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I installed the Teraflex 2.5" lift and pro comp 35x12.5x17r tires on my 2013 Rubicon. Now whenever I flex the rear tires even a little bit I get a rubbing in the rear in the rock rails themselves as well as the metal behind the rock rail. If I remove the rock rails, the metal behind the rock rails will still be there and will rub. I'm assuming I just have to cut this.

Anyone run into this?

If so, what were your solutions?
 

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Hey Tom, I just cut my pinch seam and Rubi rails over the weekend. It's an easy job if you have the tool. I used a RotoZip and cutting wheel on the pinch seam and a reciprocating saw on the Rubi rail.

Obviously you'll need to remove the Rubi rails, but that's very easy. Three large bolts and 6 smaller ones hold it to the Jeep.

Then just tape off and cut in a smooth, straight motion. Try to do it with one motion rather than stopping and starting.

I then filed off the burrs and painted the exposed metal on each item.

You can check my build thread for some information as well.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/kramer2ks-build-thread-191626.html#post2886558
 

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Yep, remove the rails and trim them, then trim the pinch seam.

Just don't cut too far into the pinch seam or you will leave behind a gaping hole when you are done.
 

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You could also get a set rear control arms that will push the axle back and center the wheel in the well.
 

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Here's a write up I did this winter, when I cut mine. Doesn't include Rubi rails...I didn't have em on my Jeep.

Not difficult to do. The most time-consuming step is rustproofing/painting.

Cutting your pinch seam
 

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Very nice! If only I had these tools really available...
The only thing that really costs any $$ is the Sawzall. Probably somebody you know has one...I've seen posts on JKF where guys cut their pinch seams with a Dremel, but it apparently takes several bits to get it done, and you gotta be careful not to burn the Dremel up. :D

Then there's the BFH method, which I wouldn't recommend. Just seems kinda...prehistoric. Could just be me.

Borrowing (or renting, another option) a Sawzall would be the way to go.
 

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The only thing that really costs any $$ is the Sawzall. Probably somebody you know has one...I've seen posts on JKF where guys cut their pinch seams with a Dremel, but it apparently takes several bits to get it done, and you gotta be careful not to burn the Dremel up. :D
That's what I did essentially. But I used a RotoZip on my pinch seam. My RotoZip is basically a Dremel on steroids. All metal construction and beefy as hell! Selectable RPMs from 15K up to 30K. :punk:

I used a metal cutoff wheel and slowly progressed along my tape line. The cutoff wheel I used:



I didn't feel comfortable making a diagonal cut through the changing contours of the pinch seam with my recipricating saw. The rail, on the otherhand, was a breeze with the sawzall.
 

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That's what I did essentially. But I used a RotoZip on my pinch seam. My RotoZip is basically a Dremel on steroids. All metal construction and beefy as hell! Selectable RPMs from 15K up to 30K. :punk:

I used a metal cutting bit and slowly progressed along my tape line. I didn't feel comfortable making a diagonal cut through the changing contours of the pinch seam with my recipricating saw. The rail, on the otherhand, was a breeze with the sawzall.
30K? Who makes the RotoZip? Sounds like yet another must-have tool. Although, in my mind, they're all must-haves. :D

I actually avoided cutting into the "pocket" – the varying contours you mentioned above – and simply cut off the protruding triangle of the pinch seam itself. That's all I needed, for my setup. I think if you actually had to cut into the pocket, the whole process would be a lot more involved, in terms of filling, rustproofing, and painting.
 
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