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Discussion Starter #1
The PO installed oversized lift shackles (about 7inches from bolt to bolt). I want to get new ones and I have a few questions.

* Is a shackle a shackle regardless of brand?
* Straight or Boomerang?
* What other specs should I pay close attention to?

Thanks everyone for the insight! Trying to do this build on a somewhat of a budget but want to ensure a good and safe ride.
 

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Ive got a set of crown greaseable shackles on the way. I prefer no lift shackles and essentially the smaller the shackle, the better maybe even safer honestly. If I were you I'd either go the same route or OEM. I'll update this thread once I install my new crowns.
 

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Stock length shackles for the win...

What springs are you running?

Boomerangs are required un the rear for taller flexier springs to prevent binding...
Ex, my RE 2.5 springs were fine w stock shackles but my RE 4.5 springs require 1" longer than stock shackles w a boomerang in back.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am looking at reversing all of the suspension/ lift components from the PO. Body lift, shackles, and springs.

I am looking at RE 2.5" kit with either a 1" body lift or 1" shackle lift.

I think currently I am sitting on a 3" body lift and 1 1/2 or 2" shackle lift with dead flat springs on 31s. Id like to get 3 1/2 - 4" overall lift with a larger tire. Can't go too much higher or I'm not making it into my garage.
 

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So this boils down to what you use your jeep for. If its mostly highway miles then I recommend 2.5" with a 1" body on stock shackles. This will allow you to clear up to 33s and still be very user friendly. I used to run a 4" suspension lift and it did feel a little squirly over some bumps.
 

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what are stock shackle measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what are stock shackle measurements.
Pretty sure it’s 4” hole to hole. Mine currently measure 7”.... YIKES! Not sure what the PO was thinking with this thing.

I am starting to look into the 1” body lift. It looks like my Jeep currently has a 2” kit. It would be a little more budget friendly to do body over shackle lift too.

If I do a 1” lift, will my plastic “Jeep” bumper cover still bulge?
 

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What bulge are you talking about?
 

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Body lift doesn't affect the bumpers
 

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This bulge:
With the 1" BL there will be a 1" gap of space between the frame/bumper and the bottom of the grill, not sure about the bulge it looks like the plastic just needs to be re-compressed down and secured.
 

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Well, I'm a little lost on this one. I have a 1" BL and my plastic fits flat right on the front grill bracket. You sure you don't already have a lift creating the "Bulge"?
 

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^Missed that part, 1" Would be flat, Stock should make it 1"below then.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I'm a little lost on this one. I have a 1" BL and my plastic fits flat right on the front grill bracket. You sure you don't already have a lift creating the "Bulge"?
Oh good! I do not like the bulge.

I know RC makes a 1” bl kit but who else would you guys recommend? For 1” I probably don’t need to extend too much except drop the radiator.
 

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I would just google for the cheapest bl w nylon blocks... done
If you snag a zone 1" motor mount lift you won't need to relocate your radiator either.

Edit, well you will have to move it back to the stock location
 

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Oh good! I do not like the bulge.

I know RC makes a 1” bl kit but who else would you guys recommend? For 1” I probably don’t need to extend too much except drop the radiator.

I have a DayStar 1" Poly BL and would recommend that. Also I ran without the 1" MML (from Brown Dog which I also recommend) for almost 3 years without doing anything to the radiator or the fan-shroud, no issues at all. Installing a 1" MML after a 1" BL will get everything lined back up the way it would be in a stock setup.

Not sure about your engine size I don't think you mentioned it, but if you're running the 2.5 Brown Dog offers a replacement for the aluminum engine-to-mount bracket that is prone to fatigue and failure in our 4-cylinders, which also mates up to their MML's or stock motor-mounts. The aluminum castings for that part are ticking time-bombs so if you do a MML I would definitely suggest taking that bracket off and inspecting it.
 
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