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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Remove the canister from the bracket. Cut off the pieces of the bracket that prevent it from sitting flat. Enlarge two existing holes for new bolts (I used 3/8" bolts).
When the canister is installed, mine sits level with the top of the fender. The hose inlets point toward the firewall.

Use the tab with original nut and bolt to secure the canister to the bracket.

It is forward enough to clear the shock stud (for easy removal of shock).
I will get you a close-up of the other two items. Once again, just cut off extra metal from bracket to let it sit flush to fender, drill a couple new holes and bolt in place.
Awesome! This helps alot. I have it in pieces and cut one of the parts of the bracket off so far. It's mostly the second two pieces that are the problem. A close up of those two would be extremely helful
 

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Sorry for the bad pictures. The garage was dark and there's lots of stuff in the way of a clear shot.

You can see how the piece with the round top fits up against the fender and the other part stretches out into the bay.






 

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The top bolt goes through the stock hole that holds that cylinder to the bracket....just enlarged the hole. The lower hole was just drilled somewhere down the middle toward the bottom.

The other part with all the tubes around it just kinda floats out there. The bracket is rigid so it's not an issue.
Once again, you just have to cut a couple pieces off of the original bracket to make it sit flush.


In the third pic, you can see the last part that has that green cap on it. It is currently zip tied to the grille support rod, but I picked up some thin metal strapping to bend up and attach to the fender for a permanent mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
What are you doing about the air intake?
I have a cowl intake from the PO. It's made by spectre. I plan on mounting the rest of the stuff tomorrow, following a trip to the hardware store. Patrick, those pictures are a great help and I'm going to try and set my canister up like that tomorrow. I got the hood cut today, will post pics tomorrow.

After that, in goes the Detroit rear, front turn signals and license plate lights and it will be back on the road. :)
 

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Patrick, those pictures are a great help and I'm going to try and set my canister up like that tomorrow.
Just remember, when you hold the pieces up against the fender just cut off whatever is in the way of making it sit flat. After that, it is just a matter of picking a couple spots to drill holes and insert bolts.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Just remember, when you hold the pieces up against the fender just cut off whatever is in the way of making it sit flat. After that, it is just a matter of picking a couple spots to drill holes and insert bolts.
Good luck!


In this picture, is the piece that the red arrow is pointing to bolted to anything? It is attached to the piece that the blue arrow is pointing to, which I assume is bolted into the fender. Is it (the red arrow piece) just attached to the hoses connecting to it and free to wobble around?
 

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The blue part is bolted to the fender. The red arrow part is attached to the same bracket as the blue arrow part. It is fully supported by the bracket...not the hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·


I figured it out after I saw the bracket when I went back outside :bop:. I cut a few parts off of that bracket and screwed everything in. Started the engine and got a p0144 code which is evap leak. Found out that I forgot to connect one of the sensor wires and all was good. Thanks for your help! And I stole your idea of zip tying that thing to the support. It will probably stay like that permanently.

Now all I have to do is take a flap disk to the hood to get it to sit perfectly, wire up my turn signals. THEN comes installing my locker.

On another note. I added my license plate lights, then went to test out my turn signals and my flasher relay started buzzing at me whenever I went to turn on the signals. I assume it's my flasher relay, and I will probably just replace it with an EP-26. I think it blew because I tried turning on the hazards.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Awww yea!
I wanted to high line, but I think the effort required I'll probably cloak it instead.
Yeah, metalcloaks were my first choice. They are ridiculously priced though. Like $600 without flares. Then you add powdercoating, shipping, turn signals etc. When I priced it out it came to about $1200 shipped from MC.:censored:
Now that it's done, I prefer the look of the highline over the MC's. But the MC look pretty mean too. Honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either.

Looking awesome!!
Thank You! Can't wait to see the final result of yours!

In other news, I wired my 2 wire LED marker lights to be turn signals also.


Followed the write up here:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f322/led-turn-signal-installation-success-702650.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·


Flap disking the hood today. Hoping to get it to fit perfectly

Also, I pressed the carrier bearings on and put them in the diff. It took a rubber mallet to get it in all the way, and from what I've read that is just the right amount of preload fr the carrier. I do not have any gear marking grease/compound, nor do any of the auto parts stores or the dealerships in my area. So I am waiting on that in the mail. I don't know what I'm going to do if the pattern is bad. Probably drive it over to a shop? I don't have the tools, shims, knowledge to get the patterns and backlash just right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Decision has been made...
I made some calls and I am having the gears set up by a shop in Dallas for $300. It was a hard decision because 1) I lack the tools to do the work myself (Bearing puller, dial gauge to measure backlash, etc.) 2) a carrier bearing puller is about $300 in itself 3) I would have to wait a week to get a shim pack in. Plus, I am getting it done by a guy who sets up R&Ps for a living, so I will know it's done right. I am just ready to have this thing done seeing how it's been out of commission for almost a month.

I am disconnecting the rear axle, pulling it out, hauling it down to the shop and should have it on the road by the middle of next week.... fingers crossed.

Also, I want to go wheeling soon and having F/R lockers will take my rig to the next level..... Now to save for bigger tires, SYE/CV, TC skid, regear.... etc haha. It never ends :)
 

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Decision has been made...
I made some calls and I am having the gears set up by a shop in Dallas for $300. It was a hard decision because 1) I lack the tools to do the work myself (Bearing puller, dial gauge to measure backlash, etc.) 2) a carrier bearing puller is about $300 in itself 3) I would have to wait a week to get a shim pack in. Plus, I am getting it done by a guy who sets up R&Ps for a living, so I will know it's done right. I am just ready to have this thing done seeing how it's been out of commission for almost a month.

I am disconnecting the rear axle, pulling it out, hauling it down to the shop and should have it on the road by the middle of next week.... fingers crossed.

Also, I want to go wheeling soon and having F/R lockers will take my rig to the next level..... Now to save for bigger tires, SYE/CV, TC skid, regear.... etc haha. It never ends :)
Hey at least you tried. Let me know when you go wheeling if it's not too far from CS. Got back from Hidden Falls this morning.
 
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