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So I've been seeing a lot of threads about new clutches and clutch wear and tear. So my question, as a new manual driver, how do I preserve and get the most of my clutch? From the obvious things to not so obvious. Any tidbit is appreciated.
 

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Primarily use the brakes instead of down shifting when you're coming to a stop. That will increase the life of the clutch. It's easier and less expensive to replace brake pads.
 

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Stay out of deep water and mud.

Don't sit at stoplights in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in.

Use a winch or come-along to pull yourself or someone else out.

What else,oh yeah.

Number one rule to preserving the life of your clutch.........................
Don't EVER let a teenager drive your Jeep!
 

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So I've been seeing a lot of threads about new clutches and clutch wear and tear. So my question, as a new manual driver, how do I preserve and get the most of my clutch? From the obvious things to not so obvious. Any tidbit is appreciated.
1) Dont ride your clutch.
2) Get good at revmatching
3) Do not leave the clutch depressed at a light or intersection
4) Minimize clutch slip unless absolutely necessary
 

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Burnouts.

A good quality burnout will remove any accumulated dust, thereby improving the clutch lifespan and interestingly the overall gas mileage as well!

Gets the bugs off the windshield also, if done properly in the right wind conditions.
 

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I've heard it many time. Dont ride your clutch. What does this really mean?
More of less that you want to have you clutch fully engaged as soon as you can without jerking and jumping around. The idea is to have you foot on the peddle working it as little as possible.
 

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I've heard it many time. Dont ride your clutch. What does this really mean?
It means the point in between point A and point B...point A being the clutch completely disengaged and point B being the clutch fully engaged. You will feel the clutch slipping a little when you are in between the two points. Doing it to start from 0mph is normal (although should be minimal) but when you shift, you need to learn to go from disengaged to fully engaged without the slip in between. Takes practice.
 

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I'm not too worried about it. The vehicle I traded for my Wrangler was a 2003 Jeep Liberty that I owned since it had 7 miles on it. It went over 152,000 miles and never had any transmission/clutch work done on it.
 

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1) Dont ride your clutch.
2) Get good at revmatching
3) Do not leave the clutch depressed at a light or intersection
4) Minimize clutch slip unless absolutely necessary
I used to be able to revmatch my bmw. But the jeep im finding it very hard!
I simply dont do it anymore
 

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I used to be able to revmatch my bmw. But the jeep im finding it very hard!
I simply dont do it anymore
The pentastar is a pretty smooth and quick revving motor, shouldn't be too difficult to revmatch, although the manual is probably a lot sloppier than a BMW manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Actually I can rev match to a decent extent coming out of turns. But its not the easiest with the delay from the 3.8. Anyone have luck with heel toe downshifts?
 

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The pentastar is a pretty smooth and quick revving motor, shouldn't be too difficult to revmatch, although the manual is probably a lot sloppier than a BMW manual.
I agree, the newer jk's are kind of a pain to rev match, throttle response is slow!!! Can thank the "drive by wire" for that i guess. I rev match my srt4 every shift and drive tractor trailers so I'm no stranger to it, but in the Jeep it just feels like work and not enjoyable in my opinion
 

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Actually I can rev match to a decent extent coming out of turns. But its not the easiest with the delay from the 3.8. Anyone have luck with heel toe downshifts?
Short answer: no. But I do the same idea. Rather than hit the brake and gas at the same time like you are suggesting with the heel toe, when I need to downshift ill tap the gas. This will cause it to rev up a bit and you can get good at it and be able to rev match better. Even if you don't match exactly its better than releasing the clutch when the engine is idling
 

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I've never had a clutch go out in any of my vehicles, including my heavily modified ~500hp Mustang. (and it's still running the stock flywheel and clutch, and has been road raced multiple times!)

My secret? I don't really have one. Don't do stupid things. I don't drag race, I don't use the clutch to hold my vehicle in place on a hill, and if I am going all out, I do not slip the clutch. If I am going full throttle, I depress the clutch, shift, and then let it go. I don't "pop" it (sliding your foot off the side of the pedal and letting it snap up), I just lift my foot back up quickly and let the clutch do it's job.

Using a little bit of clutch slip going from gear to gear is fine....you're not going to accumulate enough heat to harm anything. Do whatever you need to do to make the shift smooth unless you are flooring it....what you don't want to happen is for revs to CLIMB when you are letting the clutch back out. If your RPMs go up instead of down as you release the clutch, you are using too much throttle and too little clutch. RPMs should never go up in the middle of a shift.

A previous poster said something about using brakes instead of downshifting when coming to a stop.....well, I downshift and use the brakes as little as possible in traffic, using engine braking unless I really need to slow down quickly, and it's never caused any problems. I've never even smelled clutch from my own vehicle while driving, but I do know what the smell is like, from track-days. I've done this on my current Mustang, a 2010 GTI, 2007 SX4, 98 Eclipse, 95 Mustang Cobra, 1989 IROC-Z, 89 S-10, and an 87 BroncoII, all manual, and all without issue.

Basically, as long as you get good at transitioning from gear to gear with minimal amounts of slip while avoiding lots of jerks, your clutch is going to be fine for a long long time.
 
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