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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 2017 Wrangler JKU Sport. A friend redid his complete suspension on his JKU Rubicon and gave me the complete electronic sway bar. My question is how to adapt this unit to my JKU Sport? Is there a way to set it up on an electrical toggel switch?

Thanks....

Jim
 

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You can't do it with a straight toggle switch.... at least not without some pretty major modding of the unit. It has some self contained protections on it and it will only take its marching orders directly from Can Bus after speed limits and Tcases shifting lockouts have been satisfied.



You're better off ordering the harness and instructions as @jadmt suggests.


Your other route is to simply remove the power head and install a manual cable or a manual air actuator.
 

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Your other route is to simply remove the power head and install a manual cable or a manual air actuator.
Or get rid of the electronics and control the actuator directly from a switch, via a delay relay. Some videos on the Interwebs about that, I plan on trying in the spring and posting about it if I succeed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
JKU Rubicon Electronic Sway Bar

Thanks JADMT. Using the OEM wiring harness as you suggested, can I use a spare toggle on my S-Pod as the switch?
 

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Or get rid of the electronics and control the actuator directly from a switch, via a delay relay. Some videos on the Interwebs about that, I plan on trying in the spring and posting about it if I succeed.

That won't work.... and I looked at those videos too... and tried it.



The stop switch for the activating plunger is built onto the pc board where the electronics is. You can't separate them or drive the stop switch independantly. If you remove/bypass the electronics then you MUST build a new stop switch onto the plunger so that it does not overdrive itself into destruction.


It's not an impossible project but it's extremely difficult to set up the stop switch in the EXACT position it needs to be.... and the plunger is only plastic so if you over drive it so much as one single time you will break it.... and these parts are non replaceable. If you break the plunger you have to buy an entire new head.
 

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I agree 100% with Bob on this. the electronics on the smart bar is like way over complicated. Not I suppose it is that way NHTSA or something but it is over the top. I had to replace my harness because I did a flip kit on my smartbar motor because I installed a rough country swaybar skid plate which required the motor to be flipped and of course one of the turn buckle bolts on my drag link somehow caught the connection at the motor and wiped it out. This was a 2016 rubicon.
 

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I was under the impression that someone made a manual conversion for the stock Rubi sway bar.
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...facturing-nolimits-manual-sway-bar-disconnect

No idea if it works, but it seems like a possible option.
I have one of those. It works well and is idiot proof, other than the requirement that you remember to engage or disengage the sway bar. Obviously you need to get out and walk around to the front of the Jeep to do that. They also make an air actuated version, which is a lot more expensive and complicated, but allows “on the fly” engagement/disengagement from the cab.
 

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That won't work.... and I looked at those videos too... and tried it.



The stop switch for the activating plunger is built onto the pc board where the electronics is. You can't separate them or drive the stop switch independantly. If you remove/bypass the electronics then you MUST build a new stop switch onto the plunger so that it does not overdrive itself into destruction.


It's not an impossible project but it's extremely difficult to set up the stop switch in the EXACT position it needs to be.... and the plunger is only plastic so if you over drive it so much as one single time you will break it.... and these parts are non replaceable. If you break the plunger you have to buy an entire new head.
Thanks for the feedback, that will save me from wasting my time!

Since I have onboard air, I may get the EVO air actuator and control it like a locker.
 

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Thanks for the feedback, that will save me from wasting my time!

Since I have onboard air, I may get the EVO air actuator and control it like a locker.

That's your best bet.
I tried the hack and doctor method in the youtube vid and ended up breaking the FUC#$% plastic plunger!


I did almost have it though. A clamp holding my custom end stop switch slipped on my last bench test and the plunger got overdriven. It was fine for about 6 test runs... and then... FUC#%$^!!!
 

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I have one of those. It works well and is idiot proof, other than the requirement that you remember to engage or disengage the sway bar. Obviously you need to get out and walk around to the front of the Jeep to do that. They also make an air actuated version, which is a lot more expensive and complicated, but allows “on the fly” engagement/disengagement from the cab.

I suppose you could try extending that cable into the cab. I looked at that and I was thinking maybe one of those stiff wire throttle cables from a gas lawnmower.


Maybe someday when I have more time on my hands....
 

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Those ESD systems go bad anyway. You're better off without. When mine went, it caused all kinds of electrical issues in my Rubi.
 

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Those ESD systems go bad anyway. You're better off without. When mine went, it caused all kinds of electrical issues in my Rubi.
Me too! Connector shorted, caused tons of weird gremlins, killed my battery, 2 trips to the dealership. Got it disabled now.
 
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You can wire it stand alone, or rig it up with a PLC. I did the stand alone as I have no clue how to program a plc.

You need an off/on/momentary on switch, five pin relay, a resistor, or step down convertor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks everyone for all your feedback. Sounds iffy at best. I guess I will just disconnect the sway bar links. This gives more suspension articulation to begin with.

Jim
 

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I used EVO's no limits pneumatic actuator to retrofit mine. Works like a charm, but it does mean you have to have a compressor.
 

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I used EVO's no limits pneumatic actuator to retrofit mine. Works like a charm, but it does mean you have to have a compressor.
I really like that setup.
That is what I would have done, if I wanted to listen to an air compressor.

How long have you had it, and has it given you any issues at all?
Any freezing moisture in air line in the winter?
 

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I really like that setup.
That is what I would have done, if I wanted to listen to an air compressor.

How long have you had it, and has it given you any issues at all?
Any freezing moisture in air line in the winter?
The compressor should only run for a second or so, if it has a pressure switch.
 
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I really like that setup.
That is what I would have done, if I wanted to listen to an air compressor.

How long have you had it, and has it given you any issues at all?
Any freezing moisture in air line in the winter?
I've had it installed since the summer. I've had absolutely no issues at all. Keep in mind that the air is used to disconnect the sway bar, not connect it, so you only run the compressor when you're wheeling. I hear the compressor once when I turn it on, and once for about a second when pressure equalizes after I disconnect. That's it.

The compressor should only run for a second or so, if it has a pressure switch.
Bingo.
 
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