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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again WF.

Thank you all very much for your help last week on the front bumper issue. The rampage bumper should be in tomorrow, and I am looking forward to throwing it on. Ill get some pictures up asap.

So over the weekend I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine. We were chatting about the bumper to be over beer and cigars when he asked me to hang on and made a phone call...

The offer has been made for a new procomp 4" lift, installed, for a grand. I cant say for sure which one it is, and please forgive me for it, my knowledge in this is limited.

He advised that his mechanic friend bought it brand new, and waited to install it untill he collected enough money to put 35's on his jeep and has since lost his job. He also advised that its the "second level" of pro comp lifts, and normally sells installed for about 1600.

Now the complication... I am currently on the stock 31's. Come next month when the tax retrun hits, I am more than confident I can go out and get new wheels and tires, but untill then it isnt an option for me.

How terrible is my 2012 JKU Rubi going to look with a 4" lift and stock 31s? Is that procomp even going to be installable?

I come seeking knowledge again. I learned the hard way that coming here first saves me weeks of stress and furstration. Thanks again guys.
 

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here's my 2 cents for what it is worth...

first, what gears do you have on the rubicon? 4.10 or 3.73? the 4.10's work pretty well with the 35"s. some guys are running 35"s with the 3.73's but it bogs down a bit more. if you have the 3.73's you may have to look at regearing which costs some extra money.

second, i think it is going to look bad with a 4" lift, but if its a few months, you can deal with it as the final result will be pretty dang sweet.

third, 4" is a lot of lift. you will need to relocate your exhaust (aFe Ypipe) so you can clear your front drive shaft. with the extra lift the drive shaft drops down lower and doesn't clear the exhaust cross over.

fourth, you will probably have to look at replacing your front drive shaft at some point because with that much lift you are really going to stress your joints.

given your situation, i would do a bit more research and holdoff until you have researched what all you will need to do to run a lift. also, picking the actual lift is kind of a big deal. they all have different characteristics. some better off road. some better on road. also, by waiting it will allow you to have the cash to do it all in one swoop.
 

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by the way...i live in nashville as well, if you want to talk jeeps anytime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Much appreciated. To answer the gearing question, I am running the 4.10. Bought it that way so when I did eventually lift it and put larger tires under it I wouldnt have to fight a gearing battle.

Ill press him for more information about the drive shafts and exhaust. I took for granted that he is a professional and included at least the pipe in the quote, I'd like to know that for sure.
 

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The Bad Guy
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What are all the details? A 4" lift on a 2012 could involve issues with the drive shaft because of the exhaust crossover. Pro Comp is not a top of the line lift. It is the house brand for 4WD Parts.
 

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I have the PC Stage II lift with MX6 shocks. I get a JE Reel 1350 front DS. If you get a good replacement front DS, you don't have to mess with the exhaust. It will clear. You will do well with the 4.10. I have the 3.73s on my '12 JKUR, and they have never bogged at any speed. If you get that lift installed correctly, it will drive great.
 

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I'd pass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I really appreciate the information I get here. Thank you all very much. 4" is a little higher than I wanted to go initially. I had always planned to go with a 3 or a 3.5 tops and a good set of 35. Ill request the lowdown on the lift in the morning and post more about it then. I find it hard to believe he would sell me a problem, we see each other all the time. It was mentioned above that Procomp is a middle of the road brand. What is considered better? I spent a few hours looking up reviews and they are positive. I also attempted to find an image of a JKU with a 4" lift with 31's. No luck, I take that as it really isnt done.
 

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The Bad Guy
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JK's don't come with "stock 31's". You either have 29" tires on the 16" steel wheels or 32" tires.
 

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Hello again WF.

Thank you all very much for your help last week on the front bumper issue. The rampage bumper should be in tomorrow, and I am looking forward to throwing it on. Ill get some pictures up asap.

So over the weekend I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine. We were chatting about the bumper to be over beer and cigars when he asked me to hang on and made a phone call...

The offer has been made for a new procomp 4" lift, installed, for a grand. I cant say for sure which one it is, and please forgive me for it, my knowledge in this is limited.

He advised that his mechanic friend bought it brand new, and waited to install it untill he collected enough money to put 35's on his jeep and has since lost his job. He also advised that its the "second level" of pro comp lifts, and normally sells installed for about 1600.

Now the complication... I am currently on the stock 31's. Come next month when the tax retrun hits, I am more than confident I can go out and get new wheels and tires, but untill then it isnt an option for me.

How terrible is my 2012 JKU Rubi going to look with a 4" lift and stock 31s? Is that procomp even going to be installable?

I come seeking knowledge again. I learned the hard way that coming here first saves me weeks of stress and furstration. Thanks again guys.
I'd pass on the Pro Comp lift. If it is the Pro Comp Stage 1, the kit doesn't have anything in it to make adjustments for wheel or axle alignments. There are no adjustable control arms, adjustable trackbars, or brackets to compensate for suspension geometry changes and your Jeep will drive horribly. It will wander all over the road. If that is the basic Pro Comp stage 1 kit, it retails for about $630 and can be found on sale for less. If it is the Pro Comp Stage 2, it has some of the control arms, but they aren't adjustable and that kit sells for more than $1600 depending on the shocks you get in the kit. The Stage 2 is over priced IMO. Don't jump at what looks like a good deal that really isn't. Do your research and buy something better.

I have the PC Stage II lift with MX6 shocks. I get a JE Reel 1350 front DS. If you get a good replacement front DS, you don't have to mess with the exhaust. It will clear. You will do well with the 4.10. I have the 3.73s on my '12 JKUR, and they have never bogged at any speed. If you get that lift installed correctly, it will drive great.
Definitely nothing wrong with a JE Reel driveshaft, but you must not be doing any offroading or your MX6 shocks are not very long if you are clearing the crossover.

My 3.5" lift has so much articulation that I needed an aftermarket driveshaft and I had to address the crossover exhaust. Even with the new driveshaft, it only cleared the crossover by about 1/4" at fool droop. I used the aFe y-pipe to move the crossover. In any wierd off camber situation, the driveshaft would probably hit the crossover and I wasn't going to chance it.

I opted for the 1310 instead of a 1350 because there is less bind at the u-joints at steep angles and because it is weaker than the 1350. A 1310 u-joint should fail before something in the axle housing or transfer case breaks. The driveshaft is cheaper to fix than opening up the axle or transfer case to fix gears and/or shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You guys are great. I am not ashamed to admit that my knowledge in this field is limited. I am going to pass on this and begin the research for what I wanted to begin with. I was initially looking for something in the 3" range anyway.

That being said, any tips on where to start? I am more than willing to spend a few grand to get whats tested and reliable.

I have been doing alot of research on long arm versus short arm.

Any 2012 JKUR owners out there with reccomendations?

While this is my daily driver, I do get off the road and often. At least once a month in serious conditions and every other weekend on dirt.

As always, your help and knowledge is greatly appreciated.
 

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You guys are great. I am not ashamed to admit that my knowledge in this field is limited. I am going to pass on this and begin the research for what I wanted to begin with. I was initially looking for something in the 3" range anyway.

That being said, any tips on where to start? I am more than willing to spend a few grand to get whats tested and reliable.

I have been doing alot of research on long arm versus short arm.

Any 2012 JKUR owners out there with reccomendations?

While this is my daily driver, I do get off the road and often. At least once a month in serious conditions and every other weekend on dirt.

As always, your help and knowledge is greatly appreciated.
You won't see a benefit of a long arm suspension with a 3" lift and long arms cost a lot more in labor to install. You will have to cut off all of the stock control arm brackets and weld on new brackets. With a 3.5" lift, I considered a long arm, but I'm happy with the mid arm setup on my 2012 JKU Rubicon.

Remember that the higher you lift the Jeep, the more parts that need to be replaced to keep the suspension geometry aligned correctly and to keep things like the driveshafts from hitting things or prematurely failing.

There are a lot of good lifts, but there are also a lot of cheap ones. When comparing kits, make sure that you do a full comparison because no kit includes everything that you need. Some kits have shocks and bumpstops included, while other kits allow you to choose for yourself what shocks and bumpstops to get. Some kits include braided stainless brake lines, while other kits don't provide anything. Some kits don't have control arms or adjustable trackbars, but those are only needed when the lift gets higher. When comparing kit prices, make sure they have the same list of parts to get a better idea if the price is a good deal or not.

Depending on how high you lift your Jeep, you will need to replace your front driveshaft and possibly make adjustments to your crossover exhaust pipe for clearance. I went with Rock Krawler and I don't have any complaints. I have this 3.5" kit: Rock Krawler Catalog, but it isn't necessary if all you want to do is clear a 35" tire. RK makes a great kit that works the same in a 2.5" kit and doesn't require as much labor or modification: Rock Krawler Catalog. It is also a good starting point if you want to get more serious about offroading because it can be easily upgraded. I'm sure others will comment about manufacturers that they have personal experience with. Good luck on your decision.
 

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What if I was to purchase something like:

Full-Traction Suspension Jeep JK Wrangler 3.0" "Ultimate" Lift System for Jeep JK Wrangler 4-Door Model=

What extra would I need to purchase?
Full Traction makes great stuff. For that lift, you'll have to buy the shocks, which – I think – come separately. I could be wrong there. If the shocks are 27.5" or more, you'll need new driveshafts.

Everything else you need comes with the kit. I'd advise you to call Full Traction at (661) 398-9585 and talk to Chris or Steve. Tell them what you want to do with your Jeep, what size tires you wanna run, etc, and they'll give you solid advice.
 

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Carolyn is liking her Full Traction lift.

I'd stick to 2.5". FT, AEV, Rock Krawler, or OME with other bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Full Traction makes great stuff. For that lift, you'll have to buy the shocks, which – I think – come separately. I could be wrong there. If the shocks are 27.5" or more, you'll need new driveshafts.

Everything else you need comes with the kit. I'd advise you to call Full Traction at (661) 398-9585 and talk to Chris or Steve. Tell them what you want to do with your Jeep, what size tires you wanna run, etc, and they'll give you solid advice.
I called and spoke with Chris. He advised that I would need a new front drive shaft and shocks.

Now all I have to do is convince my wife that me spending $1998 on the kit, plus a few hundred on the shocks, and ??? on the drive shaft is a good idea. :)
 
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