 16 hour shift made it impossible. For those who have done it did you just wire loom the harnesses exposed ?







 

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If you go directly to the picture URLs (with most browsers you can right-click to copy or view) they come up, but they're on IMGUR which blocks ultra-high-traffic sites like WranglerForum, sadly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea. I'm working on trying something different I uploaded them to my gallery here so ill try and see if i can put them on this way
 

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Wow, that looks really nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
looks good. report back on how hot/cold the floor gets over time.
He left the sound deadening goop in and sprayed over it since it was still in good condition. I imagine that helps about 1 decibel ha ha but its not too bad I had mud tires before anyway so don't notice much difference.
 

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** warning.. I have migraine. hopefully it makes sense at least**

It's a big headache (haha), but totally worth doing if you have the time and OCD to tackle it. Easiest way is to remove the hardtop and work on a nekkid Jeep. It may take a few days and be undriveable - be prepared. I do a lot of wiring and I think I spent about 18 hours doing mine because I was picky about it.

Driver side - this assumes you are keeping the front kick panels on the floor by the front doors - you're going to reroute your wiring harness at the top of the seatbelt pillar behind the front seat and then over the rear roll ball, exiting at the rear of the roll bar cover to continue on the the original area. What is needed depends on the wiring that already exists of course. This isn't hard, you're basically cutting the existing wire and patching a section in to make it long enough to route through the new area.

You'll want 16/18 gauge AWG wiring, there is also a section of 12/14 AWG for the defroster. You'll need to remove the kick sides by the door edge to see all the wiring. There's also an access panel for the rear door harness (4 door models) on the seatbelt panel. Follow the wiring from the rear forward, a lot of the wiring goes to systems that don't need any work done. You'll have tail lights, brake lights, parking, defrost, wiper, etc. if you have the hardtop from factory there's more wiring then if you had a soft top stock. I prefer extending these wires by cutting them as far forward as possible to make patching easier to hide. You want the patching behind the seatbelt pillar cover or the kick panels at least, it makes the bulkier junction easier to deal with. I also prefer to cut wire at different areas so they don't bulk up in one spot.

Unzip the entire roll bar cover from the back to the middle section. Take your new wiring and mark both ends of each wire somehow - I use colored tags or zip ties usually. I also use solid black wiring on a bulk spool and nothing is colored coded for me otherwise. Route your new wiring to patch in from the tailgate edge up the roll bar, use duck tape to temporarily hold it in place as needed.

Pick a wire from the rear harness and cut it, patching in the new section as you go. You can do it really nice with solder connections and marine heat shrink as well. This isn't hard to do, but doesn't translate well in writing. The reason I keep the front kick panel is because the seatbelt pillar doesn't look nice on the front side without it being there and there are wires you don't want to mess with moving there as well. As I route them up the top of the pillar I carefully route them around the roll bar edges too so they lay flat and don't get crushed by the hardtop or freedom tops. I like using a bit of duck tape to hold them in place as I go at this point.

When done you'll have new patched wiring harness run up the pillar behind the driver's door, out the top and over the roll bar to the rear where you'll want extra wiring to make a nice slack loop from the bottom edge of the roll bar cover to follow the body line down and along the tub side to the grommet where the part of it goes down to the tail light and part goes up to the hardtop plug. the goal is to have the connections for the patch hidden under the roll bar cover and behind the kick panels somewhere. Once the wiring is done and taped nicely to the roll bar to keep it from shifting, I re wrap the roll bar cover around it and zip it all up again.

No more wiring hanging behind the driver's door running to the rear. I use a finger trap type wire wrap now to cover the new harness coming out of the roll bar. I makes it look really nice. You must install it before connecting the wires as it won't go over the plug ends. I use a lighter to burn the ends on it to keep from fraying too.

Passenger side is done the same way but it's easier with less wires. I hope this makes sense. For the sections under the front seat you have two options. Do it nice with the same wire loom which requires removing the harness or cutting it to get to an end (painful) or wrap in a split loom cover and zip tie or velcro it nicely.
 

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Blue being area where first cut is made.

Yellow being patch section.

Red being factory section of rear again.

The yellow section will vary depending on where cuts are made and 4 door or 2 door.

You want to make sure the junction is after the down turn by the shoulder belt to allow enough room.
 
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