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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I this morning I took off the top and cranked my 06 TJ with 79k only to hear a terrible sound coming from the engine. I popped the hood and could clearly tell it was coming from the Oil Pump Distributor Assembly.

A quick google search revealed that this is a common problem with the 05-06 TJ's.

I called my local stealership an have ordered a new assembly for $189. I have an appt to have it replaced on Tuesday.

My dealership is about 8 miles from the house, should I have it towed? Will I screw up the jeep driving it there?
 

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Cancel your order with the dealer as the part he's going to install will have the same crappy design as the one that just failed. By a Dorman Camshaft Synchronizer (aka OPDA) instead . It's a super easy job to do yourself. Good videos available on Youtube. You just use your existing OPDA to line up cylinder 1 to Top Dead Center, then pull the OPDA and install the new one, rotate the housing until it shows TDC and you are done. Takes about 20- 30 minutes max.

I bought my Dorman unit (part number 689-201) from Rock Auto for $78.89 plus shipping a few months ago.
 

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X2 on that. Replaced the o-ring seal on it and ended up crackin old one from tightening it too much. Just match it up the way it looks Followin the button orientation inside the distributor housing that way it goes in easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
10-4 guys, I have found enough online to do this myself. Being that I don't have any oil pressure, my jeep isn't moving until I get this done.
 

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You don't have any oil pressure? The OPDA will generally squeal long before anything involving the oil pump stops working....
 

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I just replaced mine, made a few squeaks on a cold start. Removed it to find minor wear on OPDA gears, cam gear looked fine. But the OPDA was definitely stiff to turn. My Jeep had 60,000 miles.

I removed all plugs (and replaced since I had them out) and then turned the engine on the crankshaft balancer nut (3/4 inch) until the timing mark on said balancer was exactly in alignment with the pointer on the cover. You MUST turn only in the direction of rotation. If you go past the mark, go all the way around and try again. You can see the mark without removing the serpentine belt by having a helper (your wife) use an inspection mirror and coach you exactly to the mark--EXACTLY.

At this point remove the cover from the new OPDA and drop an allen wrench through the hole in the rotor and the hole in the OPDA base. Yes, it has a silly plastic pin, use an allen wrench instead. Drop the new OPDA into the block and try to get a 4 to 5 o'clock alignment with the sensor position. Keep the rotor pinned, do NOT turn engine, until the OPDA is all the way in and lightly torqued down with the hold down bolt.

Clear all tools - especially the allen wrench in the OPDA rotor!!!!!!!! Disconnect battery and allow to sit for a bit, turn key to start and hold, turn on light switch, turn everything off, reconnect battery.

Start engine and allow to warm up to 160 plus degrees so the computers go into close loop mode. If no CIL, good to go. Finish torquing the hold down screw.

There is a paper gasket, right or wrong, I used a dab of Permatex Ultra Gray gasket sealer.

I bought the (improved) Dorman unit, not the crappy OEM version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just replaced mine, made a few squeaks on a cold start. Removed it to find minor wear on OPDA gears, cam gear looked fine. But the OPDA was definitely stiff to turn. My Jeep had 60,000 miles. I removed all plugs (and replaced since I had them out) and then turned the engine on the crankshaft balancer nut (3/4 inch) until the timing mark on said balancer was exactly in alignment with the pointer on the cover. You MUST turn only in the direction of rotation. If you go past the mark, go all the way around and try again. You can see the mark without removing the serpentine belt by having a helper (your wife) use an inspection mirror and coach you exactly to the mark--EXACTLY. At this point remove the cover from the new OPDA and drop an allen wrench through the hole in the rotor and the hole in the OPDA base. Yes, it has a silly plastic pin, use an allen wrench instead. Drop the new OPDA into the block and try to get a 4 to 5 o'clock alignment with the sensor position. Keep the rotor pinned, do NOT turn engine, until the OPDA is all the way in and lightly torqued down with the hold down bolt. Clear all tools - especially the allen wrench in the OPDA rotor!!!!!!!! Disconnect battery and allow to sit for a bit, turn key to start and hold, turn on light switch, turn everything off, reconnect battery. Start engine and allow to warm up to 160 plus degrees so the computers go into close loop mode. If no CIL, good to go. Finish torquing the hold down screw. There is a paper gasket, right or wrong, I used a dab of Permatex Ultra Gray gasket sealer. I bought the (improved) Dorman unit, not the crappy OEM version.
Did mine this weekend as well. Just lined up the holes in the ODPA, swapped out the old with the new in the same position. Started right up, and now 165 miles later, no codes, no worries.

Easy job and thanks to the guys here it saved me hundreds from the stealership.
 

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Did mine this weekend as well. Just lined up the holes in the ODPA, swapped out the old with the new in the same position. Started right up, and now 165 miles later, no codes, no worries.

Easy job and thanks to the guys here it saved me hundreds from the stealership.
What error code did you have that prompted you to replace the OPDA?
 

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I replaced my OEM ODPA around 130K (surprised it lasted this long) in my 05 rubicon. Easy enough job with all the videos and info on the web. I used the Dorman unit since from what I read it was clearly the better of the three main choices (OEM, Crown, and Dorman). I was hearing some squeel mainly in colder weather, but it was more of a preventive than corrective issue for my Jeep (I guess I got lucky), my cam shaft gear showed average wear nothing close to being shredded or missing teeth, and the OEM ODPA gear wasn't worn very bad. After about 3000 miles with the Dorman unit installed, I just removed it today to check any wear, the camshaft looked the same as it had prior, the ODPA gear showed minor wear (I'm no expert mechanic but I'd say it's average break in wear) there was clearly oil being sucked up to the ODPA bearing which was a big issue in the OEM design (clearly fixed with Dorman's model), and no squeeling since. Plenty of oil on my camshaft, oil pressure is fine, no metal or shards in the pan. I also replaced my rear main seal and dropped the pan about 1000 miles ago, there was no metal or objects of any type in the pan, minimal goop, and nothing stuck in the oil pump. From what I've read, it's a good idea to pull the ODPA roughly every 10,000 miles and just give it a look, since the Dorman has a lifetime warranty, it's not a hassle to replace it again. From what I've gathered, my Jeep seems to be a solid one, I've spoken with another friend who has an 06 that did not squeel, about 65000 miles, a CEL came on and about 3 min later the engine seized up, no loss of oil pressure he said, it just shut off engine was done for. Once he tore it down, the oil pump obviously failed, the OEM ODPA was the culprit, but it was odd how he didn't even see a loss in pressure prior to the engine seizing up. Something to keep an eye on for all of us. If this is the weakest link in our 05-06 Jeeps....I'll still take em any day over the JK.
 

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The oil pressure "gauge" in the '05 and '06 is nothing but an idiot light. It only takes something around 5 PSI to close the switch and the computer moves the gauge to mid-range.

So, I'm not sure it's going to give you much of a warning.
 

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Crown makes an opda too which also has an oil groove in it as well. Not sure if the dorman has this feature as well but either way im going with the crown.
 
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