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Just installed LoD's on my 2015 JKUR. The instructions on LoD's website are essentially complete, but I wanted to add some observations while the install in fresh in my aching muscles. I did this myself, so it is possible to do it with zero help. Total time, including painting the pinch seams and fixing an install mistake was 7 hours.

1) Having a floor jack and a relatively level area with 4-5' of clearance on the side of the Jeep you are working on is key. A 3-4' long 2x6 helps as well to support the rail on the jack.

2) You need to drill and tap 14 holes--I strongly suggest having two taps, and two of the correct size drills. My first drill bit got dull, and my first tap was looking pretty worn (though it was still working). At less than $6 for the drill and tap kit, this seems like good insurance.

3) Marking the hole locations is hard, because you use the slider as a template (so you put it on and secure it using two crossmember bolts) and there isn't much clearance. I ended up using a 90 degree angle scratch awl to define the circular hole. Then pulled off the slider and used a standard center punch and hammer to mark the center.

4) LoD's instructions are not specific, but I assume that the crossmember mounting tabs go under the mounts (as opposed to between the mounts and the frame). Doing it the wrong way is both harder and lowers the trans, skid plate, etc. I did one side wrong and it bothered me so I pulled it off, remounted it, checked the hole alignment and ended up having to enlarged two holes in the slider itself (which involved pulling it off two more times to get it right).

5) In case you ding anything up have some flat black spray pain (I used a Rustoleum rust encapsulator).

6) Most of the holes drilled into the frame are horizontal, but two on each side are vertical (you have to come from the bottom). I'm not a weak guy, but I ended up making my life easier by using a floor jack to press the drill up, which sped things up (though to do this without jacking up your rig you need a short bodied drill).

7) LoD says not to re-use the Rubi rock rails with these sliders. In looking, I don't think they would fit. I assumed the uncovered pinch seem wouldn't bother me--I was wrong. So it may be worth having some painter's tape, some newspaper, and a can of black Plastidip. It only took two coats, was quick, and looks dramatically better (to my eye).

8) I had three holes where I couldn't get the tap started. In one, a dremel tool with a small grinding stone "reset" the hole and fixed things. The other two were vertical holes, and I used the floor jack to "force" the tap into the hole to get things started.

9) Having some type of a trouble or work light helps immensely.

10) Having ratcheting box end wrenches, and a good socket set with some extensions and a universal joint will also help.

11) I had kneepads on (lots of kneeling unless you have access to a lift). Made a huge difference.

I suspect you could lift the Jeep with some hoist straps and a crane with these bars--they are more than stout.
 

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Just installed LoD's on my 2015 JKUR. The instructions on LoD's website are essentially complete, but I wanted to add some observations while the install in fresh in my aching muscles. I did this myself, so it is possible to do it with zero help. Total time, including painting the pinch seams and fixing an install mistake was 7 hours.

1) Having a floor jack and a relatively level area with 4-5' of clearance on the side of the Jeep you are working on is key. A 3-4' long 2x6 helps as well to support the rail on the jack.

2) You need to drill and tap 14 holes--I strongly suggest having two taps, and two of the correct size drills. My first drill bit got dull, and my first tap was looking pretty worn (though it was still working). At less than $6 for the drill and tap kit, this seems like good insurance.

3) Marking the hole locations is hard, because you use the slider as a template (so you put it on and secure it using two crossmember bolts) and there isn't much clearance. I ended up using a 90 degree angle scratch awl to define the circular hole. Then pulled off the slider and used a standard center punch and hammer to mark the center.

4) LoD's instructions are not specific, but I assume that the crossmember mounting tabs go under the mounts (as opposed to between the mounts and the frame). Doing it the wrong way is both harder and lowers the trans, skid plate, etc. I did one side wrong and it bothered me so I pulled it off, remounted it, checked the hole alignment and ended up having to enlarged two holes in the slider itself (which involved pulling it off two more times to get it right).

5) In case you ding anything up have some flat black spray pain (I used a Rustoleum rust encapsulator).

6) Most of the holes drilled into the frame are horizontal, but two on each side are vertical (you have to come from the bottom). I'm not a weak guy, but I ended up making my life easier by using a floor jack to press the drill up, which sped things up (though to do this without jacking up your rig you need a short bodied drill).

7) LoD says not to re-use the Rubi rock rails with these sliders. In looking, I don't think they would fit. I assumed the uncovered pinch seem wouldn't bother me--I was wrong. So it may be worth having some painter's tape, some newspaper, and a can of black Plastidip. It only took two coats, was quick, and looks dramatically better (to my eye).

8) I had three holes where I couldn't get the tap started. In one, a dremel tool with a small grinding stone "reset" the hole and fixed things. The other two were vertical holes, and I used the floor jack to "force" the tap into the hole to get things started.

9) Having some type of a trouble or work light helps immensely.

10) Having ratcheting box end wrenches, and a good socket set with some extensions and a universal joint will also help.

11) I had kneepads on (lots of kneeling unless you have access to a lift). Made a huge difference.

I suspect you could lift the Jeep with some hoist straps and a crane with these bars--they are more than stout.
Thanks for taking the time to add. Somebody will benefit from this! I will one day!
 

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Thanks! LoD sliders will be my next purchase. How about some pictures. One question. Do the sliders stick out far enough to use as a step to help get into the cab?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There's a thread requesting pics in the general section as well. I'll post some (tomorrow I hope, though depends on how work goes), and link one to the other. But yes, the LoD sliders have top plates specifically designed to stand on, and I bought these because I needed rock (and tree) protection and my wife needed a step (and because, versus other choices these attach to the frames at 10 mounting points each side). I stood on them like I was putting something in a rack on the roof and they worked great. Having said that, they are not hugely wide, but much wider than a Rubicon HR rail.
 

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That description sounds like everything I have been looking for
 

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nice write up.. they work great, my wife also uses them as a step.
I would add getting a few smaller drill bits to work up to the size worked really good for me. I also ended up buying a high quality bit and tap after a few holes... and cutting oil... made a hugh difference..
I would agree having a floor jack is really helpful. I would also say make sure you secure the sliders as good as you can because the mounting holes don't have a lot of room for error.

I bed lined the pinch seam first.
a few pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Photos

Tried to get some photos of: the plastidipped pinch seam, the width of the LoD rail, my foot (size 10.5) on the LoD rail, and a top view of the two "steps". Hope this is useful. My foot could have gone in closer to the body (as you know the body chamfers inward to the pinch seam).
 

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OH man those are nice. I have the LoD front bumper, the LoD rear should be arriving in the next week or two. Once that is installed I will be gathering funds for these :D
 

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Finally installed the LoD sliders :D

 

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I would add getting a few smaller drill bits to work up to the size worked really good for me. I also ended up buying a high quality bit and tap after a few holes... and cutting oil... made a hugh difference..
X2. Smaller bits for the pilot holes and some cutting oil...
 

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I also installed my Lod sliders myself but, don't remember having to drill/tap 14 holes. I used jack stands to hold them in place while doing the work. I also had them custom make mine so the dimple died steps go all the way across, as in one piece from front to back. I didn't like being restricted to only being able to step only on those little spots. I also had them leave off the rear mount,it wouldn't work with my long arm suspension.I made and welded on my own. Something worth checking with them about first, before you order. Make sure they fit with your lift.
 

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4) LoD's instructions are not specific, but I assume that the crossmember mounting tabs go under the mounts (as opposed to between the mounts and the frame). Doing it the wrong way is both harder and lowers the trans, skid plate, etc. I did one side wrong and it bothered me so I pulled it off, remounted it, checked the hole alignment and ended up having to enlarged two holes in the slider itself (which involved pulling it off two more times to get it right).
I'm installing these and am not sure what he means. According to everything I have seen, the LOD brackets are on the bottom - below the factory crossmember.

I know it's an older thread and I have read several others regarding the install; however, if anyone can help with this part, it would be appreciated.
 

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Ok - anyone know what this is? Looks like a wrapped conduit, possibly wiring? The long bolt is supposed to go through the hole in the frame and attach with a large washer and nut. Wondering how much I can move the "tube", since I don't know what it is.

Also, I need to use clamps to pull the slider bracket tight too Jeep frame - I haven't read about anyone having this problem.
 

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Ok - so I figured out that the conduit is the rear brake lines, wrapped in the heat resistant material, due to nearby location of the exhaust. I won't be able to fit the lower front 4" bolt that goes through frame, since the bolt and nut would push the brake lines even closer to exhaust - or I would have to try to push the lines up about 1", which I think would bend them.

I still haven't determined on the front two LOD slider mount brackets, whether the Jeep OEM transmission skidplate crossmember tabs go between the frame and the LOD slider mount bracket, or do the skidplate crossmember tabs go under the LOD slider mount bracket (LOD mount bracket between Jeep frame and the skidplate crossmember tab)? I have proceeded with the LOD slider brackets on bottom - we'll see how it goes. The brackets are not 100%, but are pretty close. The front side is probably the worst = about 3/8" away from frame.
 

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I won't be able to fit the lower front 4" bolt that goes through frame said:
It's been a while since I installed mine but I remember having a bolt I couldn't install. I think it was the one your describing. It's done fine without it. I've beat the crap out of them without any issues. As far as where the tab goes... I can't remember. I can take a look this evening and see how I did mine.
 

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OP here. I think I gently pulled and tugged to move those lines. In terms of where the tab goes, my original post alludes to issues sorting that out. If you can take a photo of which specific area (front or back) you are questioning I can crawl under my rig tonight and shoot a photo as well.
 

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Thanks for the replies!

On the driver's side, here's photos of front and middle LOD brackets. No way I can see the 4" bolt working - it doesn't even fit on the outside because it's so close to the other bolt. 1st pic rotated, can't fix it.

Also, on pax rear bracket, I had to grind the fuel tank skid plate to allow the LOD bracket to slide in flush to frame - pic included.
 

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I would put all the LOD brackets against the frame tube. Not sure if you already drilled all the holes but it appears you did. This way if you ever change out the skid plates or need to service the transmission etc you won't have to remove the LOD rails.
 

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JKJeepit - yes, that's a good point and I thought of it afterwards. But, as you point out, too late now. I did use anti-seize on the bolts, so removing should be somewhat easier than the full install was.

Surprising that the instructions on their website show it with LOD brackets below skip plate tabs.
 

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I did mine that way too and it is not a problem removing the original skid as you just have to loosen up the bolts you don't have to remove the LoD sliders to do that just loosen the bolts.
 
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