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Well, now you get to replace the pinion seal.
 

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first get some brake cleaner and spray it off to see exactly where the seepage is coming from.

if its between the metal flange and the diff housing run a thin bead of rtv and forget about it.

if its leaking around the flange shaft where it inserts into the seal (rubber portion) - take it back and have them check the seal
 

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first get some brake cleaner and spray it off to see exactly where the seepage is coming from.

if its between the metal flange and the diff housing run a thin bead of rtv and forget about it.

if its leaking around the flange shaft where it inserts into the seal (rubber portion) - take it back and have them check the seal
agree, just make sure it isn't residual first.

It is a PITA to replace the seal, well not that part, but retorquing everything is a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
first get some brake cleaner and spray it off to see exactly where the seepage is coming from.

if its between the metal flange and the diff housing run a thin bead of rtv and forget about it.

if its leaking around the flange shaft
where it inserts into the seal (rubber portion) - take it back and have them check the seal

Ok. Thank you. Ill do that tomorrow morning. Thx for the fast response
 

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If the torque on the nut is not correct it can cause pinion bearing failure down the road and that will lock up the front diff, flat bed toe truck time.
 

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No, the torque on the nut that holds the yoke for the DS at the diff.
 

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This should be done by a mechanic that knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thats what i plan to do. But i would like to have an idea so i cant take it to somewhere other than the dealer.
 

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Unless you installed a crush sleeve eliminator when you re-geared, then the correct way to replace the seal involves re-setting the pinion bearing preload. While it can be done DIY, it may be best to leave it to a professional.

Here are the steps for the D30 front axle from the 2014 FSM:

REMOVAL


  1. With transmission in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.
  2. Mark propeller shaft, pinion flange and pinion shaft for installation reference.
  3. Remove propeller shaft.
  4. Remove brake calipers to prevent drag.
  5. Rotate pinion gear three or four times and verify it rotates smoothly.
  6. Record pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2) for installation reference.
  7. Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Wrench C-3281 (2) and remove pinion nut.
  8. Mark a reference line across the pinion shaft and flange for installation reference.
  9. Remove pinion flange (1) with Puller C-452 (2).
  10. Remove seal with a seal puller.


INSTALLATION


  1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal. Install seal with Handle C-4171 (1) and Installer 8681 (2).
  2. Place pinion flange on the pinion shaft with reference marks aligned.
  3. Install flange (1) with Installer 8112 (2) and Cup 8109 .
  4. Install new pinion nut.
  5. Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Wrench C-3281 (2) and tighten pinion nut to 217 N·m (160 ft. lbs.).
  6. Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate is recorded reading plus 0.56 N·m (5 in. lbs.). If torque to rotate is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until torque to rotate is achieved. CAUTION:If maximum tightening torque of 271 N·m (200 ft. lbs.) is reached before torque to rotate is achieved, the collapsible spacer may have been damaged. Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. Failure to follow these instruction may result in damage.
  7. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
  8. Install brake calipers.
  9. Check and add gear lubricant to axle if necessary.
 
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