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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
alright so I'm an idiot and I went a little too deep in the water this weekend and my understanding is I now need to change all my fluids out. I've been reading all day trying to figure out exactly how much and what I need. Frankly my brain hurts at this point.

Can those of you that know chime in and tell me if what I found is correct? These are the quantities I would need to buy, not exactly what it will take. I realize there are as many opinions as there are drivers as to what brand etc to use. Im just trying to simplify so I know what to look for when I get to the parts store.

2003 TJ Rubicon

Transfer Case: 3 qts = ATF +4
Transmission: 3 qts = ATF +4
Front & rear Diff: 4 qts 75w140 gear oil (2 qts each)

Basically 4 qts of gear oil and 6 qts of ATF +4 ??
 

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if your tranny, tcase, diffs, and engine don't leak, I wouldn't change any of um. not unless I could see water on the dipstick.
 

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Transfer case should be sealed pretty good. If you look at your dipstick for your transmission and it is pinkish then change it. As far as diffs, I use 80w90 conventional in the front and 75w-140 synthetic in the rear. Make sure you buy a quart or two extra just in case

I use Supertech (Walmart) fluid for all this stuff and it hasn't blown up.
 

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IMO....

Don't worry about the tranny, the TC is a toss up. If you want to go ahead because it is super easy. The diffs should def be changed. As far as the amounts you are more than welcome to agonize over the amounts(remember that hurting brain of yours?), but filling to the top of the fill hole is just fine on the TC and diffs. ATF for the TC and gear oil for the diffs.

Oh and you're gonna need some RTV for the seal on the diffs and teflon tape isn't a bad idea for all the plugs on any of them.
 

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You don't need RTV if your just going to drain and fill. But it probably isn't a bad idea to pull the covers and clean everything up.

X2 on the teflon tape as well forgot about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the input so far. I gotta say I'm a bit surprised as everything I have ran into on the searches has made it out to be a life or death situation and I better change it all before my jeep blows up! Your responses so far make it seem like it's not as big of a deal as what I had been reading.

I crossed a river that ended up alot deeper then we thought. I had water up over the hood at one point. We got stuck in a rut right in the middle for at least 2 minutes before gaining traction and getting out on the other side. I really thought we were going to have to winch it out. The floorboards filled with water up to the bottom of the seats. I'm really glad I mounted my amp under the dash instead of under the seat!

Everything drives fine and honestly I don't really have the time or money available to change out all the fluids but I don't want to destroy the thing either.

On the amounts I don't have issues with "fill till it weeps out" just trying to figure out how much that actually is so I can buy the proper amount without overspending.
 

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Define "a little deep". :-D

FWIW, I was up to the "eye-balls" (headlights) once. The beaver I flushed out of the bushes wasn't pleased that he had to swim in front of me for a sec. ;-)
Stock Sport TJ. No water in the trann'y, or diff's, I looked. No worries.
 

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If you are really worried about the funds, pull the fill plugs first and check your fluids to see if any water got in. If it is good clean the plugs, put a little teflon tape on and you are good to go. If any of them are milky they need to be changed asap. A can of brake cleaner will flush out the nasties. My 06 rubicon specs call for synthetic 75w 140 in the diffs and I hear to be careful and not over tighten the fill plug on the rear as it can cause problems with the locker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
CharlesKent, sorry I don't know them.

OlyellerTJ, up onto the fenders and at one point a dip put it up over the hood for a second. We got stuck half way across a river and sat there for a good couple minutes trying to get traction. Once it finally hooked up we were out onto the other side.

McGuyver, I did just that tonight. The funds isn't really the major issue, explaining why my shenanigans cost me even more money to the wife is. :whistling: Time is a also concern, and I wasn't planning on spending my day off this week doing this. I had other plans for tomorrow but what can you do. More then anything though my pride is hurt from the rookie mistake. Having to pony up for it and fix it hurts lol


Well when I got home I checked the front diff through the fill plug and it looks ok. Seems to be clean gear oil, no murk or cloudiness, wasn't dark at all. Moved to the back and I could tell the rear was toast through the fill plug so I popped the drain on it. Then I moved to the transfer case and through the fill plug I couldn't really tell. I decided to drain it and I'm glad I did, pink and milky. However I didn't realize it was going to drain with so much force, needless to say I made a huge mess. Unfortunately I couldn't get to the transmission as I don't have an allen head big enough to get the plugs out. I'm guessing if the TC was contaminated the tranny probably is as well.

So it looks like I'll be doing some fluid fills tomorrow. Is it really necessary that I pull the rear diff cover? Or is it ok to just refill it? Same with the tranny? What size allen head do I need to get the TC plugs out?? If it was yours would you go ahead and just do the front diff too?
 

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If it were my jeep i would definitely do both diffs. As far as pulling the cover off it's really not necessary but i would do it if it were mine just because i always like to inspect the gears/locker. Just refill the tranny and you should be good. I would do the tranny again in a few thousand miles because I'm pretty sure you wont be able to get all the fluid out of the lines.

I just looked in my tool drawer and the allen covered with ATF was a 10mm. Be careful with the drain on the T-Case don't just pull out the drain plug otherwise it will be a mess. I put paper towels all around the case and then I limit the flow with the drain plug.

Oh and if you had water over the hood check out the air filter too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the reply Moabrubi, I actually edited my post because I confused the TC and the tranny initially when I was typing. Thats what I get for watching TV and posting at the same time. It's correct now. The TC was what I drained and yes I made a huge mess lol. The tranny is what I don't have an allen big enough for. I just found out I need a 17mm for it.

The more I think about it, the better I would feel if I did go ahead and do both diffs. It will bug me otherwise.
 

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Ok then atf is the wrong fluid. If it's a 6 spd then Pennzoil synchromesh is what you want. If it's a 5spd I don't know what fluids they use.
 

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Look just changing the fluids is neither economical nor smart. I go through deep water frequently. Check the fluids afterwards and regularly check your breather hoses, that is what they are there for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For future reference. Avoid using your clutch in deep water like such.

Can you elaborate on this? I apologize in advance for my ignorance..

I got the tranny open today and wow, yea the fluid was done for. Looked like a milkshake when it started draining, then turned to brown murk. In the pan the milkshake settled to the bottom.

I got everything changed then decided to take it for a drive. As soon as I started to back down the drive way something was way wrong. The rear locker was locked up on me! No light in the dash to indicate it though. So I turned it on and back off again but it wouldn't go off!! That stupid light just blinking at me, even after shutting it all the way down and taking the key out still blinking "Rear Lock". Damnit.

Then I remembered what McGuyver had posted earlier about the plug and not tightening it too tight as it could cause problems with the locker. I did use a torque wrench and went to exactly 25ft pounds. Apparently it still set the plug too deep and caused the locker to lock itself and wouldn't let go! I backed it out and doubled up on the teflon tape and put it back in I just didn't snug it down all the way. Not sure what to do here, Ill have to see if it starts to weep then figure out what to do to snug it down further without interfering with the locker.
 

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DNKC said:
Can you elaborate on this? I apologize in advance for my ignorance..

I got the tranny open today and wow, yea the fluid was done for. Looked like a milkshake when it started draining, then turned to brown murk. In the pan the milkshake settled to the bottom.

I got everything changed then decided to take it for a drive. As soon as I started to back down the drive way something was way wrong. The rear locker was locked up on me! No light in the dash to indicate it though. So I turned it on and back off again but it wouldn't go off!! That stupid light just blinking at me, even after shutting it all the way down and taking the key out still blinking "Rear Lock". Damnit.

Then I remembered what McGuyver had posted earlier about the plug and not tightening it too tight as it could cause problems with the locker. I did use a torque wrench and went to exactly 25ft pounds. Apparently it still set the plug too deep and caused the locker to lock itself and wouldn't let go! I backed it out and doubled up on the teflon tape and put it back in I just didn't snug it down all the way. Not sure what to do here, Ill have to see if it starts to weep then figure out what to do to snug it down further without interfering with the locker.
Operating the clutch underwater can damage it. Water gets into the manual transmission from the bottom of the trans. Where the bellhousing attaches to the front of the transmission there are slots in the housing. Avoid the clutch to prevent mud/debris from getting In between the pressure plate/disc/flywheel. Scoring and causing damage. :)
 
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