[Floridarubi]

Yeah, its just a constant tick tick tick tick tick. And when I press down on the clutch it dissapears. If I slightly press on the clutch to where the sound is almost surpressed and release the clutch slowly the sound stays away. From almost every angle its leading me to beleive its the spring.

 

[Water Dog]

Yeah, its just a constant tick tick tick tick tick. And when I press down on the clutch it dissapears. If I slightly press on the clutch to where the sound is almost surpressed and release the clutch slowly the sound stays away. From almost every angle its leading me to beleive its the spring.

Sounds like a good possibility.

 

[Floridarubi]

Ill keep an eye, or should I say ear on it. Making sure nothing else is out of tune. But for now thanks alot for the advice.

KEEP ON ROLLING!

 

[cuder]

You probably should go ahead and let Chrysler know that they are wrong and used the wrong terminology in the FSM. The fact is, that it is a return spring and if you have the transmission out sitting on the floor and pull the throw out arm forward, the spring will in fact pull the arm back when you release. If the slave cylinder maintained pressure on the throwout arm to keep the opposite end against the ball, it would also force the throwout bearing to constantly ride on the pressure plate, which it doesn't.

So, Do you think the clip returns the arm when the tranny is stabbed? ha. The DA's at Chrysler didn't build the tranny, they have in the past and will in the future get shit wrong, recalls.

Do you think the hydraulic pressure in the master/slave system releases when the clutch isn't pushed?

Go out to your Jeep and push the clutch pedal. I bet you feel resistance from the very top. The few inches it takes for the clutch disc to disengage is the distance it takes for the pressure plate to release the disc off of the flywheel.

 

[cuder]

Yeah, its just a constant tick tick tick tick tick. And when I press down on the clutch it dissapears. If I slightly press on the clutch to where the sound is almost surpressed and release the clutch slowly the sound stays away. From almost every angle its leading me to beleive its the spring.

It's the pilot bearing making the noise. How many miles do you have on the clutch?

 

[Majnoon]

So, Do you think the clip returns the arm when the tranny is stabbed? ha. The DA's at Chrysler didn't build the tranny, they have in the past and will in the future get shit wrong, recalls. Do you think the hydraulic pressure in the master/slave system releases when the clutch isn't pushed? Go out to your Jeep and push the clutch pedal. I bet you feel resistance from the very top. The few inches it takes for the clutch disc to disengage is the distance it takes for the pressure plate to release the disc off of the flywheel.

Your talking crap at the wrong dude. The clip allows the release fork to stay stable to release the clutch. With out it the other end of the release fork can come off the pivot ball. Binding the throwout bearing and causing tons of cool sounds and problems depending where the fork goes off the ball. May even be intermittent if the fork lands on the ball again. Ya return spring is a stupid name. I think he said so.

 

[Majnoon]

Yeah, its just a constant tick tick tick tick tick. And when I press down on the clutch it disappears.

DEFIANTLY not your pilot bearing. It only moves when the pedal is down.

 

[Water Dog]

So, Do you think the clip returns the arm when the tranny is stabbed? ha. The DA's at Chrysler didn't build the tranny, they have in the past and will in the future get shit wrong, recalls.

Do you think the hydraulic pressure in the master/slave system releases when the clutch isn't pushed?

Go out to your Jeep and push the clutch pedal. I bet you feel resistance from the very top. The few inches it takes for the clutch disc to disengage is the distance it takes for the pressure plate to release the disc off of the flywheel.

There exist an approximately 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the face of the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers (with the clutch up). Between the spinning pressure plate and the slight spring pressure of the return spring there is enough pressure to overcome the little bit of hydraulics left in the system that is already flowing back to the master cylinder from the pressure plate springs.

I can see that you aren't impressed by what the car maker has to say on the subject, but "just in case" they might know what they're talking about, here's an excerpt from the FSM. Notice that if the release arm brings the throw out bearing "into contact", that it must have been out of contact originally.

If you're still not convinced, I'm done here. BTW, I think I know how a clutch works, I've been doing them for forty years.

 

[Water Dog]

defiantly not your pilot bearing. It only moves when the pedal is down.

^^^x2

 

[cuder]

DEFIANTLY not your pilot bearing. It only moves when the pedal is down.

I'm pretty sure you don't know what a pilot bearing is by reading that statement?

 

[cuder]

^^^x2

Really 40 years? And you don't know what a pilot bearing is either?

It is what supports the end of your input shaft and is located in the end of the crank shaft in the middle of the flywheel.
It spins the entire time the motor is running, maybe because it is pressed in the crank shaft.

Also have you ever put on a slave cyclinder or took one off? The bolts are long for a reason, because the rod puts pressure on the clutch fork the entire time. And the only thing to keep the clutch fork from stopping the forward motion is the fingers on the pressure plate.

OK now I'm done. TY,TYVM

 

[Water Dog]

Really 40 years? And you don't know what a pilot bearing is either?

It is what supports the end of your input shaft and is located in the end of the crank shaft in the middle of the flywheel.
It spins the entire time the motor is running, maybe because it is pressed in the crank shaft.

Also have you ever put on a slave cyclinder or took one off? The bolts are long for a reason, because the rod puts pressure on the clutch fork the entire time. And the only thing to keep the clutch fork from stopping the forward motion is the fingers on the pressure plate.

OK now I'm done. TY,TYVM

The transmission input shaft is locked together with the end of the crank shaft (with the pilot between) if the clutch is disengaged (pedal up) so both shafts are turning the same speed with the "whole" pilot bearing spinning as an assembly, and not turning within itself...both races turning at the same speed.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Also have you ever put on a slave cyclinder or took one off? The bolts are long for a reason...

I don't recall the mounting bolts on the TJ's external slave cylinder being long at all.

 

[cuder]

They are actually studs with nuts and are around 3/4" to 1" long.

What's your thoughts on the clip/return springs purpose?
Do you think the throwout bearing turns when the clutch is engaged?

 

[Wattapunk]

OP, I had the same odd noise that was also resolved or lessened with slight or full clutch pressure. I figured it was the TO bearing and just drove it that way for about 10K miles until coming up on a stop light one day with the clutch in, it made a screeching noise with clutch engaged. I drove it next day to a local shop to have a Luk clutch kit installed. Problem solved, no issues since. Mine was the TO bearing along with a broken fork. Regardless, just drive it until you can't no more. When the time comes, I suggest a Luk clutch kit and make sure the shop DOES NOT resurface the flywheel.

 

[Floridarubi]

How much did you end up paying for parts and service? I really beleive its the fork making the noise. I went under my jeep and put upwards pressure behind the flywheel or bellhousing not sure of the proper terminology. By doing so, the sound goes away. So im really inclined to beleive its the fork.

 

[Wattapunk]

I paid $700 for parts and labor. Since you are already in there, I would replace the whole clutch kit. They're not that expensive and will give you peace of mind knowing all parts are replaced.

 

[Majnoon]

I'm pretty sure you don't know what a pilot bearing is by reading that statement?

Pretty sure I put one in and know exactly what it is. Your ignorant. Not an insult. Just dictionary wise. .

 

[Majnoon]

How much did you end up paying for parts and service? I really beleive its the fork making the noise. I went under my jeep and put upwards pressure behind the flywheel or bellhousing not sure of the proper terminology. By doing so, the sound goes away. So im really inclined to beleive its the fork.

I would order a LuK and ask for it to be installed. You will be ensured quality components and no parts price gouging. It includes a clutch, throwout bearing and pilot bearing all for $100. Stealership charged me $230 for a $130 autozone clutch. It went bad 5 months later. I was living in a motel moving from Alaska to Missouri is why I let them touch my jeep. Just under $800 total. Had my house when it went out and for $100 and some advice from Water Dog put in a new LuK. It's still working great.

LuK 05-065 Clutch Kit by LuK http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_kCXvtb10Y7F1Q Also the thowout bearing spring clips to the fork. My ear broke off the pos autozone one it was plastic, causing my probs. The fork is well made and solid for what it does. I doubt it's bad. My bet is still the throwout bearing.

Pics of the pos the stealership put in compared to Luk. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/new-luk-bearing-and-carrier-481209.html

 

[Majnoon]

Also to late to edit that release spring is 5 bucks from a dealer. I would buy that too. It's cheap and may be what's causing your bearing to make noise to begin with. I would seriously bring my own parts to where your having it fixed if your going to pay for labor. They will probably appreciate it (unless it's a dealer) and you will be better off.