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My daughter's '14 Wrangler KC Hilites that I installed last spring just went out. I tried to carefully look for loose connections, blow fuses, wore through insulation, connected and disconnected connections to make sure they were good, read posts about what this might be, and finally, just a few minutes ago made a break-through. Or thought I did. After watching some videos on 5 pin relays, I learned how to test one. And I noted that there was no switching sound when I connected this directly to the battery.

So, I bought a new 5 pin relay and the driver's light immediately came on. I thought - oh crap - how do I service the passenger side bulb, looked this up and learned about the 23 year warranty and took the below photo to go inside to send KC an email asking for a new bulb/light and when I turned the switch off...

The light went off on the driver's side and the light came on, on the passenger side. :bop:

Dumbfounded, I believe that this means that I disconnected something and didn't connect it right, but never expected something like this.

I have a volt-ohm-amp meter but I'm a layman if I need to go test something. I did not buy a KC3300 relay, but a generic one I found at O'Reilly's.

Any ideas to try. For now I pulled the relay to dose the lights. The power is connected direct to battery, so I had t pull the relay or fuse or one light would stay on forever.

Thanks for any help and I don't mind you telling me that I'm an idiot...
 

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Do you have the lights connected to the 87 and 87A terminals on the relay? If its double 87s you should be fine, if its not then it will flip flop (as seems to be the problem.) It probably came with a double 87 relay, so you need to get one of those or put both light wires to the 87 terminal...
 

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Trace your wires coming off of the lights. Follow both wires back to where they connect to the relay (or anywhere else too). With a single pole relay (as opposed to the double pole that was described above) you can connect both of the "hot" wires from the lights together, then have a single connection on the appropriate terminal of the relay.

Then just make sure that all of your connections are in the proper location, and you should be OK. The relay points should be well labeled. Hope the image below helps.
**EDIT** 86 should be coming from your switch



Exco
 

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a relay has a "coil" that electro-magnetically "pulls" the contacts together.
the contacts can be "normally" open (no power to coil) or normally closed,
again, no power to coil, but the coil would open the contacts when power was applied.
what you described is a double pole relay. power from battery comes in on the "common" terminal, and goes out on the normally closed terminal when the switch is off (no power to coil). when the switch is on (power to coil), the normally closed side opens, and the normally open side closes.
sounds like you have the switch wired correctly. hook it back up the way you had it. pull off one of the wires (with the switch off) to find the one that goes to the light that is on. both wires need to go to the single terminal that makes the light come on when the switch is on.
if the relay has tabs on it for connecting the wires, you can get a connector that has one female tab, and 2 male tabs at any auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, thank you everyone for the help. The issue originally was a dead relay and the issue is that the KC3300 has a double 87s, not the 87a and 87 of the typical 5-pin relay. So buy the KC part and all is happy in the world again. Thanks for your help!
 

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Double 87 relays are not KC only part. Just need to find a place that sells them.
You could join the two wires that connect to the 87's and attach them just to one 87 if thats all you have as well...
 
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