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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys.
Started reading some threads a few months back when I started looking for a YJ or TJ.
I used to have a 1998 TJ Sahara about 5 years ago. Purely bought it to get me through a winter while I had two Mustangs and a motorcycle. It was stock minus some tires.

I am picking up a 1994 YJ 4.0 5spd on saturday.
I was being picky, I didnt want a 2.5L, no automatics, and no heavy body or frame rust, and not overpriced.
Took a bit to find one, but glad I waited. Black on black hard top.
It has offroad style flat front fenders, not sure what they style is called.
Black steel 15" wheels, very new Bridgestone AT's.
This one has 130k on it. And the frame is very clean, and the tub only has some surface rust on the floor pans- no carpet.
Needs a rear wheel cylinder to make it road ready.
I already ordered all the brake parts for it- calipers, pads, rotors, hoses, master cylinder, booster, wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, etc.
This winter I will bring it into my shop and replace a bunch of front end stuff- ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings/hubs, sway bar links, u-joints, etc.
Basically go through all the wear items on the chassis, clean stuff up, paint a bunch of components.
Also will be doing a full tune up, powerwashing the chassis, cleaning up the engine bay etc.



Any thing in particular I should look into right away?
I dont plan to lift it very high, or put huge tires on it.
I bought it mostly as a back up vehicle, if I need to work on my truck, I can still have a vehicle to drive.
Also, it will serve well as a winter vehicle for my GF.

Thanks for any tips!
 

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Vaccum lines make sure there in good condition and not blocked by oil stuff. Mostly on ones leading to your CAD from your transfer case. These dont work no 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thats funny Hoagie, I ordered some Por15 yesterday.
I am a big fan of Rustoleum Rust Reformer as well. It works great in the aerosol form.

What do you mean by CAD?
I tested it in the parking lot, it shifts in and out of 4x4 pretty easily.
 

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Hey guys.
Started reading some threads a few months back when I started looking for a YJ or TJ.
I used to have a 1998 TJ Sahara about 5 years ago. Purely bought it to get me through a winter while I had two Mustangs and a motorcycle. It was stock minus some tires.

I am picking up a 1994 YJ 4.0 5spd on saturday.
I was being picky, I didnt want a 2.5L, no automatics, and no heavy body or frame rust, and not overpriced.
Took a bit to find one, but glad I waited. Black on black hard top.
It has offroad style flat front fenders, not sure what they style is called.
Black steel 15" wheels, very new Bridgestone AT's.
This one has 130k on it. And the frame is very clean, and the tub only has some surface rust on the floor pans- no carpet.
Needs a rear wheel cylinder to make it road ready.
I already ordered all the brake parts for it- calipers, pads, rotors, hoses, master cylinder, booster, wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, etc.
This winter I will bring it into my shop and replace a bunch of front end stuff- ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings/hubs, sway bar links, u-joints, etc.
Basically go through all the wear items on the chassis, clean stuff up, paint a bunch of components.
Also will be doing a full tune up, powerwashing the chassis, cleaning up the engine bay etc.



Any thing in particular I should look into right away?
I dont plan to lift it very high, or put huge tires on it.
I bought it mostly as a back up vehicle, if I need to work on my truck, I can still have a vehicle to drive.
Also, it will serve well as a winter vehicle for my GF.

Thanks for any tips!

Congrats on your new YJ but I have a feeling that what I highlighted in red will not be the case. :) The more you drive it the more your truck will become your back up vehicle :)
My mom just purchased an 97 TJ. She drives it more than her Mercedes SUV. :dance:
 
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rykemc said:
Congrats on your new YJ but I have a feeling that what I highlighted in red will not be the case. :) The more you drive it the more your truck will become your back up vehicle :)
My mom just purchased an 97 TJ. She drives it more than her Mercedes SUV. :dance:
I agree after I bought my 95 YJ, I stopped driving my Volvo DD and sold it plus my new Sierra just sits in the driveway!! Hey at least it will have low miles on it right!!! Lol, no but honestly ur gonna fall mad I love with ur YJ, I hate when I'm not driving it unless I'm on my cruiser
 

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change all the fluids synthetic is the way i went there is no telling how long it has since it as last changed
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wish that would be the case as far as a DD goes...............
My truck weighs 7000lbs, will tow anything I put on the hitch, pulls away from most stock V8 sports cars, gets 18mpg lifted on 35's, and it puts money in my pocket every time I tow with it- everyday.

Ill be honest, its mostly for my GF. Her Honda Fit Sport is terrible in the snow, even with really good tires on it. She needs a snow beast so she doesnt miss work on those borderline travel days.

Thanks Tyler. I planned to change all the fluids in the driveline and engine as well.
I am a BIG fan of synthetics.

I read about a posi lock cable upgrade for the 4x4 system, what does that entail? I assume it gets rid of the vacuum operated front axle engagement?

Also, I need to find out what brand and size lift is on the Jeep. I have a feeling that I will be changing the leafs/shocks this winter any way. I would like to start fresh with the entire suspension- ball joints, bearings, bushings, tie rods, track bar, etc.

Lovin this site so far. Lots of good reading.
 

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Any thing in particular I should look into right away?
I dont plan to lift it very high, or put huge tires on it.
I bought it mostly as a back up vehicle, if I need to work on my truck, I can still have a vehicle to drive.
Also, it will serve well as a winter vehicle for my GF.
Aside from a full tuneup, there's a handful of things you should look at deleting or upgrading:

First off, the Track Bars. Since you said you are mainly going to be using it as a backup vehicle, there might not be any need to remove them. Entirely up to you, I've been driving my Jeep daily on the roads without them for over a year and wouldn't ever leave them on any YJ I buy.

Headlights. You should look into using relays to power your headlights right off the get go. It's an inexpensive upgrade and can improve light output quite a bit with the stock Wagner lights, almost a night and day difference. A must for safety at least.

A/T SNOW rated tires, but I think you already knew about this one.

I read about a posi lock cable upgrade for the 4x4 system, what does that entail? I assume it gets rid of the vacuum operated front axle engagement?
Yes, it rids the system of the vacuum setup and just uses a cable to move the shift fork. You could also swap in a TJ axle shaft and not use the vacuum system.

Also, I need to find out what brand and size lift is on the Jeep. I have a feeling that I will be changing the leafs/shocks this winter any way. I would like to start fresh with the entire suspension- ball joints, bearings, bushings, tie rods, track bar, etc.
Well if you're going to change everything out, might as well save yourself the time, effort, and extra expense and just remove the track bars entirely. There are several thousand YJ owners on this site alone that don't drive with them on without any issues. There are a handful of other Jeep websites with countless thousands more YJ owners who don't use them. Infact any YJ owner recommends removing them once they have removed them. Keep your swaybar on though, it does serve a purpose on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's got Bridgestones on it. They aren't rated the best. But they are brand new.

I'm picking up the jeep Saturday. But already have most of the parts. Anyone know what length brake lines I will need for the rear?

Xpress- any ideas for a place to score TJ axles? Do the stockers tend to fail?

Looks like this hurricane might hit my area Monday. Might not leave the jeep in my shop over the weekend. It's only 1ft above sea level.
 
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