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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 JKU auto and am considering re-gearing when I get my tires (315/70R17 nitto trail grapplers). My rig came with the factory limited slip differential. I was wondering if you would do anything in regards to limited slip / locker when doing the re-gear. I don't think I want to go the route of air lockers as I don't see myself needing that kind of set up and costs for my uses.

My rig is my daily driver and doesn't get a bunch of time off-road (blasphemy I know LOL). Would you just leave the factory limited slip in or would you look at another option? If you suggest something else, please let me know specifics i.e. manu. and product. Thanks.
 

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I'd leave the factory LSD. If you rarely get off road you likely don't even need that.... on second thought, you should go open diff and send me your old... used up.. LSD.
 

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I have a 2013 JKU auto and am considering re-gearing when I get my tires (315/70R17 nitto trail grapplers). My rig came with the factory limited slip differential. I was wondering if you would do anything in regards to limited slip / locker when doing the re-gear. I don't think I want to go the route of air lockers as I don't see myself needing that kind of set up and costs for my uses.

My rig is my daily driver and doesn't get a bunch of time off-road (blasphemy I know LOL). Would you just leave the factory limited slip in or would you look at another option? If you suggest something else, please let me know specifics i.e. manu. and product. Thanks.
The factory LSD is pretty good. If your doing light off road stuff I wouldnt even worry abut changing it. Just regear.

A selectable locker would be a waste if your never going to use it.
 

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For your set up I agree with everyone else, leave it alone.

Not worth the money for what you do.

Your set up has huge capability off road now if you ever need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wanted to bring this thread back up since I now have my rig kind of set up in regards to tires, armor, etc. Just to re-cap... I have a 2013 JKU auto and am considering locker/limited slip options for when I re-gear. I was wondering what you would go with considering my information. i.e. leave factory rear LSD in, change out rear LSD to a trutrac, change our rear to locker....and for the front - selectable locker (electric or air), trutrac, etc. etc.?

My rig and info:
- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited D30 front axle with 3:73 gears and factory limited slip differential in rear D44. May change to 4:56 gears and possibly change out front D30 to PR44.
- 2.5 Rock Krawler Max Travel Kit
- Currently running Goodear Duratrac 315/70R17. May go to Nitto Trail Grapplers 35x12.50 in the future (heavier tire).

- My rig is my daily drive and see a lot of and mostly pavement time. Mostly day to day in town driving and a few road trips from time to time. However, I would like to get it where it's good for that but can handle some decent off-roading as well. Terrain around here is mostly rolling hills, muddy trails with ruts, however, we do have an off-road park about 2hrs away that offers some rocks.

So, given my rig, driving, and terrain information. What would you do in regards to lockers/LSD when I re-gear? Front - nothing, trutrac, E-locker, air locker...Rear - factory lsd, trutrac, e-locker, air locker, other. Please let me know your thoughts, opinions, and please be specific on what you recommend and why. Thanks and I really appreciate you help, opnions and recommendations.
 

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Since you are already going to be opening the carrier: for long-distance on-pavement travel through all-weather driving, with occasional offroading capability, you may consider replacing the factory clutch-actuated LSD with a Detroit TrueTrac.

Your JK will get through pretty much anything with it and outlast the factory LSD.

Just my two pinions,

Aldo
 

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Subscribed. I'm in the same boat (basically the same setup too) but about 6 months away from doing a regear to 4.56.
 

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Since you are already going to be opening the carrier: for long-distance on-pavement travel through all-weather driving, with occasional offroading capability, you may consider replacing the factory clutch-actuated LSD with a Detroit TrueTrac.

Your JK will get through pretty much anything with it and outlast the factory LSD.

Just my two pinions,

Aldo
I put TrueTracs in the front and rear of my Cummins/Dodge Ram (used to carry my truck camper and tow the Jeep into the Sierra backcountry.) Much better diffs than the factory clutch-actuated LSD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Based upon my driving info, would you possibly go with a trutrac in the rear and then an e-locker for the front? Thoughts on this option?
 

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I put TrueTracs in the front and rear of my Cummins/Dodge Ram (used to carry my truck camper and tow the Jeep into the Sierra backcountry.) Much better diffs than the factory clutch-actuated LSD.
Did you feel the front TrueTrac impacting handling in any way?
 

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im in the exact same boat....3.73, auto,jku, 315 duratracs, rear lsd. Im thinking i might stick with the 3.73 and add a front Arb/e locker...im running stock bumpers/skid so the 3.73 seem good still
 

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Did you feel the front TrueTrac impacting handling in any way?
No, not at all...

I also installed Yukon's hub conversion kit...free wheeling/locking hub kit. Mostly the hubs are free, but I do lock them once a month or so and no handling issues at all.
 

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I would go with the TrueTrac in the rear and leave the front alone. For your described uses, the TT and built-in BLD will be more than enough to get you where you want to go.

If you want more than a gear-driven LSD, another solution less expensive than selectable lockers would be a Detroit locker in the rear. For just a little more money than the TT, you can have a true bulletproof locker that is on all the time, but allows for different wheel speeds when needed as when turning on dry pavement.... It does this with a few (I consider) minor handling quirks on-road. I ran this on my F150 FX-4 daily driver for years and was perfectly OK with it... Others find the Detroit's quirks unacceptable. Search on "Detroit Locker" and you will find plenty of arguments.

Either way, I would get away from the clutch LSDs since you're going to be in there anyways..... On an off-road vehicle, those things are worthless since they wear out way too fast and then you just have an open diff.
 

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Do you drive this thing in the snow? I wouldn't run an auto locker in the rear if you see snow. Selectable or LSD only.

Honestly I probably wouldn't do anything to it unless you just have to spend the money. The BLD is a good system and lockers mainly help with hardcore rock crawling and mud which it sounds like you won't really be doing anyway.
 

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I have a suggestion.......... Since you already have LSD in the rear, it may not be such a bad idea to just add a front locker for emergency situations when you absolutely have to have extra traction all around.. The two front wheels locked up and traveling in straight line can get you out of a jam for sure.. Just something to thing about..
 

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Based upon my driving info, would you possibly go with a trutrac in the rear and then an e-locker for the front? Thoughts on this option?
I think this is an excellent setup. I like the idea that the front will not be locked unless you force it. Locking the front axle has significant impact on steering.
 

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Here's your answer.

I have a suggestion.......... Since you already have LSD in the rear, it may not be such a bad idea to just add a front locker for emergency situations when you absolutely have to have extra traction all around.. The two front wheels locked up and traveling in straight line can get you out of a jam for sure.. Just something to thing about..
What he said! +1 Unlocked it is the same as you have now, locked it gives you more options to get somewhere.:beerdrinking:
 

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So will a rear TT with BLD save on brake wear vs open BLD? I've noticed my rear brakes wear a lot faster on my JK than was the case on my old TJ. May not be a big deal with stock brakes, but I'm thinking about putting in a progrip brake upgrade and that kit is pricey.
 

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So will a rear TT with BLD save on brake wear vs open BLD? I've noticed my rear brakes wear a lot faster on my JK than was the case on my old TJ. May not be a big deal with stock brakes, but I'm thinking about putting in a progrip brake upgrade and that kit is pricey.
That's a Dodge problem as of late. They share the same rears as the Caravan which are known to go through rear pads in under 15-20k km. I have had cars go well over 100k km on rears.

Service them frequently and always use your ebrake so they don't seize.

I service mine every 5-7k km. And so far wearing good. But right from the factory within 5k km my pads wear getting stuck in the brackets already and need a good lube.
 

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I ended up putting Truetracs both front and rear in mine. I am currently running 305/70/17 Terra Grapplers with 4:10 gears. Works great on road. It's also worked great in the little off-roading I have done. The great thing is when on road in 2wd it's feels just like it did with the factory open diff.
 
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