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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So ARB compressor is in. Originally I made a bracket out of .125 aluminum sheet. 14x15". I found out that this was too close to the carpet, causing the elbow coming off the manifold to dig into floor.

Restarted. Without removing any plugs, you have 1.75" to go up into seat between the sliders. So i made 2 x 90° breaks on each side, 1.25" deep.

Also, harness from ARB is ridiculous if you're only using compressor for airing up AND your switch will be close to compressor. I opted to mount switch on side rail of seat because I'll never be in the jeep to switch compressor on. On my TJ, I always was reaching in to console or having my girl (or passenger) turn it on.

I found a 3rd wire coming from ARB harness. It's only supposed to have a black (common ground) and purple (relay trigger). 3rd wire is red. I tested and it's tied to one of the compressor power wires! Confirmed by pulling big compressor fuses to test. I built my own harness using the same Delphi Metri Pack gear that ARB uses. Bottom pic shows what the stock harness looks like. It's a beautiful harness, it's just that I didn't need it because I'm not under the hood installation needing to run back into the cab for a switch.

BIG NOTE if you do this: you MUST re-fuse the red wire between compressor and switch because the only other fuse is a 40amp at the battery! Anyway, for the 3 pin, it's a Metri Pack 150.

Made a switch mounting plate that I have to paint black and install tomorrow.

P.S. Tech at ARB had zero idea about the red wire. I also opted out of the diodes, because that deals with switch illumination and lighting, which I'm not tied into CANBUS so I'll be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Also, managed to fix the ebrake fuzzy thing. It was stuck and loose inside the console. Plastic tabs were a little messed up. Lined everything up and JB weld'd the crap out of it. It's the little things sometimes..
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I’ve been slacking on posting..but

I just priced out an ARB locked 1-ton swap. Priced very high on everything, allowing for unseen costs in every category. I’d do 100% of the work. I can regear, I can weld bracketry. I’m at $9k including new wheels (non-beadlock) for 8 lug pattern. Already have the twin compressor! Current 4.88 rubi axles with 40k miles + 5 lug method beadlocks, I should be able to get $4k. $5k net cost.

I think I might do this. I have 7 months until I move from Phoenix to Spokane. I could definitely complete in that time.

Couple things up in the air:
3 or 4 link, with coilovers
Current long arm with coilovers
Current long arm with current king reservoirs
My estimate includes reid knuckles, high steer components and steering assist. I could just extend drag link on stock one ton steering, tap the steering box and run a ram. This is gonna depend on what kind of track bar mount height I get out of the axle swap bracketry. This is IF I go stock long arm setup.

This is gonna be a semi-daily driver that always shares time with a truck, and a motorcycle in riding months. My main focus is piece of mind reliability, simplicity, ease of finding replacement parts that should not be breaking..and the ability to venture wherever I please, without the need to crawl up cliffs. I do need the ability to go a little faster off-road (ie. coilovers). But again, I’m leaving the desert for the NW, so speed is not gonna be as necessary.

Decisions.
 

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Sounds like an intense project. Maybe a little too much for even a part time on-roader. I DD 37” Pitbulls on built D44s and it was alright but me personally I wouldn’t go any bigger then that for on-road duty. But it’s your project.
Good luck. Sounds like fun.


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I’ve been slacking on posting..but

I just priced out an ARB locked 1-ton swap. Priced very high on everything, allowing for unseen costs in every category. I’d do 100% of the work. I can regear, I can weld bracketry. I’m at $9k including new wheels (non-beadlock) for 8 lug pattern. Already have the twin compressor! Current 4.88 rubi axles with 40k miles + 5 lug method beadlocks, I should be able to get $4k. $5k net cost.

I think I might do this. I have 7 months until I move from Phoenix to Spokane. I could definitely complete in that time.

Couple things up in the air:
3 or 4 link, with coilovers
Current long arm with coilovers
Current long arm with current king reservoirs
My estimate includes reid knuckles, high steer components and steering assist. I could just extend drag link on stock one ton steering, tap the steering box and run a ram. This is gonna depend on what kind of track bar mount height I get out of the axle swap bracketry. This is IF I go stock long arm setup.

This is gonna be a semi-daily driver that always shares time with a truck, and a motorcycle in riding months. My main focus is piece of mind reliability, simplicity, ease of finding replacement parts that should not be breaking..and the ability to venture wherever I please, without the need to crawl up cliffs. I do need the ability to go a little faster off-road (ie. coilovers). But again, I’m leaving the desert for the NW, so speed is not gonna be as necessary.

Decisions.

Nice build! Speed does not seem necessary up here at all. Break over angle from all the kelly humps and willingness to have some pin striping seems more of what I have experienced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sounds like an intense project. Maybe a little too much for even a part time on-roader. I DD 37” Pitbulls on built D44s and it was alright but me personally I wouldn’t go any bigger then that for on-road duty. But it’s your project.
Good luck. Sounds like fun.


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Starting next summer, I'm gonna be living in rural Washington or Montana. I'll use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Nice build! Speed does not seem necessary up here at all. Break over angle from all the kelly humps and willingness to have some pin striping seems more of what I have experienced.
I can't wait to move up there! My old and newer have plenty of Arizona pinstriping. I don't know if I could ever buy a nice new jeep and jack up the paint.
 

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I can't wait to move up there! My old and newer have plenty of Arizona pinstriping. I don't know if I could ever buy a nice new jeep and jack up the paint.

If you wheel, it’s a fact of life here in Southern Arizona. It’s only paint! Engines are wearing all the time, just out of sight out of mind I guess. I think the lighter colors don’t show off the pinstripes so bad, my Billet Silver at least is not bad. Wouldn’t want black though. Took my new JKU out and the first time was heartbreaking, but I got over it and it’s all good. Gotta pay-to-play as the old saying goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If you wheel, it’s a fact of life here in Southern Arizona. It’s only paint! Engines are wearing all the time, just out of sight out of mind I guess. I think the lighter colors don’t show off the pinstripes so bad, my Billet Silver at least is not bad. Wouldn’t want black though. Took my new JKU out and the first time was heartbreaking, but I got over it and it’s all good. Gotta pay-to-play as the old saying goes.
100%

If someone is worried about paint on a Jeep AND they off-road, they’re gonna be really on edge hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Sounds like an intense project. Maybe a little too much for even a part time on-roader. I DD 37” Pitbulls on built D44s and it was alright but me personally I wouldn’t go any bigger then that for on-road duty. But it’s your project.
Good luck. Sounds like fun.


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Also, swapping used 1-ton's are about the same as built D44's, once you consider selling the stock'ish D44's to recoup money. Even for just running 37's, even more piece of mind with 1-tons. My Dana 44 build for my TJ was actually a little more than a 1-ton would have been, as I paid a bit much for the donor Rubicon axles..

D44 trusses, front and rear chromoly shafts, stronger lockers than stock, regear, big brake kit, etc. That will stack up just as much as a used 1-ton build. Whether someone does the work for you, or yourself. Same relative difference.

With the 1-tons, stock brakes are basically a big brake kit. Stock axles are incredibly strong.

It's not as silly of an idea as most people think. Even 35's send an incredible amount of force back into the jeep.
 

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Did you plan on 40s to compensate for the loss of ground clearance with the big axles?
Buddy and I were gonna do some D60/14 bolt builds but up here not really worth it for what we do. Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.


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One tons have advantages even with 37s, larger R&P gears, very thick tubes, big brakes, free float. For me it was mainly about peace of mind because I am solo a lot.
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Did you plan on 40s to compensate for the loss of ground clearance with the big axles?
Buddy and I were gonna do some D60/14 bolt builds but up here not really worth it for what we do. Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.
So I’m throwing the shave idea around. You only lose 2” of clearance. I’ll probably just do the shave. The kit is pretty expensive because you need a special diff cover. Gotta turn and take some material off the gear though. Turning the gear can be done on its own in a vice with a wheel, but I’ll probably just have it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So just bought some headlights on Black Friday sale. Morimoto Bi-LED projectors. Been looking at them since before I bought the JK. “Bi” means there’s a solenoid operated cutoff bar that moves up (optically drops) to reveal the full spectrum high beam. I installed their brand HID on 2 vehicles, so I’m pretty familiar with their brand.

SUPER7: MORIMOTO BI-LED
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Finally dropped on a roof rack as well. I need to get this Jeep sorted for trips. I leave the big rear seat down for the dog, so adventure space is more limited and I have to keep everything from sliding forward. Then once I move to Spokane, I’ll have my sister and her boyfriend on trips and have even less space. I have no tire carrier yet (Gen Right when I get it) so no place to put gas can. Back fills up quickly. My storage is 2 part project. I’m gonna fab up my own cargo basket and bracketry, then a roof rack.

Originally was looking at Frontrunner. Then AEV, Rhino and Maximus 3. Maximus 3 is by far the cleanest look and lowest profile. Ladder was cool, but I’ll need to build my own due to rear armor coming almost all the way up to hard top. Honestly, I came back to Frontrunner. Talked to people at all the companies. Frontrunner offers the most accessories, though I can mostly fab my own. It’s the bulkiest but it’s also just built the best. Roof rack ties in the roll bars in 4 spots + A-pillars. I went full size because better to have the space and not use it. Once I mount, I’m making a nice attached awning. Also gonna be adding some hinge steps. Pics and install to follow.

JEEP WRANGLER JKU 4 DOOR (2007-2018) EXTREME ROOF RACK KIT - BY FRONT RUNNER

Smittybilt Atlas Door Steps
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Got my Morimoto Super 7 Bi-LED’s. They actually came assembled from Retrofit Source, which usually costs $100. It’s not a big deal as it’s all machine screws and gaskets, no butyl rubber necessary. Masking off was nearly impossible, so I made cardboard rings with a piece of Saran Wrap. I’ll take better pics once paint cures.

I found basically perfect color to match my paint, Rustoleum Universal Paint + Primer in Dark Steel. This paint is amazing, but the can leaked immediately. Nitrile gloves and acetone between each coat will be required. Make sure you’re in an area where over spray doesn’t matter. Glitter floats through the air. It looked like a stripper exploded.

I went with semi-gloss clear coat to protect the paint job. I was gonna go satin but that’s basically matte. Again, I needed to try to match custom paint on the Jeep.

Color came out really nice. I also did the trim rings that hold headlight housings in. I wanted same color, as trim rings are faded stainless.

I may be unpinning the anti-flicker harness as wires are just exposed and may need a little loom and shrink tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Lights are in. Hi beams don’t work. It’s the inline anti-flicker harness. I might go with an HID harness, that way the lights have direct fused power and ground and the factory plug merely acts as a relay trigger. They’re aimed and fit nicely with no trimming. For now, transformers/ballast (or LED equivalent) are mounted with 2-sided tape lol. I’ll be on the phone with Retrofit Source. I’m sure they’ll do the right thing, they always do.

Light output is nice, but it’s just not as good as HID. It goes down the road where I need it, lateral wash is not as wide as I’d like. Color temp is nice. Again, nothing as warm and bright as 4300k HID. The look is cool for me. Very Transformer. Could not be happing with the color and clear coat sheen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Started Frontrunner full rack install. Rack rides on rear roll bar at the angle down, middle roll bar right in middle of passenger area, then the a-pillar/windshield corners.

So basically you loosely install rear most brackets loosely, then “push” bracket up to the roof by hand, mark holes, and drill. 4 holes each side. Said to use a 6mm bit. I used a 15/64 because it’s only 2/1000’s smaller. The sole purpose of these smaller holes is to put the foot rail on top, using 4 bolts to basically center one side of foot rail, then line up foot rail parallel with mounding of hard topand using as a template, mark the 4 holes and drill down.

Now you have 16 small holes. You then use a 7/8 hole saw. I have a Milwaukee Hole Dozer kit. Nice and easy. The aluminum spacers that go between roll bar mounts and foot rail are .750. I was thinking about using a 3/4” hole saw and I even talked to Frontrunner’s main installer. He said it could probably work, but the whole system is designed to settle in, be retightened, etc. I didn’t want to reinvent their wheel, so I went with 7/8” holes. Girlfriend helped with a shop vac while drilling. I could have easily rigged up with some bungees if I was on my own though.

I used blue tape. I started all holes with a very small pilot bit. Brackets/feet all line up really nice with
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
First pic is rear roll bar clamps. You can see the overlap. Super secure.
Second is up close of middle roll bar foot. Uses a capture nut and a bolt that goes thru random hole in roll bar. It’s sets on roll bar in a seemingly random cut out in padding that seems like Mopar made for this setup...
Third pic. Far out pic of middle foot.
4th pic is far out of rear roll bar clamp.
5th is rear foot attached to rear clamp
 

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