Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had my 2015 Rubicon Unlimited. It's currently stock and riding trails in Arizona has taught me that I need more ground clearance or skid plates. My budget is limited and I want to get the most bang for my bucks. Can someone suggest brands that offer durability and value? Also, what order should I do this in? I currently have stock wheels and tires. When the tires wear out, I'll be looking at slightly larger tires. I am a full time RVer so the Jeep is also the family car and I need to be able to tow it behind the RV.

I already installed a Rock Hard front bumper with towbar tabs so I can flat tow it. Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
A lift kit will not give you more ground clearance, bigger tires will. A lift is needed to clear those bigger tires. If I were on a limited budget i would go for skid plates and rock sliders first. Then when more funds were available I'd go for a quality 2.5" lift and 35 inch tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,420 Posts
Depending on what type of wheeling you do out there you're going to want both as mentioned above. A good lift for frame clearance and skids for your under carriage. Forum user mommymallcrawler is from AZ. She does trail rides so maybe try tracking her down (perhaps post in the Arizona regional section). for some "local" advice.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts
I have had my 2015 Rubicon Unlimited. It's currently stock and riding trails in Arizona has taught me that I need more ground clearance or skid plates. My budget is limited and I want to get the most bang for my bucks. Can someone suggest brands that offer durability and value? Also, what order should I do this in? I currently have stock wheels and tires. When the tires wear out, I'll be looking at slightly larger tires. I am a full time RVer so the Jeep is also the family car and I need to be able to tow it behind the RV.

I already installed a Rock Hard front bumper with towbar tabs so I can flat tow it. Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
Depending on what type of wheeling you do out there you're going to want both as mentioned above. A good lift for frame clearance and skids for your under carriage. Forum user mommymallcrawler is from AZ. She does trail rides so maybe try tracking her down (perhaps post in the Arizona regional section). for some "local" advice.
I thought I heard my name lol.

If you will be wheeling in Arizona, skid plates are your best friend. I went with the full Rock Hard belly skid setup. Also recommend switching out the factory tinfoil crossmember for something with beef on it - I went with Poison Spyder. You also want real differential covers or differential sliders. I love my Rough Country differential sliders. Another piece of low hanging fruit is your lower control arms. I skidded my fronts, and replaced the whole mount with a welded one that is skidded on my rears. The Rubicon rails are ok to bring your rig down on or crunch small rocks under. But you eventually want a real rock slider. I am thinking I will go with Shrockworks.

As far as lift, realize this: no matter how big of a tire and how high of a lift, there will always be trail rocks or whatever that are bigger. There is no "you will clear everything" height. Most folks we run with that drive limos (4 doors) go usually for 35s on a 3.5 lift. (2.5 inches to clear your tires, the other inch to get that huge belly up a bit). Rock Krawler and Metalcloak get a lot of love out here from the JK crowd. Playing on rocks in Arizona and doing bigger tires, you should truss and gusset your axles (Artec does a great setup). Bigger tires will also mean a regear. When your lift goes on, make sure you get your rear axle side trackbar bracket WELDED on, not bolted on. I have the Synergy weld on, and it will probably outlive my axle lol.

What I would do if I were you and you dont want to do everything at once and arent doing tires now is to do a small puck lift (once you start adding armor, it will weight you down a little) and get the belly armor and crossmember on. Rock sliders if you can swing it.

When you are ready for tires, do the lift, gears and truss/gussets.

Realize a 4 door will clunk stuff - it is the nature of the big belly and breakover angles that come with it. Make armor priority one.

Skid plate inspection photo lol! I have a 2 door.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK. So it seems that I should start with skid plates and save the lift kit (and all the other stuff) for the new tires. I took a look at the Rock Hard skid plate system, which appears to total out at around $1200. Since that's more than I can currently spend, is there a logical order to buying skid plates? Where should I start? Should I replace the factory cross member first? I think there are some shiny spots on it from my last trail run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,912 Posts
I would disagree (slightly) based on your budget. If you can't afford the $1,200.00 skids, you should probably not be wheeling in a manner that makes them valuable. - Keep it mild and pick your lines carefully.

You have stock Rubi skids and sliders, use them gently, they will get you by and through quite a bit of moderate wheeling. You will learn where your weak points are and can beef up accordingly.

A 2.5" puck lift will get your belly up just a bit more without affecting anything else. RC stage II kit is complete at $180.00. Add wheel spacers and you could get by with 35's or ditch the pucks if you decide to build more substantial.

My biggest suggestion: Don't make mods based on opinions made on the forum - base them on your use and needs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
I have the Rock Hard front skid and evap skid. Don't remember how much it was but well worth it. A good place to start if you don't want to go with the full package.

Bob
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,238 Posts
With an automatic, start with the oil skid - you gave ZERO factory skid there.

Also talk to some WF vendors and local offroad shops - there are discounts to be had. I did not pay anywhere near full retail for my setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Keep in mind that if you are not planing on going crazy with a lift most mid arm kits do not interfere with most skid systems. So you really have free range of whats available.

RK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Check out the EVO protek skid kit. It's inexpensive and covers most all of the important stuff. I'm running it now and like it a lot. As my build progresses and I start to tackle more difficult trails, I will upgrade to a more complete skid system like rock hard, river raider, etc.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top