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My 06 LJ Rubicon is running factory air lockers and the weak point was the overpriced compressors, replaced it with a manifold run of my CO2 tank. 140 k and no problems.
I'll keep that in mind in case my factory compressor goes down. I'm planning on installing onboard air soon so it's good to know I can just use that with the Rubicon lockers.
 

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My YJ LS build has a Ford 9” with a Detroit locker in the rear. I rarely notice it’s there. Sometimes at low speeds I hear it click a little when turning. That’s it. I’ll probably got with DL in my next build too.
 

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Ox has its problems, I ran them in my CJ when they first came out and they were a pain in the ass to keep the cables adjusted. The cable was the weak link and you had to make sure of the routing.
Nice to have some conformation of my fears about the cables i figured that would happen. So far the air shift cover is working nice i haven't had any problems out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
My YJ LS build has a Ford 9” with a Detroit locker in the rear. I rarely notice it’s there. Sometimes at low speeds I hear it click a little when turning. That’s it. I’ll probably got with DL in my next build too.
Is it your DD or an off road only.
 

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I have had the same ARB lockers in my JK for almost ten years. I have had the air line melt twice. Once when a cheap zip tie broke and the line rested against the exhaust, the second time was just the other day while doing some welding and I had a big oops.
Started a small fire by the seatbelt retractor and it melted the plastic cover, the seatbelt and my air line. Yep big oops. But I repaired the first one with parts from a hardware store and will be doing the second one the same way. Not a big problem really.
Everything else has been outstanding.
 
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I put e-lockers in both of my axles this past winter (D30 front, D44 rear). Install was pretty painless overall. I agree with Jerry's thoughts on routing of the lines - I ran the electric lines very carefully up out of the way. The only place they could tear out would be right at the axle and then only if I got a branch stuck up through there just right. I don't wheel much in brushy areas where I'd have to drive over down trees or thick brush, so I'm not very worried about it. I've used them this summer in Colorado on Black Bear Pass and Pearl Pass (both ways on Black Bear - my jeep clubs runs it backwards once each year) They locked/unlocked at the push of a switch and they seemed very adequately strong for my needs. The only problem I had was with the packaging by Eaton - their packaging stinks. There are tabs on the electro-magnet to prevent it from spinning. The packaging didn't hold the locker tightly in one position - no foam or cardboard or anything to keep it from flopping around. One tab was broken off of the D30 locker. A new locker was sent out and it, too, had a broken tab. I called Eaton and they sent out a kit that had the electro-magnet ring and the bearing. I replace the ring, installed and have had no further problems. I not really a fan of running air lines (I use a portable compressor for refilling tires) and am really happy with the way the e-lockers are working.
 

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Ive had ARBs for 5 years now. Ive only had two issues. One--The pressure switch failed so the compressor wouldnt run. $7 later it was fixed. Second--After the 4th regear my seal housing oring was letting air escape and blowing out of the breather tube. I cant even blame ARB for that because the seal housing has been in/out so many times.

The air lines are not some cheap tubing. They're made from nylon which has excellent strength and abrasion resistance. Most everyone I wheel with has ARB and I've yet to see an air line break.
 

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Not to throw another option in the mix, but.... any one have experience with Lokkas (Australian product I found for my backup Nissan Xterra 4x4). I know they make mechanical lockers for Dana 30 diffs.
No whining now...
 
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