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First post, stoked to have u guys as a ref. Left luxury cars and trucks for a 2014 jks and i love it.

My ears are ringing like crazy bc ive made a real mess and my horn goes off every time i open the door.

Been working on changing out stock bulbs to clean white leds inside and out.. I buy them from superbright leds and very carefully make sure every bulb im replacing is the right fit before i even order..

So far and in chronological order starting from first installs to where i am now and the PROBLEM:

Dome lights. Reverse lights without load resistors. Turn signal lights that double function as parking lights with load resistors.

So far with these bulbs installed, no problems at all..

Then the fun began..

I cut up some small led circuit looking bulbs from pep boys and retro'd into my footwell lights, i changed entry only bulb not footwell "running light" *there r two bulbs in 14 jk footwell, one that comes on with dome im referring to as footwell "entry" light and a second, dimmer light that is "running" and on whenever the headlights are on.*. I clipped off the old circuit board-looking bulb from the harness and wired to pep boys made in china bulb. I did not use load resistors.

So far, no horn/steering wheel issues..

Then i took three weatherproof led accent lights to create ground lighting for the exterior, one under each door and one at rear. I carefully mounted, insulated, and ran wires all to below the passenger footwell, where i connected the 3 pos together and 3 neg together and ran one wire up through the drain plug and tapped into the dome light and ground to 10mm bolt next to it.. Still no problems and my ground lights worked great at night.. No load resistor on this install either..

No problems thus far, everything working great, my ground lights are dimming on and off with dome when open door like a charm..

Here is where the fun begins..

I put one little led into my license plate frame and it turned on great.. The next day driving to work, i noticed my steering wheel volume controls et al were not working.. Then i noticed horn wasn't working either.. Thought nothing of it and was going to hit up jeep on there warranty..

Then, a few days later, i notice my newly installed ground-light cutting out, shut off car and waited for exhaust to cool down before i could get under the car to realize i didnt secure wire above heat shield from exhaust heat that melted the wire <-- duhh-- so i just unplugged the footwell light harnesses in hopes that was causing the steering wheel controls to stop working..

I put key back in ignition and my horn went off, like someone was holding it down and it wouldnt stop. Nothing was pushing on it and no ghosts, closing door, turning car on off, locking and unlocking made no diff it just kept on steadily blowing.. i was working on finding its fuses to pull them out to shut the horn up before i woke up my entire condo complex, when all of a sudden the horn stopped.. Id say 30-60 seconds after it started..

It hit me like a ton of bricks, my led bulbs are causing this..

I plugged the footwell lights back in and boom, the horn blowing issue stopped. Open door, key in ignition, no horn blowing, but horn still not working HOWEVER now my steering wheel controls are working and have been ever since without fail.

Next attempt was to unwire the ground lights.. Still no horn blowing, but steering wheel controls working but still no horn working when i push on it.

I called superbright leds that i bought all of the bulbs except for the footwell entry lights and asked for help.. They werent too sure and hadnt heard of this prob on jk..

They suggested i start unplugging all leds and plugging stocks back in until it stops giving me either no horn or ghost horn-blow..

I havent done that because i dont see what that achieves.. Ive read as much as possible and can gather that because i changed the current draw, the computer is getting screwy..

Bring in the load resistors..

Now from day one of the turn signal/parking light install i had the load resistors on bc they came with them.. But now i was realizing i needed to balance out the other bulbs, but no one could tell me which ones to put resistors on specifically.. I ordered four resistors and started with the reverse lights bc they are DOT etc..


The ear ringing begins..

Tonight I installed resistor to each reverse light, put horn fuses back in and opened door, boom horn blowing away, took horn fuses out for silence.

Next move, take apart license plate housing and install resistor to license plate bulb power and ground.. Did this and and opened door to test controls and BOOM horn blowing uncontrollably again. Took out fuses to make it stop.

Im sitting on a milk crate with my ears ringing typing this wishing i just went with a new range rover.

Please someone tell me that i can keep led lights on the jk inside and out and that this problem can be resolved.. If you can give me a pointer on how to achieve this as efficiently as possible, it would be much appreciated..

Im sorry i wrote so much, but this is how my mind works..

Thank you for any consideration you can give in advance.. This is my first post, and i hope its not my last.. Id really like to be ripping around the sierra nevadas this year in my jks with some 35s and working interior/exterior led lights..
 

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Interesting problem. I've replaced the dome lights and headlights with led on my 2012 JKUR. It does not have the footwell lights. I've never had or heard of a problem like this. Sounds like you got a wire somewhere crossed up. Good luck
 

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The Jeep runs on a CANbus system, so when you start adding LEDs and resistors into the circuitry without taking the entire electrical architecture, you create havoc.

See here: CAN bus - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Working backwards, take out what you installed until the vehicle works correctly as designed. Watch for anomalies because some may pop up in systems that aren't often used - ABS, SRS, Traction control, or other such systems.

If you have a background in electrical/electronics/computer science, you can teach yourself the CANbus system and properly engineer a system. If you are just a "plug and play" person, you are going to have to teach yourself the system to make it work, pay someone who knows the system to engineer a fix, or give up on the idea of all LED.

Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Jeep runs on a CANbus system, so when you start adding LEDs and resistors into the circuitry without taking the entire electrical architecture, you create havoc. See here: CAN bus - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Working backwards, take out what you installed until the vehicle works correctly as designed. Watch for anomalies because some may pop up in systems that aren't often used - ABS, SRS, Traction control, or other such systems. If you have a background in electrical/electronics/computer science, you can teach yourself the CANbus system and properly engineer a system. If you are just a "plug and play" person, you are going to have to teach yourself the system to make it work, pay someone who knows the system to engineer a fix, or give up on the idea of all LED. Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
Thanks, no background in this at all. Guys at superbrightleds.com just point to their disclaimer page and walk away with your money.

I dont even know where to begin with finding someone, im weary of dealership as im presume they will blame for problem and charge me their ridiculous rates and as far as someone independent, i live in los angeles, most shops see someone like me coming and their pupils turn to dollar signs. Id rather learn it than be ripped off.. Once i take out what's been installed and if/when i catch an anomaly, what do i do? I've added load resistors and the problem still exists. Im changing front flasher resistor from 25/25 to a 6/50 hoping the added resistance will settle it. Is there something more than the resistors i could utilize to balance out the problem?


Someone suggested doing a soft reset by unplugging pos terminal on batt and holding to negative to reset comp with the revised current draw. Sounds risky.. Thoughts?

Can anyone recommend a local in la that would know the system and not rip me off?
 

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The touching of pos to neg battery cable is a hard reset procedure.
Have you tried removing leds one at a time to isolate the problem?

☞Sent from here☜
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No matter what i do with resistors and unplugging, if the horn fuses are in, as soon as i unlock car or open door the horn starts blowing as soon as the dome light is triggered. It shuts off when dome light dims.. If that suggests anything to anyone..
 

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The touching of pos to neg battery cable is a hard reset procedure. Have you tried removing leds one at a time to isolate the problem? ☞Sent from here☜
I will do it, ive been reluctant because i dont see what it achieves. I want a fix, not my old bulbs.. I will start now and report back with results.. Ill go one at a time and check each time for horn blowing/functioning and steering control functions..

Thanku. I feel like such a helpless child, you guys be willing to help is really awesome. I wish their were more online communities like this in life..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No matter what i do with resistors and unplugging, if the horn fuses are in, as soon as i unlock car or open door the horn starts blowing as soon as the dome light is triggered. It shuts off when dome light dims.. If that suggests anything to anyone..
Based on the above observation and baseballfanz suggestion, i popped the dome lights and boom, the horn stopped blowing with the opening and closing of door and key in and on, lock and unlock.. Steering controls still the same: horn not functioning when pushed, but steering wheel controls volume/track/phone et al are working..

The only other lights i have running off of the dome light control is the replaced footwell lights, below is a pi of what i removed from the factory, it is an led already correct? So by replacing the below factory circuit board looking led cheaply with the bulb from pep boys, it should be the same low current led draw correct? Or am i wrong on this?

image-913170372.jpg



image-1160632132.jpg
 

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Did you splice anything under or behind the dash? Where did you draw your power from?
I didnt splice, but carefully razored protective coating off of white with yellow stripe dome light wire in passenger footwell to attach the ground lights. They worked great until i installed the license plate frame light.. Thats when the problems arose.. Currently and through most of the troubleshooting process, those ground lights are unhooked from that dome light wire and rhe 10mm ground bolt next to it in the passenger footwell.. But now that horn blow on door open has stopped with taking out dome leds.. I wonder if this razored dome light wire for my (currently unhooked) groundlight creation..

I really want them to work though, ground lights are a really nice feature to have.. Do i need a load resistor here?
 

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Based on the above observation and baseballfanz suggestion, i popped the dome lights and boom, the horn stopped blowing with the opening and closing of door and key in and on, lock and unlock.. Steering controls still the same: horn not functioning when pushed, but steering wheel controls volume/track/phone et al are working.. The only other lights i have running off of the dome light control is the replaced footwell lights, below is a pi of what i removed from the factory, it is an led already correct? So by replacing the below factory circuit board looking led cheaply with the bulb from pep boys, it should be the same low current led draw correct? Or am i wrong on this?
I know this is an old post....but I swap LED's out.
 

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Thanks for gettin back, im still workin on stuff.. Very interested in what you did/used.. I hve successfully gotten most of it to work. I took it to the dealer eventually after stripping everything off the jeep and they diagnosed a problem with the alarm. They replaced it and it was all workig well. Slowly and carefully started re-led ing everything and im good so far.. My footwells are still stock amber and map lifghts in rearview still amber.. Id like to replace them.. How did u do it? Did u change the led chip? Or the entire "bord" alltogether??


Here's where im at, just added puddle lights..
 

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Thanks for gettin back, im still workin on stuff.. Very interested in what you did/used.. I hve successfully gotten most of it to work. I took it to the dealer eventually after stripping everything off the jeep and they diagnosed a problem with the alarm. They replaced it and it was all workig well. Slowly and carefully started re-led ing everything and im good so far.. My footwells are still stock amber and map lifghts in rearview still amber.. Id like to replace them.. How did u do it? Did u change the led chip? Or the entire "bord" alltogether?? Here's where im at, just added puddle lights..
The boards for the foot wells and the mirror yes, take PLCC2 LED's. The mirror I wouldn't recommend. It's pretty involved, I bought a spare just to rip apart. However, I've charged a few people now who've been interested.

Glad you're sorted out. In the future make sure your LED replacement bulbs are 100% CANBUS safe. I have some good ones that I got from Amazon that work great and are really bright.
 

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Yup the ol canbus system. A real pain in the ass. Makes electrical mods difficult. Everything I add is wired by itself. I don't touch the canbus system for this exact reason. At least they fixed the alarm for you and didn't say it was your fault.
 

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Yup the ol canbus system. A real pain in the ass. Makes electrical mods difficult. Everything I add is wired by itself. I don't touch the canbus system for this exact reason. At least they fixed the alarm for you and didn't say it was your fault.
Yeah, got lucky on that.. Im new to wire something by itself like you do? Or could you just give me a search term to look it up and read elsewhere? "How to wire car lights directly to car battery" or something?
 

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It's really simple actually. All you need is a relay and a couple of inline fuses rated for the wiring you are using. Just google amps for whatever gauge you are using. Eg, amps needed for 12g wire.
And follow this picture and you are good to go. The relay prevents any parasitic drains. So I put them on every lights I add, just in case.
 

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It's really simple actually. All you need is a relay and a couple of inline fuses rated for the wiring you are using. Just google amps for whatever gauge you are using. Eg, amps needed for 12g wire. And follow this picture and you are good to go. The relay prevents any parasitic drains. So I put them on every lights I add, just in case.
And the negative for the light doesn't need to go all the way back to the battery, just ground it to the frame somewhere. Same for the relay. I just ground the relay to the screw I use to mount the relay itself with.
 
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