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Discussion Starter #1
Opinions....

Trying to decide my best options to lift a 2017 4 door. Will probably go with 33" tires.

What's the maximum lift I can achieve while minimizing the amount of modifications to accommodate it? For example, keeping factory brake lines. Stuff like that.


* Had a 4" lift on my previous 4 door with 35"s. Horrible highway road handling. Don't want to do that again.

* Drove a friends 3.25 lift last night with 35", thought that was nice and tight.

Thanks
 

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If you seriously want to stay with 33s just put in a 1 1/4” TF body lift. No suspension worries at all. If you find that not enough you can add a 2.5” lift for a total of 3.75” lift.


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Discussion Starter #3
If you seriously want to stay with 33s just put in a 1 1/4” TF body lift. No suspension worries at all. If you find that not enough you can add a 2.5” lift for a total of 3.75” lift.


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Interesting. I had not even considered a body lift.

So... If my goal is to get some additional height with minimum suspension intervention, would it make sense to do the body lift in combination with a basic leveling kit?
If I'm understanding this correctly, that would give me 2" of lift in the front, 1" of lift in the back with the leveling kit, plus the 1 1/4" lift on the body, for a total overall lift of 3 1/4" , AND with minimal impact on the suspension. Is that correct?
Sounds perfect to me. Any downsides to doing this combination?
 

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Opinions....

Trying to decide my best options to lift a 2017 4 door. Will probably go with 33" tires.

What's the maximum lift I can achieve while minimizing the amount of modifications to accommodate it? For example, keeping factory brake lines. Stuff like that.


* Had a 4" lift on my previous 4 door with 35"s. Horrible highway road handling. Don't want to do that again.

* Drove a friends 3.25 lift last night with 35", thought that was nice and tight.

Thanks
I have 2.5 MC springs and a 1” front spacer.

Curious what we’re the spring and shocks and track bars and what control arms were on those 2 rigs that made the difference in handeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have 2.5 MC springs and a 1” front spacer.

Curious what we’re the spring and shocks and track bars and what control arms were on those 2 rigs that made the difference in handeling.
Wish I knew. The 4" lift I had was on a 2010 4 door. Bumps in the road would cause it to damn near go in a ditch. I had two different shops inspect it. Both said everything was in good shape, so I assumed it was just how a 4" lift handled. I bought the Jeep with the lift already installed (that Jeep was totaled last week due to someone hitting me, which is why I'm getting another one).

The 3.25 lift I drove was a friends. A 2014 4 door. It drove entirely differently. Nice and tight. Specifically, he had a Rough Country 3.25 kit.

Question for you... So you have a 1" front spacer, and no spacers on the rear?
Also, can you be more specific about the 2.5 MC springs. Is that a kit, or just springs? Sorry for the dumb questions. Did you have to modify brake lines or other things in that setup? Do you have a picture? Thanks
 

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I had the Terra flex spacer kit on my 2015 JKU for almost three years, no issues, 255/85/16 tires. Thought it drove fine/good enough until...........

RK1.5 springs, adjustable swaybar disco's, adjustable LCA's in the front, extended fixed also work, adjustable front track bar and the rear track bar relocation bracket, (2 hole Tera flex). Rancho RS5000X shocks, 29/30. Brake line relocation brackets (probably not needed, cheep insurance). Front axle is centered, back axle is a little over corrected from the Terra flex bracket,no biggie but a shorter than stock rear track bar will center it.

You can get away with not doing the track bar stuff but the axles will be slightly off center.

A good compromise might be spacer level kit and your choice extended length lca's, some new shocks.

Drives like a dream now. Hardly any body Roll in corners. Went to Colorado last month, 80 mph on Interstate 70 no problem.

Obviously quite a bit more money that a level kit but so much better and well worth the dollars.
 

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Interesting. I had not even considered a body lift.



So... If my goal is to get some additional height with minimum suspension intervention, would it make sense to do the body lift in combination with a basic leveling kit?

If I'm understanding this correctly, that would give me 2" of lift in the front, 1" of lift in the back with the leveling kit, plus the 1 1/4" lift on the body, for a total overall lift of 3 1/4" , AND with minimal impact on the suspension. Is that correct?

Sounds perfect to me. Any downsides to doing this combination?


That is correct.


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I've got the TF 1.5" spacers and I love them. I went so far as to install the xrc flares and im running 34" ko2s under them. My only 'complaint' is that the stock springs settle quite a bit with heavy bumpers.

For 33s I would highly recommend the spacer lift.
 

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You don't need a lift with 33" tires, unless you need/want more clearance. If just a bit clearance and level, then spacer kit. Easy if you like your current suspension feel.
Or go with a Rancho or Mopar 2" light. Rancho will be inexpensive and smile or some say better than stock.

I have the AEV 2.5" with 35's (Hard 33's for a month) and my JKU handles like a sports SUV on the road. Did a 150 mile drive on why last night doing 80 and it's smooth as butter. Take exit ramps on Turnpike at 50-55 is easy.

Again, just a little clearance and level from end? Spacer lift will work great.
 

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If you don’t want to do spacers, you could do the TF Performance Leveling Kit.


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Leveling kit vs. 2.5" lift vs 3.25 Lift..

I read there may be other modifications necessary when installing the body lift. Radiator shrouds, or engine mounts?

Will those mod be necessary with a 1" or 1.5" body lift?


No other mods at all. Just taller body mounts. Unless you have a standard transmission.


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Why do you want a lift? Just to run 33's? Or actual 4 wheeling? What type of 4 wheeling? Crawling rocks? Mud? Overland?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why do you want a lift? Just to run 33's? Or actual 4 wheeling? What type of 4 wheeling? Crawling rocks? Mud? Overland?
Mostly for cosmetic reasons. Just want a beefier look. I may take it off road or on the beach occasionally, but 98% of my driving will be on the road.

I'm planning on some pretty radical changes with respect to the look of the Jeep. Something along the lines of a rat rod/ steampunk look. Looking into adding aircraft studs on the doors and front end. Possibly a rust/patina paint finish. Just did something like this to my Harley and it turned out great. But I need a larger, beefier starting point to get the look I want. I might go with 35" tires if I can get a good highway ride. I just have some pretty awful experiences with the 2010 I previously had, which had 4" lift and 35's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sounding to me like a 1.5" body lift and a leveling kit will do the job with the least amount of interference with the standard suspension. I will probably go with the performance leveling kit. I already have a set of 1.5" spacers that came off my previous Jeep. That one was originally lifted 5.5" (4" lift + 1.5" spacers). Since I already have those I could also use them with the leveling kit, right?
Appreciate all the help. The mechanics of it all isn't my forte'
 

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Mostly for cosmetic reasons. Just want a beefier look. I may take it off road or on the beach occasionally, but 98% of my driving will be on the road.

I'm planning on some pretty radical changes with respect to the look of the Jeep. Something along the lines of a rat rod/ steampunk look. Looking into adding aircraft studs on the doors and front end. Possibly a rust/patina paint finish. Just did something like this to my Harley and it turned out great. But I need a larger, beefier starting point to get the look I want. I might go with 35" tires if I can get a good highway ride. I just have some pretty awful experiences with the 2010 I previously had, which had 4" lift and 35's.
If you want the rat rod look forget a lift or a leveling kit. Go with flat fenders and actually lower it a bit. With flat fenders you can run 35's with the stock suspension. Lower it an inch in the front 2 inches in the back and you have a rat rod look.
 

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Lifts are the sum of all parts. Many "kits" don't have everything they should to properly run. Adjustable control arms or relocation brackets, adjustable HD track bars, HD tie-rod, HD drag link, gearing, and tuner.


If I was building for 98% street, I would do a leveling kit or a 2" spring lift, and Metalcloak or Poison Spyder fenders. These fenders will allow you to run 35's on stock suspension. And they also wheel pretty good like that too other than lack of ground clearance.
 

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Leveling kit vs. 2.5" lift vs 3.25 Lift..

Lifts are the sum of all parts. Many "kits" don't have everything they should to properly run. Adjustable control arms or relocation brackets, adjustable HD track bars, HD tie-rod, HD drag link, gearing, and tuner.





If I was building for 98% street, I would do a leveling kit or a 2" spring lift, and Metalcloak or Poison Spyder fenders. These fenders will allow you to run 35's on stock suspension. And they also wheel pretty good like that too other than lack of ground clearance.


What are your thoughts on AEV’s 2” spacer lift. Would you need anything else? https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/0-2in-lifts/n0221000ab-aev-spacer-suspension-kit-2in?gclid=CjwKCAjw0oveBRAmEiwAzf6_rMxm6khfAueNX1c5P83gN4y1QiFSH8NDEuSWDGGfhUHJFyJLtHKAbhoCmEcQAvD_BwE




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